Jump to content

LEMO connectors


MatthewFreedAudio

Recommended Posts

Vin,

 

I am in the US, but the price, even with shipping for Lemo brand is attractive to me. I have only seen off brand for similar prices ~20.00US before shipping. So can anyone can reccomend a 3-4.1mm OD cable with two pair inside?

 

-Ross

Apologies, did not see 'Colorado'... 

 

I'm sure LEMO has a well established presence in the US, you should try talking to them to get the right size of collet... 

 

Otherwise the cable Eric talks about will do the job, and stay snug with some heat shrink on top. i saw it even though the OD is slightly more than 4mm as he says... better snug than not... 

 

-vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I rewired all my lav mics earlier this year with the small 3 pin lemo connectors used by the likes of Zaxccom, Wisycom and professiojnal Sennheiser gear. They really are very tricky, i tried it hung over one day and had to come back to it; its like soldering onto pin heads which are less than a pin heads distance appart from each other.

 

I believe there is a choice of connectors available, one being screw and one being push-pull. I went for the screw on and bought them direct form Lemo UK along with strain relief boots and some spare (non reusable) crimp-on collets.

 

Some people get by without a proper tool to screw the crimp-on collet into the connector body; using tweezers or such like. I made a tool out of an old screwdirver by cutting a notch in it using a thin angle grinder disc. If your going to be doing a couple or more of these connectors buy or make a tool, dont scimp on this, it will save you time, not frey your patience and allow you to concentrate on the cable prep and soldering.

 

The crimp on ferrules supplied as standard witht the connectors were the perfect size for the cable diameter of my COS-11's but were too big for the cables on my B6's. I used a couple of layers of heat shrink to size up which had the added benifit of additiona strain relief.

 

By far the trickiest thing after the soldering itself is preparing the cable properly. The cable on a COS11 is hellish, the conductors are wound with some sort of nylon strands for strength and the outer insulation melts very easily. You have to prepare to a high level of precision as there is very little space between the solder terminals and the collet where the outer insulation of the lav is cut. Like all soldeing jobs the devil is in the detail, preparing everything is the biggest part of the job, the soldering, if you get it righ first time, takes seconds. You'll want a soldering iron with a very fine tip, a steady hand and possibly a mignifying glass ( i didnt but had to take off my glasses used for distance and still felt cross eyed after soldering these for an afternoon)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...
On 11/18/2013 at 5:29 PM, matadams said:

By far the trickiest thing after the soldering itself is preparing the cable properly. The cable on a COS11 is hellish, the conductors are wound with some sort of nylon strands for strength and the outer insulation melts very easily.

 

The best tool for stripping these kind of cables is a thermal stripper. Look at PATCO. You will need two, one for PVC outer insulation and PTFE tool for the inner conductors... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...