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Found 7 results

  1. Hello everyone, First time posting here. I recently purchased a Sanken Cos-11d (Normal Sensitivity) and the connector seems very shoddy to me, for what is supposed to be a very high quality mic. I checked with a friend of mine and he verified that the connector on his is different (we are both using the same 1/8" connection for a Sennheiser G3 system). I purchased it through B&H, so I assume that it is genuine. The connector says Hicon on the outside and it is made of plastic. Often times, when I attach or removed it from the transmitter, the Hicon plastic part comes unscrewed from the tip and exposes the solder points, which also seem pretty weak. Can anyone verify if this is the genuine connector or if theirs came with this as well? I have attached photos. Also, on a related note, I have heard a bit of crackling sound with this mic, even when it isn't close to peaking (around -12dB). Originally, I thought it was because I had the signal too hot at my transmitter or receiver on the G3 system. But, then I attached it directly to a JuicedLink Little DARling, which only has a simple gain setting, and it is still crackling. It only occurs with a voice though, and isn't cable noise. Any idea what could be causing this? (I apologize if my explanation isn't using the best terminology - I do audio out of necessity, but am not a dedicated sound mixer). Thanks! -Joseph
  2. I've found some third party Lemo-compatible screw-on type 3-pin connectors that I much prefer over the actual Lemo version. These are the connectors that would be used with a Zaxcom transmitter, or higher end Sennheiser model. When I first got some of these I thought they were Lemo brand and that the company had improved them. Then, I realized that they were a third party version. These connectors use a tightening collar strain relief (that can be reused) rather than the crimp style that Lemo screw-ons have. Picture a strain relief more like what Neutrik XLRs use. They are easier to both wire and assemble (you don't need a special tool) and can be reused. One caution is that if you're removing a previous cable, be very careful not to pry the tiny strain relief "fingers" out too far (in order to release the old cable), as they can break. Including the vinyl boot, the original Lemo version is made up of seven parts, this one has only five. The vinyl boot comes standard with this version, whereas you need to order it separately with the actual Lemo. These connectors seem to screw on and off the Zaxcom transmitters easier than the actual Lemos. ...Oh, and they cost less, too. I stumbled onto a few some time back and then searched for months to find a source for them -- to finally discover they are readily available via our regular suppliers -- if only you know what to ask for and where to tell the dealer to source them from. It's a simple as: Call your favorite professional sound dealer (what we here call, "The Usual Suspects") and tell them to order "Reusable 3-Pin Lemo Connectors" from Redding Audio. The Redding Part Number is "RED16". They can be found on the Audio Limited price list. Redding Audio is the distributor for Schoeps, Rycote, Ambient, and Voice Technologies, among others, so any professional sound dealer who serves our industry, already has a working relationship with them. The top photo below is of a standard Lemo screw-on 3-pin connector (minus the boot), and the bottom photo is of the improved (in my opinion) connector. This version may even end some people's hatred of wiring Lemo connectors.
  3. Hi all, anyone know if there was a source for the lower profile female XLR connectors? Have noticed a few here and there, Loon certainly use them with their cables. I'd love to to wire some up if they're around. cheers http://www.loonaudio...=a815B4B2CC.jpg
  4. does anyone know where to buy the threaded 1/8" mono connector that are used for the lectro MM's? trying to make an adaptor to go from Ta5 to the threaded cable for an MM200 that will work with a standard mc30/40 for hops as well as standard lectro ta5 lav connector. The adaptors I have now don't work with any mc30/40/41s I've tried.
  5. Hi folks, I always thought the Audio Ltd. TX/RX (and Lectro as well) had SMA connectors for the antennae. No I ordered a pack of SMAs for a small antenna distribution DIY project, and these are way bigger than the ones on the RX. Otherwise they look the same, just "zoomed in". Anybody care to give me the exact type of connector? THX in advance Peter
  6. Does anyone have a definitive answer for whether or not to connect the cable 'Shield' to the connector 'Case' Standard wiring for 'Balanced' Input/Output 3 Pin XLR is: Pin 1 Shield Pin 2 + Pin 3 - But should you jumper Pin 1 'Shield' to the connector 'Case' It seems that every time I ask someone I get a different answer ranging from "Absolutely yes" to "Definitely not" and even "Yes for location audio but no for studio audio" or "Only at one end" or "No way because that 'Case' lug is for attaching the string in the cable to provide strain relief". Comments from the crowd
  7. Lately I've been having noise issues with my 416 and my rode blimp, namely the switch-craft connector that connects to the 416. I've had to use snot tape inside and outside the mic to xlr connection and it STILL makes some noise when the pole is moved around a little to hard. HAs anybody had any problems with the Rode Blimp and a 416? It seems to me there is just a bit too much room between them when they are connected. I want to upgrade to a Rycote or a Cinela mount at some point, but for right now this is what I got. Anybody in the same boat?
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