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Derek H

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Everything posted by Derek H

  1. Reviving this thread from the archives to ask about max amp ratings of the power supplies you’re all using. I currently have a rig that’s powered by a pretty beefy 19amp supply and was told by someone at Bioenno that I should not connect one of their batteries in parallel with this power supply because without any current limiting in place the battery would try to draw too much. Could it be that those of you who are running a float charge arrangement with a LiFEPO4 battery in parallel are sort of fudging it a bit by having your cart draw down the available amperage of the supply so that the remaining capacity available to the battery conveniently falls within its charging specs? The Bioenno rep I talked to was pretty against this kind of float charge scheme at least while using a power supply with a lot of capacity. He recommended I put a West Mountain Radio “epicPWR gate” in between the PSU and supply to provide a constant current charging. This makes sense but it’s an additional box to make space for and I don’t really want to get involved with Anderson power poles. We have enough connectors already.
  2. Yup. I haven’t used it personally but I think this wire from pacer would be a good choice because it’s made for boats so should be high strand count, flexible and tinned. I’m about to order some 16 gauge boat cable to make heavier 4-pin battery and power supply cables with.
  3. They have 20 awg as well. I don’t think you’re going to find 4-core less than 6mm thick overall. https://www.pacergroup.net/unshielded-multi-conductor-cable-20-awg/ According to this chart even 22awg should be good for up to 7 amps for our purposes. How much juice do you need for this application? https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
  4. How about this? https://www.pacergroup.net/unshielded-multi-conductor-cable-22-awg/
  5. I did, sorry, busy week! I’ll send a response this morning.
  6. Anyone know the ideal mate for an R1a? For example, Sennheiser offers some headsets with the option of 100 or 600 ohms. Which will sounds better with lower noise floor with an R1a? Thanks! d
  7. I’ll add that no, for this particular cart I don’t need it to fly as checked baggage. I just want it to break down to just a few pieces so it can be transported in a car and quickly put back together again. We’ll see if I can pull that off. if I need a cart that I can check in on a flight I’d take my Kartmaster though I’ve never found a good way to bring the shelves along. It’s too bad that Remin never made a version 2.0 of the Kartmaster because it’s a great design and built like a tank. Mine is second hand (thanks Alex) and still going strong. I wish it were not quite as long, a little taller, had a better shelf with a lip all around and bigger wheels. But still, it’s my go-to corporate job cart when it’s just me and I need to bring in c-stands, blankets, etc and it’s all nice office building floors
  8. Hi indiefilm, Yes, 80/20s milling fees and connector prices are high ($3.70 per hole for drilling and counter sunk panel holes!). But what are you going to do? I don’t own the tools or have the space to do that work myself. I could get my hand drill and wood working clamps out and make the best of it but it would take ages and it would be a mess. And my kids would learn too many new words... Even with all that the total price of this cart should be slightly under an off-the-shelf magliner or backstage camera cart and hopefully suit my needs better and allow mods easier. I’d be curious to see your designs but sounds like you’re not ready to release it into the wild quite yet. DM me if you like. Or email at hansonsoundcorp at gmail.
  9. Will do, it will be a few weeks for sure. Thanks everyone.
  10. I was going to use end fasteners for securing a top shelf but then decided I wanted to be able to change the height of the top shelf and have it be continuously variable so I’m going with the central connector instead for that. Actually two per corner.
