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Showing results for tags 'Lavalier'.
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Hi All! Inspired by Rado's and Atheismystic's RM11/ COS technique threads, I have decided to post my own Tram-50 technique. My technique is similar to the turtle clip accessory offered by Tram, but offers a lower profile and the ability to customize/adapt the cage. It also avoids the vampire clips that come with the Tram mic cage. This technique isolates clothing from rubbing the mic capsules head. In addition, this techique allows the mic to act as a boundary microphone of sorts. I find this improves the tonal qualites of the mic and to my ears, makes the sound of the mic less honky. It also picks up the resonation of the chest well. And now, without further ado, lets start the tutorial! First I start with these items: Tram-50, Tram Tape Down accessory, a paper clip, wire cutters, hockey tape and a permanent marker (or something to shape the wire clip). I start first with the paper clip. I straighten out the clip as straight as possible. I then cut the paper clip with the wire cutters to be about 1&1/2 as long as the tape down accessory. I take the trimmed wire and bend it over a permanent marker to give the desired shape/curve to the wire. I press down on the wire and make sure I get a nice even curve to the wire while paying attention to the wire bending flat on the sides. This is achieved by using a flat surface such as a table. This is what the wire should look like at this point. As you can see, I have already taken the liberty of placing the Tram-50 into the tape down accessory, with the capsule facing DOWN. It is stated by Tram that the back side of the mic head is the least sensitive part of the microphone and thus, if clothing does somehow rub the mic head, it shouldn't be nearly as apparent as if it rubbed the front of the mic. Also, this allows the mic to act as a boundary microphone when placed on the chest. In the above photo, I line up the wire with the tape down accessory and insure that the bend in the wire will allow a small space for the mic . You do not want the wire touching the mic head, but instead just floating right above it. Next I trim the excess wire on both sides of the tape down so that there is no pointy ends sticking out of the tape down (ouch!). This is what it looks like. Now here is where the hockey tape (Eh?) comes into play. I use hockey tape because of its unique properties. It has superior adhesive, it's cloth/fabric like and is resistant to moisture. This results in the tape not coming undone (and in turn allowing the wire to not bend back and forth with ease), does not produce crunching/movement/rubbing sound like packing/generic tape and wont come undone due to sweating from talent. Perhaps athletic tape would suffice, but I have not tried it. I cut the hockey tape into 1/4" strips, about 2" long for a total of 2 strips. I place the wire flat ends about two thirds the way up on the Tape Down attachment and then place the hockey tape strips over the wire ends. This attaches the wire to the Tape Down attachment as shown below. With tension in the tape, I wrap both sides around the Tape Down attachment to not allow excessive movement in the wire. I wrap both sides about twice around. I press firmly on the tape over the wire. I want the wire ends to be firmly in place. I cut excess tape off the sides so that there are no sharp points of tape to rub against anything. This is what the finished product looks like. Notice the space allowed between the wire curve and the mic element/tape down accessory... I ussually tape down the attachment with surgical tape to the talents chest as such... Likewise, I can also attach to the talents shirt as such... Feel free to let me know if you all have any questions! Until then, Happy Tram'in! Paul Dorough Sound Art Film
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- Tram
- Lav techniques
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Hi, I have several mic cables that have recently developed “nics” along the cable that are just on the outside casing. The mics work fine, there are no intermittency or interference issues. I suspect it happened after putting them in some DPA mic cases that were too small, and the edges snipped the cable casing. I’ve had these mics for years without this, and after putting these cases into play I noticed this development pretty quickly. Anyways, many of these “nics” are in the middle of the cable, or near the mic itself. I’m looking for a product to repair the nic, probably a rubber cement, that ideally doesn’t harden or compromise any of the other parts of the cable. I don’t want to use heat shrink because that also often creates a hard edge that can damage the casing from it rubbing against it. Does anyone have a product they recommend or have found a good solution to a similar problem? (To be clear, cutting the resoldering endings is not an option here, the nics are way up the mic line) best wishes, Brett
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Using A Paperclip To Create An Air Pocket Around A Lavalier Capsule Read Full Article At: https://wavreport.com/2020/02/15/paperclip-lav-technique/
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I'm replacing my ME2 and ME4 lavalier mics for my Sennheiser G3/G4's. My top consideration at this time is the omni Countryman-B6. I would love to hear any pros/cons on this Countryman-B6 decision or any other replacement recommendations ? LivingAudio,
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I'm a camera / video guy. Every now and then I have an interview or a corporate shoot where I have to work solo, and that includes the sound. I have been using the Rodelink wireless lav kits for a few years now and I feel like it's time for an upgrade. I've been looking at the workhorse Sennheiser G4, which would fit my use case perfectly. However, I find it a little hard to decide the configuration - I know I definitely don't want to use the ME-2 lav. I am trying to decide between these options: 1. G4 512P with the MKE-2 microphone - around 700-800€ This would get me a decent microphone and a better wireless pack, and it's more cost-effective! 2. G4 112P, ditch the ME-2, and get a DPA 4060 separately - 850€+ This configuration costs more, but the DPA is excellent. Now, my question is, whether the DPA 4060 is that much better than the MKE-2 to justify the price difference. I feel like the 512P kit is a better deal but I'm not sure. I've heard that the MKE2 is quite robust and would withstand some abuse, but it's also more difficult to hide. The wireless kit is secondary, however the 500 series sounds like a good bonus over the 100 series. Feedback is greatly appreciated, and let me know if my question is stupid
