Sebastian Posted April 10, 2012 Report Posted April 10, 2012 Hi guys I have a COS 11 that's intermittently crackly at the mic end (just where the cable enters the capsule) which tells me the cable is on it's way out. Has any one had the same problem and cut and rewired from that end or does this mean the demise of said mic? Is the cable moulded into the capsule and therefore irreparable or can I breath new life into it. The mic isn't that old and want to avoid buying another one if I can possibly help it.
jozzafunk Posted April 10, 2012 Report Posted April 10, 2012 The older cos11 are a little notorious for having a weak point where you describe - The more recent version 'd' has been strengthened here. Our local lav guy, who's very good, has said he's not had much success fixing breaks/damage at this point unfortunately.
Sebastian Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Posted April 10, 2012 Thanks for the reply Joel I was hoping that wasn't the case although I suppose I kind of knew it! My mic isn't the "D" version so reluctantly might have to bin it.
John Blankenship Posted April 10, 2012 Report Posted April 10, 2012 You can buy a COS-11D without accessories and save some money that way ($321 w/TA5F). If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can save even more by buying one both without accessories and unterminated (under $300).
Sebastian Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Posted April 10, 2012 You can buy a COS-11D without accessories and save some money that way ($321 w/TA5F). If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can save even more by buying one both without accessories and unterminated (under $300). Nice idea John. I'm quite handy with a soldering iron so will definitely go that route.
Jack Norflus Posted April 10, 2012 Report Posted April 10, 2012 I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron - and I tried to repair a COS 11 once and gave up. The wires are pretty thin and there are these tiny fibers that need to be trimmed. I gave up in about 30 minutes and decided that the $25 was more than worth it to have it done professionaly.
Marla Hettinger Posted April 26, 2012 Report Posted April 26, 2012 I have had several of mine fixed at Wilcox Sound near Burbank, CA. It's about $100-ish. His name is Muni and he has fixed my old sonatrims's and the crackly sanken's. Hope this helps! Marla Hettinger sound mixer Los Angeles, CA
Marc Wielage Posted April 26, 2012 Report Posted April 26, 2012 Muni at Wilcox is the best. When it comes to wiring, if he can't fix it, I'd say it can't be fixed.
RadoStefanov Posted April 26, 2012 Report Posted April 26, 2012 Sanken cos11 for servo is very easy to solder.
Morantzsound Posted April 28, 2012 Report Posted April 28, 2012 Muni has fixed many of my sankens over the years.
efksound Posted May 5, 2012 Report Posted May 5, 2012 I have one with more or less the same problem that Sebastian has, it "cracks" when you move the cable near the capsule area, but the funny thing is that after 5min plugged in the transmitter (UM400) the crackling disappears., you move the cable and everything fine... It's like it needs to warm up to start working :-)
mikewest Posted May 29, 2012 Report Posted May 29, 2012 Little note If a grille comes loose on a Sanken do not use super glue It will kill the electret membrane mike
André Boisvert Posted May 31, 2012 Report Posted May 31, 2012 Years ago, I had a grille pop off a cos11 while sliding it out of an RM. I used epoxy glue around the rim of the inside, no more than 1-2 mm in, using a toothpick. You can see the diaphragm, so steer clear. The toughest part was getting the grille back in. Jeweler's screwdrivers did the trick for me. It didn't take long before I lost track of which of my Sankens I'd fixed - they all sounded the same.
soundtrane Posted June 1, 2012 Report Posted June 1, 2012 Just go to know from Sanken that replacement parts are available for the COS11(d). mic capsule, cable etc.
soundtrane Posted June 2, 2012 Report Posted June 2, 2012 Sanken Japan told me they can replace the mic capsule (integrated with the cable), but the price was not too far from a new Sanken. Does not make sense.
