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Derek H

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Everything posted by Derek H

  1. I'm sure Ron would make the cable for you. Wouldn't be too hard. you could use two pieces of round 20AWG 2-conductor cable into a single XLR4M and one TA4 on each tail. If Ron has the pins 1+2 and 3+4 wired in parallel and you're feeding two of the inputs then in theory this kind of setup would be good for 14 amps. XLR 4--pins are rated for 10A per pin btw but if he's "doubling up" the pins then you can use it for more. 7 amps is kind of a lot on it's own. How much current will this rig really be pulling? The 833 and the video monitor are probably the two main concerns. Maybe 2A each? Maybe not even that much. The wireless and icon shouldn't draw that much. I'd get some kind of meter so you have a better understanding of your actual draw. If you really do need more than 7A you may be better off with a heavier-duty cart power solution.
  2. That Wired article is clueless and reads like a paid advertisement for frame.Io. Say what you will about the usefulness of the technology (software really) it’s not going to do anything tangible to help keep crews “safe” on set. Honestly, claiming that something like this is the answer to the question of how to film safely during a pandemic is an insult. I love sound devices but I cringe at the thought of a production insisting I use a particular brand/model of anything to facilitate this kind of nonsense.
  3. I’ll note that better wrenches would have helped not scratch the case. And also I could have used a T-handle reamer to widen the holes just a hair for the switch. Ended up using a larger bit than necessary. I’ll also add I don’t think it would be hard to mount them on the front panel but chose not to. Figured you’re going to be re-patching back there anyway.
  4. Yes. Not a huge difference but the LMR240UF has a bonded foil shield in addition to the braid that makes it a little stiffer. Otherwise it’s very similar. Uses the same connectors. It’s a bit trickier to terminate because of the foil shield you kind of have to trim it back a little bit and it’s glued tight to the dielectric.
  5. That’s why my vote is for RG8X. Anything thicker is a bear to wrangle and arguably unsafe to lay down on a busy set unless you tape the crap out of it. You can deploy RG8x quickly and a good amplified antenna will overcome the loss for 120+ feet and it will work. If you need a lot more length than that then I would look for different advice. Maybe optical conversion? Don’t know?
  6. Wasn’t this already posted? RG8X would be my choice for a long run assuming you’re using a powered antenna.
  7. Thanks Larry! I’ll try to post a photo of what I end up with.
  8. A question for anyone who has done this mod. How did you attach the wires to the Venue main board? Just insert tinned wires into the existing jumper sockets? Remove the sockets and wire directly to the board? I’m thinking of using the original jumpers cut in half with wires soldered to it. Just worried about it breaking loose. Fool proof way would be to remove the sockets I guess. To further illustrate my dilemma.. the existing sockets are designed to make contact with a 0.025” square sided jumper. Not sure how reliably it would mate with a round piece of wire.
  9. Yeah no worries definitely got my money’s worth for years and then some with PAID
  10. I still use PAID but it’s pretty archaic at this point in life and buggy. The developer has basically retired and is no longer updating it or addressing crashing issues caused by Mac OS updates. I’ll still probably muddle along with it for awhile.
  11. What do you mean by as long as the impedance of the cables match the splitter? Beyond everything being 50-ohm type?
  12. I tried this with two Comteks. A BST-75 and a BST-50b using a mini circuits splitter in reverse to feed a phase right. It worked but I was using one of those channels to feed camera operators and they were getting some hits so I went with a different setup. It could Have been just random interference or not so random like wearing their receivers (PR75a) in close proximity to their various high powered wireless gear. There’s some loss (about 3dB I think with the two-way passive) so maybe that was the issue. Wasn’t able to nail it down in the time I had. The other combined channel was sending out to video village and no complaints there. I think it’s an idea worth exploring though and it seems like there could be some benefits. I would go for an active antenna combiner to eliminate the loss but finding one that works down to Comtek frequencies might be tricky. I always thought it’d be a good idea to try for a busy bag rig with camera hops and IFB transmitter/s to just combine the outbound RF and remote an antenna up to your shoulder or something and get it away from your receiver antennas. Maybe then you could just keep the whips on the receivers rather than a full antenna distro and see a similar range improvement. But a bag-friendly active antenna combiner doesn’t seem to exist.
  13. Yeah I think this is the biggest problem with dipping your toes into wireless video as a sound mixer.. the second the camera department has any issue with their wireless feeds they’re going to ask you (maybe demand) that you kill your cheap BS video transmitter because it’s causing their issue... Whether that’s actually the case or not. So you’re going to need a backup plan anyway. (BNC cable)
  14. I love the Sennheiser IEMs. Way under rated. If I could 100% trust them to get through a whole day without needing a battery change then they’d probably be my top choice. In my experience they usually make it but not always. They’re also easy to buy for under $500 most retailers will give you a discount if you’re buying a few. If anyone can make an IFB with a talkback channel built in now that would be interesting.
  15. This misses the mark for me. Here’s what I’m looking for in a next gen IFB: -under $400 per unit -survives drops - all day (14 hours) battery and ideally multi day - better audio than a comtek -some basic info on the receiver like an RF meter -wide tuning range -high power transmitter options -headphone Jack that works with standard stereo headphones
  16. Yeah I don’t really get it. The take away for me is just another reason Comteks are annoying. can you re-wire a Comtek so left/right are in phase?
  17. He’s referring to the way Lectro releases new products. Basically, without advance notice or teasers and fully formed and ready to buy/work.
  18. This is one area where I think Comteks fall short. They’re tricky to troubleshoot. If you need to problem solve random interference issues like this the receivers give you next to no info to work with. Without an external scanner it’s just a lot of guess work and trial and error.
  19. Richard, did you compare the Pearl MS8 to the MSH10?
  20. I’d love to do an AB test to listen but I’d say it’s more like great vs greater. Straight into the HM is very good if you ask me. Now if you’re talking about monitoring for the boom op then yes I’d say the mm1 is going to sound amazing compared to a comtek or even ifb.
  21. They sound better than R1a? How so?
  22. I wish it weighed less. Otherwise it’s a perfect, un-fussy plug on transmitter with very good sound quality. I have not A-B’d an HM (or other Lectro plug-on) vs the mm1 rig. I suspect it’s not a massive difference. The latter also forces you to use a cabled pole which isn’t always ideal.
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