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About SeeKai

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    Hero Member

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  • Location
    North-west England & occasionally Scotland
  • About
    Perpetual enquirer!
  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. They are glued shut. Get yourself some molegrips, something to grip and protect the metal parts (I used some rubber sheet) and force it open. If it's really not going try carefully heating it up a bit with a heat gun.
  2. Please keep in mind that the bodypack receiver is designed to be a mic level device. You can get it a little north of mic level but not enough (IMHO) to drive headphones to any useful level. In theory you would have to amplify the signal somehow, but that's way outside the scope of my knowledge and messing about with SMD boards is not without risk. Hope that's relevant.
  3. Avoid. Quality and longevity is nowhere near the same. You wouldn't save money by having knock off gear for your mics, recorder or timecode hardware. Same thing applies to your cables!
  4. Hi Neil, There are various methods, each to their own. But here's one that works. Turn iron up to max temp - apply a large blob of solder to the iron tip. Push the unstripped core into the blob - with the right technique and timing, the inner conductor will tin and the jacket will shrink back. Takes a bit of practice but it does work - there is a technique to it that doesn't come without a lot of practice (save your offcuts for said practicing). re: the other stuff about expensive tooling, If you meant your comment about becoming a pro wireman (as in wiring for others, not just your own stuff) it's a necessary step to buy a lot of specific, expensive tooling, often for just one purpose. You'll also have to do away with lead solder if you want to be ROHS compliant here in Europe. best of luck!
  5. PFB.00.303.CLAD32 or something to that effect, your lemo dealer should be able to correct it. I use these to build adapters all the time and they work great!
  6. Mogami 2642. 7 core plus shield. Available from HHB here in the UK, I imagine mogami website could identify your local supplier. S
  7. I just find it simpler and faster than using the little bracket included in the rean plugs, which can be a real PITA.
  8. Nice builds all - I have tried a few different methods over time but I've struggled to get the necessary weight into them - one of the benefits of the SGS lav bullet is that it's really damn heavy for it's size! Though my lighter DIY ones worked well enough I always wish they were heavier. What are your experiences?
  9. Me too! What I also really like is the ability to crimp the shield wire to the shell. Each to their own though.
  10. +1. I've been dying to see how you got on with this one. Fascinating stuff! Best, s.
  11. Terrible news! I was genuinely saddened to hear this. I'm off to watch the Doomsday Machine and his memorable standoff with Commodore Matt Decker. RIP a terrific actor and all round great guy.
  12. Those of you using lavs as the slate mic, is that including some sort of inline power supply? From memory the slate mic input is balanced and offers 12v powering (presumably phantom). I have an Me3 (me2 but with headband and gooseneck) that I'd like to repurpose as a 664 slate mic but thought that it was incompatible with the slate mic input and would need some kind of phantom - electret convertor in there somewhere... S.
  13. Hey Glen, I can service it, but it would require a return to the mothership. Similar build to the lo pro XLRs in this section. So not field serviceable sadly. But damn low profile Diane, Damn low.
  14. Thanks Robert I did read that thread as part of my research, but for some reason (which I genuinely can't really articulate - call it a gut feeling of sorts) I felt like starting a new thread.
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