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Hey! I have a mic (DPA 4060) with a torn outer jacket, halfway up the cable. Microphone seems fine, no damage to the shield or cabling itself. Anyone have repair methods to share? A particular gauge of heat-shrink, type of tape, or liquid repair? cheers Adam
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I've done a lot of homework, but the complexities of the wireless lavalier world aren't making complete sense to me yet. Any advice and/or education would be appreciated... I have a recorder/mixer, a shotgun mic with all the accessories, and a bag. This will mainly be used for indoor talking head film commercials, and the occasional indie film. Am I correct for everyone you want to wire up will require a Receiver, Bodypack Transmitter, and a Lavalier Microphone? The R & T are just tonally neutral communication devices, and the lav mic dictates the quality and character of the sound? Most of the use will be in San Francisco and occasionally in Philadelphia. It appears that both of those areas require Freq Block A-1? Are there any other components that are typically required that I didn't list? I can't afford the top end systems from Zaxcom or Lectrosonics right now, but I also don't want something that the industry would consider an amateur level. So Prosumer I guess. I really hope there's a system from Sweetwater that someone could recommend and vouch for so I could buy it through their financing program. https://www.sweetwater.com/c994--Lavalier_Wireless_Systems/high2low Thanks! David
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Hello everyone, First time posting here. I recently purchased a Sanken Cos-11d (Normal Sensitivity) and the connector seems very shoddy to me, for what is supposed to be a very high quality mic. I checked with a friend of mine and he verified that the connector on his is different (we are both using the same 1/8" connection for a Sennheiser G3 system). I purchased it through B&H, so I assume that it is genuine. The connector says Hicon on the outside and it is made of plastic. Often times, when I attach or removed it from the transmitter, the Hicon plastic part comes unscrewed from the tip and exposes the solder points, which also seem pretty weak. Can anyone verify if this is the genuine connector or if theirs came with this as well? I have attached photos. Also, on a related note, I have heard a bit of crackling sound with this mic, even when it isn't close to peaking (around -12dB). Originally, I thought it was because I had the signal too hot at my transmitter or receiver on the G3 system. But, then I attached it directly to a JuicedLink Little DARling, which only has a simple gain setting, and it is still crackling. It only occurs with a voice though, and isn't cable noise. Any idea what could be causing this? (I apologize if my explanation isn't using the best terminology - I do audio out of necessity, but am not a dedicated sound mixer). Thanks! -Joseph
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So earlier on set today my Tram TR-50 BPS got yanked and broke at the base of the power supply. I was wounding if anyone knows how to disassemble the power supply so I can get access to the XLR circuit board without damaging anything?
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Hi there, This is my first post so thanks in advance for being gracious with me. I'm beginning to build my audio kit and, because i'd like to buy a COS-11D lavalier mic, i reached out to Sanken with a question. But, after their reply, it seems clear to me it simply wasn't understood. Here's what i asked: And here was the response from Sanken: Am i missing something obvious? Was this their way of saying, "No, what you want to do is simply not possible." Or were they instead just saying, "We'd really prefer you buy two microphones. That always works out better for us." Any advice and nudges in the right direction would be deeply appreciated. Many thanks.
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Oh yeah, I wish - April Fool!
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Hi all, I have decided to do a little test between four models of lavaliers. There are four audio tracks, all meant to be a comparison between four different models of lavaliers. The four models are as follows: Sony ECM-88, COS11X, Tram TR-50 and AT899. I will play a little game and let you all choose which one is which. *Hint: The lavs listed above are not in the same order as the audio tracks. Setup All Lavs are mounted externaly. All lavs are 6 inches from my mouth. All are the same height from my mouth and are mounted width wise within three inches in the middle of my chest, mounted upright. I am looking forward, straight ahead. All lavs have wind protection. Room is 12' X 15' and talking into acoustic panles to deaden room reflections. (I am in quite a live room at the moment). Routing Sony ECM-88 and COS11X -> Lectro. SMQV -> Lectro. 411A Tram TR 50 and AT 899 -> Lectro. LMA -> Lectro SRB Recorded onto SD 788t, 24 bit, 48khz. Enjoy! Lav. 1 Lav. 2 Lav. 3 Lav. 4 - Paul
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Hello, I am getting two sets of audio ltd 2020 radio systems and have a choice of either sony or a tram mic. What would you say about them and which is a better value you think? I already have two micron sets with dpa 4060 lavs and so i am used more to their form factor. Which one sounds better with audio ltd systems in your opinion? Thanks, Bartosz
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Hi guys! I was in a meeting about an upcoming TV series yesterday when the producer dropped in the old "oh and we'll get the presenter in a swamp and he might dive in." Having never been presented with this problem before, I thought it best to ask those who may have. Based on this conversation, I imagine I'd have to purchase a water-resistent transmitter, but how best to protect the lav when / if our guy gets submerged in muddy water? Any help would be appreciated! Cheers, Eren
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- microphone
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Hi, I was thinking about plastic/rubbery lav concealers such as this DPA one: http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/b3o4z.gn3gt/v/vspfiles/photos/9999-13614-2.jpg?1362991732 Currently the lavs I have are Rode Lavs and OST TL-40's. Does anyone know of lav concealers that work well with these mics? What about these quieting sleeves, anyone tried these and what did you think about them? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/417402-REG/Garfield_SGARHL_Hush_Lav_Lavalier.html Thanks!