  11. Yeah it’s a toss up. I think the guy at Comtek is pretty committed to the EXACT best case recommendation for the design spec of the unit so probably a steady 12 Volts is best. I think if you’re running a Meon or PSC system at 13.8 or whatever I wouldn’t worry too much I mean hundreds of mixers are using Comtek transmitters powered this way without any issues. Maybe the unit dies after 25 years instead of 30 but would that really matter to you? I would be a little more concerned if your DC setup is running a higher voltage like an NP1 based system would and that’s where you might want a regulator. Of course, that’s also the situation where you want it more compact and adding more crap to the rig is pretty unwelcome. I’m totally speculating here and there are plenty of mixers who power these with NP1s without any problems so it’s really up to you. I have done it on occasion as well. I find it a little irritating that Comtek doesn’t back this statement up with a little more factual info. When I pressed them on it the reaction I got was sort of “ no, it needs 12 volts, it’ll keep up with a higher voltage for awhile but...” but no real explanation of what might happen or when. Check out the brand Samlex if you do go down the regulator path. They make fully enclosed power supplies and regulators and etc that are popular with HAMs so noise specs and EMI should be good. I wouldn’t trust amazon cheapies. They also have isolated models which could help if you were having a ground loop issue somewhere which I currently am with my video monitor. They have a unit about the same size as a BST75 that will accept any input voltage we would use and output 12.5 @ 8amps or something. I haven’t used one but thought about buying one and putting a hotbox on the output side to power any fussy 12v stuff on the cart. It’s kind of too bad the off-the-shelf power distros from RA and PSC don’t include a few regulated and isolated outputs.
  12. Thanks, I’m going to use central connectors for a portion of my design so I’ll let you know how they are.
  13. So after pouring over countless T-slot cart designs I’m about to put in my own order with 80/20 for a custom cut and milled kit to build a smallish, collapsible follow cart. Wondering if any of you who have done the deep dive into extruded aluminum T-slot contraptions would have any general advice? Things to watch out for or design mistakes to avoid? Connectors you hated? Some specific questions I have.. how does the anodized black framing stand up to wear and tear? Anyone use the “Central connector”? Thanks! Derek
  14. Probably have to send it in. You could ask them if they’d send you a new switch and advice on repairing it yourself but I wouldn’t count on that. Lectro would do everything they could to help you without having to send it in but Sound Devices is not the same. Maybe years ago.. I blew something in my 664’s headphone amp last year (long story) and I’m pretty sure it cost like $400. They basically have a standard bench fee to do just about anything on your gear. They’re one of the more expensive companies when it comes to repairs.
  15. Hi Klaus, Thanks for your responses! By stats I meant closed length, extended length and weight, number of sections. It’s nice to see it all in one place. Say you’re looking at which pole to order and you want to compare quickly with what you already own. Not a big deal. I can do the same thing with a pad of paper and a few clicks. Derek
  16. Looking forward to trying one! Will the base with the protruding XLR barrel be a problem for fitting it in the bottom cup of most cart boom holders? Also, maybe it’s just me but I’d find it helpful if you guys listed the length in feet not inches. Like on the table of lengths and weights of the different models. I always think of poles in feet. A chart that had all your current production poles stats in one chart would be nice too.
  17. Thanks! A few questions... What is the diameter of the largest section? (The one you hold). Does this replace the QXS line? Is the QS still the best? Most rigid?
  18. Thanks good ideas John It’s the first venue I’ve owned but now I have urge to take a drill to it. What is wrong with me?
  19. I’ve tried the combiner method you’re suggesting and it works. I didn’t test it extensively compared to using separate antennas which is the more commonly used setup. might want to double check the spec sheet for that Sennheiser splitter to make sure it works down to 216 MHz
  20. They are telling how it’s wired on their device. Yes, TA3s have their numbering different from an XLR. Why? Who knows. Ask Switchcraft, just remember to make sure to connect the same color conductor to the right pin # and you’re good. Follow the numbers not the location. And check twice before you solder. And remember to put the boot on first
  21. Really great interview and stories! Thanks Ursa, Kim and Simon!
  22. Has anyone here done this mod themselves and be up for offering any ideas or tips? I’d love to get two toggle switches on the front of a venue to switch antenna power in and out but probably putting them on the rear panel would be easier. And here’s a dumb question.. While drilling through the case how do you keep metal cuttings from falling all over and into the circuit board? I know the painters tape trick which contains it to some degree. I suppose you could completely remove the boards but with my luck I’d probably break something in the process. Side question if Larry happens across this... if I use an illuminated switch does enough voltage and current pass through the antenna jumper to actually light an illuminated switch?
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