Jacob Gustavsson

Looks neat! I like the quick table. Has it worked well in the field?

Perhaps some sort of bracket or velcro could be used to secure it a bit, if needed?

Did you make the base of the cart as well?

Nicely done!

The Sound Devices 552 has really great power efficiency! You could run it for days on an 68Wh NP1. And if you didn't have spares you could run easily on internal AA's. A bit limited track recording perhaps as it's just two channels, so if you need many channels it may not be the best choice. What are your channel needs on this documentary?

Hey Javier,

Is the noise still there when you power it without the talentcell?

11 hours ago, BAB414 said:

Got it. But does that carry the "voice" of the speaker in addition to the reverb?

Yes, the impulse response is not purely a reverb, it also contains the tonal characteristics. Sort of like an EQ. For instance; if you record a sweep through a telephone line, you'll get the frequency response of that setup. Hope that helps!

The recording of the sweep will have to be deconvolved in post, then it can be used as a reverb/filter in Altiverb, Reverberate or any other convolution reverb plugin.

Here's some good info from AudioEase:

https://www.audioease.com/altiverb/sampling.php

Recording sine sweep impulse responses of the speaker is usually a good solution. Keep the microphones in the room at their normal positions as during the takes.

On 1/3/2020 at 3:01 PM, Mattias Larsen said:

Have you used this in reality now? How is it performing in real life situations?

They work quite well for my use, they're quite easy to swap. I'm powering two Sony DWX receivers for about 6 hours and I use a separate 3s battery for my F8 recorder. I normally turn off the receivers when there's longer setups between takes and at lunch and that usually gets me through a day on one IKEA pack.

On 1/4/2020 at 3:03 AM, daniel said:

I do like what Jacob has done but NP-Fs are still the Wh / $ bench mark. Aside from the larger capacity of the batteries (eg NP-F970 are c. 60Wh), @ +2 Wh / $, NP-Fs just beat the Ikea option. Plus charger nirvana with USB I/O NP-Fs, so you can charge a bunch of them from a 6 port USB charger - costing less than a battery and about the same size. A 12v O/P shoe adds to their practicality. Some room for improvement with the shoes but workable as they are.

 

Yeah, that sounds like a good alternative. I like the USB functionality as a redundancy.

Phase huggers

Limiter breakers

Insensitive gainers

How does it perform without the amp and the variable resistor? Too weak signal? What are the impedances of your splitters?

I'd say it's a work of art, John! Amazing work!

Marenius C-148 is similar to the MM1

https://www.marenius.se/audiodesign/micampc148.htm

I thought this was a very interesting new wireless audio system, so why not share it here?

Seems inexpensive at $449. Digital, remote controlled, 2.4 GHz. Very tiny transmitters with built-in mic.

https://www.picogear.com

Here's a review with some pros and cons:

1 hour ago, daniel said:

Great work, thanks for posting. Are yo using the Imax to charge? Same battery contacts as the output (or the other 2)? I.e you can use the holder you made for charging purposes as well?

Yes, the Imax B6 charges with the cup, but no balance charging. The battery has four pins which according to some teardown images seem to be plus, temperature resistance, ID resistance and minus, so no access to the individual cells. I suspect the batteries have some sort of BMS, but not sure what kind.

I tested charging 500 mA with my Imax at constant two amps for fifteen minutes and the charging voltage varied about one volt above the battery charge.

Ikea made a bluetooth speaker for which you can buy a 14.4V, 37Wh battery, costing about $20.

I made a 3d-printed holder for it so it can be used to power a sound bag and other equipment.

These packs can be charged in the speaker (the smaller model) itself or with smart chargers like the Imax B6.

I've mentioned these batteries in Allen Rowand's DIY BDS topic, and being inspired by his contributions to the location sound DIY community I wanted to add to it as well.

Speaker

https://m2.ikea.com/us/en/p/eneby-bluetooth-speaker-white-40401393/

Battery

https://m2.ikea.com/us/en/p/eneby-battery-pack-20414264/

Thingiverse link

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3681131

7 hours ago, daniel said:

That is a very good value battery. And a nice shape. Are you going to charge them in the radio? Perhaps its possible to cannibalise the radio to make a shoe/charger.