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I have several sanken cos 11 lavaliers. For one project I need a headset. Is there a decent way to use a sanken lavalier as a headset? Just wondering...
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Hi everyone, I find myself keep changing the way I store my lavs in my pelican and can't find the perfect way to store them. Fast access, durable, space conscious.... If some of you feel like you have a satisfying solution, would you please share with me or perhaps upload a photo of your box, case, store space, etc... ? Thank you in advance guys/girls! Engin
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Get your Lavalier repaired....Wilcox will make them just like new! Or change connector's, fix head or new cable! We are the BEST!!!!
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I have been using DPA 4060 lavs for a few years now, for both environmental field recording and dialogue recording, and have always been blown away by how much detail they pick up for a miniature microphone! Recently, for the first time I found myself using some Tram lavs to capture dialogue on a shoot, and I must say I absolutely love them. Although they don't pick up the top-end as well as the 4060s, they seem do deal with the low-mids better and really add a particular warmth that I found to be lacking in the DPA lav mics. I also find them easier to mix with my Rode NTG3 recordings. After the shoot I decided to see how they performed in capturing ambient sounds, and I must say I'm not all that impressed! the recordings seem quite flat and almost muddy i.e, the air conditioner was too present and thick, and the low and hi frequencies didn't seem as pronounced and solid as what I'm used to with the 4060s. I'd be VERY interested to hear other peoples experiences and thoughts on the subject. Marty
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Short version (if you don't have time to read the whole thing): I've been looking at the threads on lavs, and one thing I don't see discussed is which lavs are well-suited to mount to talents as fast as possible, with as little consequence as possible? (eg. as little trial and error as possible before I can get rid of muffled audio, clothing rustle, etc.). I will need to look at the following: - Accessories that will work wonders with the mic in question (eg. COS-11 Vampire clip). - Flat vs. other versions? - Cable noise? My budget is unlimited (since the most expensive lavs I know aren't more than $600-700). Background info (If you have an extra minute): I'm still pretty inexperienced, and have only used the COS-11, Trams, and some larger Sony ones (all of which were mostly impossible when it came to clothing noise! The only place I could get them working is in the middle of women's chest, if they had larger chests.). I will always, always boom as well, but I rarely know what the interviewee will wear beforehand, and I rarely know their body type, whether they have body hair or not, etc. Usually, I find out the details on the spot 10-20 minutes before we have to shoot. I'm gonna try to wear the worse possible fabric I have and go try some lavs out at the store, and/or rent a couple. I'm thinking about trying the following: - Tram -- I've tried it, and I may have been lucky on that shoot, but it worked really well! -- Some pretty good advice were given on mounting the Tram in the book Location Audio Simplified - COS-11 -- I've already tried it, and it took me ages to get it right, and with some of the talents I was taking too long so I was asked to just boom (but I didn't have the VCLIP and didn't know about it either. - EMW - B6 - DPA 4060 and 4061 (if they have them in store) - Any other recommendations? Note: I know the question/scenario is stupid, and I know that if I was more experienced I may have been able to get any lav to work with anybody. But I'm not, so if you find this thread stupid, please ignore it (and let it die), if you choose to answer, I will appreciate it.
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Being on the verge of spending money again, I want to make sure this is the right step before parting ways with my hard earned cash. I'm a sound mixer who is relatively new to the craft (about 9 months doing location audio) and I want to invest in some pro quality wireless. One of the things that I feel is most key to being a good sound person is to have pristine audio. Now pristine is a relative idea but getting as close as possible is a good approach when you don't have the clients or money to access the top quality Zaxcom's/Lectro systems. My question is about the sound quality of a Sennheiser G3 Wireless system wired to a Sanken COS11 lavaler vs. Lectro LMa/Lectro UCR100 wired to a Sanken COS11 = ?
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Hello everyone. Thomas from Sound Guys Solutions here. I want to personally thank you for all the kind words about our products and updates! Here is a new video that shows exactly what our new product can do as well as how it can speed up your wiring time!
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- Lav-Rod
- Sound Guys Solutions
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