Rob Shire Posted May 7, 2016 Report Posted May 7, 2016 Replacing that grille on the mic body is very tough. I made a wooden jig by drilling a hole with 7/64 " drill bit to press in while retaining shape of grille. I used some dental tools to massage the grille along to get it all lined up and also used the epoxy method in pin drop amounts. Worked but one piece of wire didn't get into the body and a vampire clip snag took it off a month later. I'm in process of seeing if Sanken can send me some grilles and thought of using the Loctite Red, the same stuff to secure bolts in engines. Super glue sets to quick and flows to easily.
berniebeaudry Posted May 9, 2016 Report Posted May 9, 2016 Mike there are varieties of super glue type adhesives that have a longer cure time and a thicker viscosity.
afewmoreyears Posted May 9, 2016 Report Posted May 9, 2016 If anybody gets in a bind with their COS-11, call Blake at Wilcox Sound in Burbank CA.... They have repaired my Sankens for years... rewired at the head...replaced cables... windscreens etc.... The man who does it is MONY, awesome work and reasonable... He is the ONLY person I know who does this... http://wilcoxsound.net/
RPSharman Posted May 9, 2016 Report Posted May 9, 2016 5 minutes ago, afewmoreyears said: If anybody gets in a bind with their COS-11, call Blake at Wilcox Sound in Burbank CA.... They have repaired my Sankens for years... rewired at the head...replaced cables... windscreens etc.... The man who does it is MONY, awesome work and reasonable... He is the ONLY person I know who does this... http://wilcoxsound.net/ This is so true! Mine were repaired there too, with cables that are nicer that OEM and straight. If your mic still sounds nice, but cable has gotten short and/or bumpy, this breathes in new life!
jslocationsound Posted July 16, 2016 Report Posted July 16, 2016 +1 for locktite red on the grill, fixed mine with that a year ago and haven't had any issues since.
enginufuk Posted August 21, 2016 Report Posted August 21, 2016 Saturday night work... Had three damaged Cos11Ds. All crackling from where the cable and the capsule meet. All seem to working fine now. It was quiet easy and surprisingly fast to fix them. Waiting for the glue to dry. Will see how long they last for. Uploaded some pictures for the folks who are curious how the process went. Cheers, Engin (Sorry for the photo uploads. For some reason I couldn't organize them in proper order)
Sebastian Posted February 17, 2017 Author Report Posted February 17, 2017 On 8/21/2016 at 1:43 AM, enginufuk said: Saturday night work... Had three damaged Cos11Ds. All crackling from where the cable and the capsule meet. All seem to working fine now. It was quiet easy and surprisingly fast to fix them. Waiting for the glue to dry. Will see how long they last for. Uploaded some pictures for the folks who are curious how the process went. Cheers, Engin (Sorry for the photo uploads. For some reason I couldn't organize them in proper order) Great to see my thread revisited after 5 years! Thanks for the pics Engin. I guess the rubber sleeve had to be cut away! Perhaps a bit of Sugru might work in place of the heatshrink.
nagnila Posted June 3, 2017 Report Posted June 3, 2017 If a Cos11 is not working due to its connector it's easy to fix it.. try to solder black-white-ground cables to relative pins...done! If a Cos11 have cable tatters it's easy to fix it with heatshrink.. cover it and heat it....done! But if a Cos11 is broken from the bottom of its capsule... you have a big trouble. After having dozen of Cos11 broken from the bottom of their capsules during years on set, I had to find a way to fix it. After some inspectations and workaround, I was finally able to fix all with rebuilding really strong like brand new ones. This is one of them... reconstructed but still naked: I chose different color (gray) for new rubber in order to differentiate it from my originals: Some cosmetic touches have been applied: And finally 4 of them are ready to return back to set... I'm located in Istanbul - Turkey, and may help you if you have a broken Cos11 close to me.. Cheers, Cihan
VacekH Posted February 5, 2018 Report Posted February 5, 2018 On 3. 6. 2017 at 9:37 PM, nagnila said: If a Cos11 is not working due to its connector it's easy to fix it.. try to solder black-white-ground cables to relative pins...done! If a Cos11 have cable tatters it's easy to fix it with heatshrink.. cover it and heat it....done! But if a Cos11 is broken from the bottom of its capsule... you have a big trouble. After having dozen of Cos11 broken from the bottom of their capsules during years on set, I had to find a way to fix it. After some inspectations and workaround, I was finally able to fix all with rebuilding really strong like brand new ones. This is one of them... reconstructed but still naked: I chose different color (gray) for new rubber in order to differentiate it from my originals: Some cosmetic touches have been applied: And finally 4 of them are ready to return back to set... I'm located in Istanbul - Turkey, and may help you if you have a broken Cos11 close to me.. Cheers, Cihan Hi, awesome work! What kind of rubber or epoxy you are using to cover the connection? Thanks! Honza
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