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Hey guys, I just received a second hand Lectrosonics mm400c today. I put a brand new battery in and tried to power it up, but had no success. Long story short, here are some steps I found useful for a possible quick fix. If the LEDs do not turn on then chances are the switch is to blame. The housing of these units is fully enclosed and power on is done with a magnetic button through the outer wall (waterproof design). Sometimes magnets might fall too far out of alignment and need to be sent in, but give this a try before the hassle. Picture 1 shows the magnet switch at off. Slide it to the middle where you will see to nubs that hold the button in tact expose (picture 2). Use tweezers, or something similar to pry the button out of the middle (picture 3). Now proceed to clean all the grooves from possible dirt or erosion, and place the button back in. I found in my case, there was just enough crud to prevent the sliding power switch to fully reach the on position. Hope this helps. Cheers!

continuing from the great post "eneloop batteries...?!", i would like to ask the question: are there any 4 battery chargers that will charge the batteries individually? (this i ask as a space issue for traveling) the great info i learned from that post was that a 4 batt charger, when charging a pair of batts at a time will not charge both batteries equally. i did not know that. i love this forum. P.

Professional Sound Services has put together a full Battery Life Expectancy Chart for your information. Keep this handy! CLICK BELOW FOR LARGER AND TO PRINT

Okay, so I just wanted to through this out there to see that you all though. I have been looking for a good and less expensive than the NP-1 route to power the gear in my bag and have though of something interesting. But before I go trying something dumb and breaking my new toys, I thought Id post all about it here and see what you guys came back with. So here we go: One of my deepest passions in life has always been photography and pretty much all areas of it at that. The area in particular that got me thinking was that of on location portraiture. Specifically the power sources photographers need and use to power profressional studio strobes. In my on location portraiture gear kit, I own a couple portable battery powered inverters that I use to drive my stobes. Now the part that go me thinking was the Li-Ion batteries that these come with (and can be purchased separately) and their voltage output and capacity. Doing some reasearch I found that a standard and popular NP-1 style battery (in this case the IDX NP-L7S LINK) is a 14.6v, 4.6Ah (4600mAh) battery that yeilds 68Wh. I found the following equation to help me with some simple calculations: Wh = (mAh / 1000) * V Inserting the specs from the IDX NP-L7S battery we get: (4600/1000) * 14.6 = 4.6 * 14.6 = 67.16 which is approximately the quoted 68Wh Okay, so I just ran that calc to check the equation and verify some values. Now, the battery I found is a bit different shapped, but it offers the specs of 14.8v, 8.8Ah (8800mAh) yeilding what I calculate to be approx 130Wh. Heres the math: (8800/1000) * 14.8 = 8.8 * 14.8 = 130.24 which is approximately 130Wh Fine, so why go through all this trouble? Well, this battery I own is $89 and the charger, is $29. Thats a whole lot more appealing that the minimum of $200+ for an NP-1 battery and charger setup. And it fits nicely in the back pocket of a Petrol PS607 bag. The Battery: LINK The Charger: LINK So what Im thinking now is this: the connection on this battery is a standard crimp on connection type thats pretty cheap. Ill post a link when I find one, I just cant remember what that dang things are called at the moment, plus Ive had a couple beers at this point which isnt helping. But making a simple cable from these two connectors to say the Sound Devices Bare Hirose 4-pin HR10-7P-4P Power Connector (Pins 1(-) and 4(+) from the SD manual) LINK should be no problem at all. Or even cheaper here: LINK. And just like that you have a power source that is roughly twice the run time of an NP-1. Now the part Im having a bit of trouble with and that I hoping someone out there can help me out on is how do I wire this up to split the source so that I can power both a 702 and 302 from the same battery. Wiring two Hirose connections in parallel from the red and black connector (whatever its called) should do it right? At least thats what Im thinking. Ive attached a few pics of the various parts, including the battery shown fitted nicely in the back pouch of a Petrol PS607 bag. Now believe me, I know Im not the first to suggest some DIY battery combo, nor will I be the last. But the fact that this setup could potentially be cheaper and longer running than some other options makes it something at least to consider. Especially for me since I already own it! So, what do you guys think? Is it worth pursuing or am I just heading to blow up my 702?

I was sure I read a post some time ago about L-series batteries, maybe it was on RAMPS, but couldn't find anything here through a search here. Anyway, I need to replace my Sony (7.2/4600) battery that I have sitting flush in my 788. It has always underwhelmed me, may have been a dud from the start. There seem to be a lot to choose from so I thought i'd see what others are using and happy with. Thanks!