Using the speaker to charge it seems like a good start, but then it would be fun to try and create a separate charger, maybe even a dual bank charger. 

2 hours ago, Allen Rowand said:

 

I'm using a Talentcell 6000 mAh 12v pack with a built in USB port: https://amzn.to/2EDi5ip

 

$30 US. When I upgrade my radios I'll probably step up to an Inspired Energy battery rig, but for now this has worked with no issues

Nice, also very good value for the Talentcell. Inspired Energy is pretty neat with monitoring battery usage and approximate remaining time, it's a good upgrade but costs a bit more of course.

Looks great! What batteries would you connect?

I've thought about making an adapter for Ikea's bluetooth speaker battery (Eneby), since it's quite a powerful pack for $20. It's rated at 14.4 v, 37 Wh. Making a cup for them would be an interesting project!

15 hours ago, IronFilm said:

Not yet, two major problems: wrong kind of capsules being used for our line of work + the extra weight

Well, since the capsules could be re-encoded to directional cardioid/shotgun, as well as stereo or 5.1 wouldn't they be the excellent capsules for our work?

And weight would be about the same as a Sennheiser 416 or Røde NTG3, as the zoom unit is about 120 grams without batteries. Two AA batteries weigh about 46 grams.

There could be plenty of other challenges though, such as transmitting the ambisonics wirelessly for mixing or monitoring. I like the idea though.

Hi, I'm looking to invest in the R4+ and I'm in the middle of planning my kit to be. It will consist of the R4+, two Wisycom MCR42 and some IFB and so on. My question now and my Google-fu fails me with this one.
 
Do anyone of you know if it would be possible to power the two receivers successfully by just using a Hirose split like this one http://www.hawkwoods.co.uk/Prods/Product/LA-18 going out from the R4+? Will the power be sufficient? I'll also use an external smart battery together wth the internal one.
 
I will not be using the RC8+ but I know that's a good power distribution alternative as well.

I hope the iOS app gets updated too. I wrote Zoom an email a few weeks ago with some thoughts:

Quote

 

Hey there!

I've been using your Zoom F8 app for various film productions, and have some thoughts and questions. I really like being able to remote control the F8 through the app. But it's very annoying having to disconnect the app to be able to edit scene and take of a file, which also means having to type it in via the rotary controller on the F8 instead of the virtual keyboard in the app. It can break the flow of production.

 

Some features I would like to see in the app:

1 - Editing scene and take of a file in the finder.

2 - Shortcut to recording or getting to the home screen from the finder/menu.

3 - Confirmation on the app (not just on the F8) when pressing false take/increment scene.

4 - Track naming and display on the mixer.

5 - Track coloring on the mixer (for matching color coded receivers/actors).

 

Will there be any updates to the app? And will there be an android version?

 

Good wishes

-Jacob

 

Mixpre-10T's  joystick controller often deviate.
and it cannot be record and stop at appropriate timing.

Other day,I found some arcade game button and lever sold at video game shop.
https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=ja&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=ja&ie=UTF-8&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.tops-game.jp%2Fproducts%2Flist.php%3Fcategory_id%3D115&edit-text=&act=url

and I tried to build HID button with adafruit trinket.




Working so far so good in Windows and Macintosh.
Although it is recognized as a generic HID device in Computers.
But did not work with MixPre-10T.

Seems there is USB-Host compatibility problem in Trinket.
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=ja&sl=ja&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.switch-science.com%2Fcatalog%2F1501%2F
I was disappointed just because I liked his compactness.

I will try another board in the near.

What a strange coincidence! My dad showed me one today in my grandfather's old workshop. And now this thread pops up. What's going on? Strange and impressive tool! Very cool! Even has a directional switch!

Belated happy birthday, Oyin! Hope you'll have a great week!

The OM-1 is great! Much like the CM-3 in quality and performance. Very flat frequency response so useful for many situations, even measuring rooms. They both need a bit of extra gain though compared to an Røde NT-4 or AT 4053-b.

Skickat från min C6603 via Tapatalk

What happens if you set it to toggle instead of momentary? Perhaps the recorder only sees the CC and not the value. When pushing down a momentary button it first sends the max value and when you release the button it will send the minimum value, meaning for each push it sends two messages. A button set to toggle only sends a message once per push.

I'd say that's a wise choice. Life is richer without TV.