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Repairing a COS 11


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Hi guys

I have a COS 11 that's intermittently crackly at the mic end (just where the cable enters the capsule) which tells me the cable is on it's way out. Has any one had the same problem and cut and rewired from that end or does this mean the demise of said mic? Is the cable moulded into the capsule and therefore irreparable or can I breath new life into it. The mic isn't that old and want to avoid buying another one if I can possibly help it.

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The older cos11 are a little notorious for having a weak point where you describe - The more recent version 'd' has been strengthened here. Our local lav guy, who's very good, has said he's not had much success fixing breaks/damage at this point unfortunately.

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You can buy a COS-11D without accessories and save some money that way ($321 w/TA5F). If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can save even more by buying one both without accessories and unterminated (under $300).

Nice idea John. I'm quite handy with a soldering iron so will definitely go that route.
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I'm pretty handy with a soldering iron - and I tried to repair a COS 11 once and gave up. The wires are pretty thin and there are these tiny fibers that need to be trimmed. I gave up in about 30 minutes and decided that the $25 was more than worth it to have it done professionaly.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have one with more or less the same problem that Sebastian has, it "cracks" when you move the cable near the capsule area, but the funny thing is that after 5min plugged in the transmitter (UM400) the crackling disappears., you move the cable and everything fine...

It's like it needs to warm up to start working :-)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Years ago, I had a grille pop off a cos11 while sliding it out of an RM. I used epoxy glue around the rim of the inside, no more than 1-2 mm in, using a toothpick. You can see the diaphragm, so steer clear. The toughest part was getting the grille back in. Jeweler's screwdrivers did the trick for me. It didn't take long before I lost track of which of my Sankens I'd fixed - they all sounded the same.

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  • 3 years later...

Replacing that grille on the mic body is very tough. I made a wooden jig by drilling a  hole with 7/64 " drill bit to press in while retaining shape of grille. I  used some dental tools to massage the grille along to get it all lined up and also used the epoxy method in pin drop amounts. Worked but one piece of wire didn't get into the body and a vampire clip snag took it off a month later.

I'm in process of seeing if Sanken can send me some grilles and  thought of using the Loctite Red, the same stuff to secure bolts in engines. Super glue sets to quick and flows to easily.

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If anybody gets in a bind with their COS-11, call Blake at Wilcox Sound in Burbank CA....   They have repaired my Sankens for years... rewired at the head...replaced cables... windscreens etc....  The man who does it is MONY,  awesome work and reasonable...  He is the ONLY person I know who does this...

http://wilcoxsound.net/

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5 minutes ago, afewmoreyears said:

If anybody gets in a bind with their COS-11, call Blake at Wilcox Sound in Burbank CA....   They have repaired my Sankens for years... rewired at the head...replaced cables... windscreens etc....  The man who does it is MONY,  awesome work and reasonable...  He is the ONLY person I know who does this...

http://wilcoxsound.net/

This is so true! Mine were repaired there too, with cables that are nicer that OEM and straight. If your mic still sounds nice, but cable has gotten short and/or bumpy, this breathes in new life!

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Saturday night work... 

Had three damaged Cos11Ds. All crackling from where the cable and the capsule meet. All seem to working fine now. It was quiet easy and surprisingly fast to fix them. Waiting for the glue to dry. Will see how long they last for. Uploaded some pictures for the folks who are curious how the process went.

Cheers,

Engin

(Sorry for the photo uploads. For some reason I couldn't organize them in proper order)

 IMG_20160820_195159.jpg

IMG_20160820_202106.jpg

IMG_20160820_192344.jpg

IMG_20160820_194300.jpg

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  • 5 months later...
On 8/21/2016 at 1:43 AM, enginufuk said:

Saturday night work... 

Had three damaged Cos11Ds. All crackling from where the cable and the capsule meet. All seem to working fine now. It was quiet easy and surprisingly fast to fix them. Waiting for the glue to dry. Will see how long they last for. Uploaded some pictures for the folks who are curious how the process went.

Cheers,

Engin

(Sorry for the photo uploads. For some reason I couldn't organize them in proper order)

 IMG_20160820_195159.jpg

IMG_20160820_202106.jpg

IMG_20160820_192344.jpg

 

Great to see my thread revisited after 5 years! Thanks for the pics Engin. 
I guess the rubber sleeve had to be cut away! Perhaps a bit of Sugru might work in place of the heatshrink.

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  • 3 months later...

If a Cos11 is not working due to its connector it's easy to fix it.. try to solder black-white-ground cables to relative pins...done!

If a Cos11 have cable tatters it's easy to fix it with heatshrink.. cover it and heat it....done!

But if a Cos11 is broken from the bottom of its capsule... you have a big trouble.

 

After having dozen of Cos11 broken from the bottom of their capsules during years on set, I had to find a way to fix it.

After some inspectations and workaround, I was finally able to fix all with rebuilding really strong like brand new ones.

 

This is one of them... reconstructed but still naked:

IMAG0970.jpg

 

I chose different color (gray) for new rubber in order to differentiate it from my originals:

IMAG0971.jpg

 

Some cosmetic touches have been applied:

IMAG0972.jpg

 

And finally 4 of them are ready to return back to set... :)

IMAG0973.jpg

 

I'm located in Istanbul - Turkey, and may help you if you have a broken Cos11 close to me.. :)

Cheers,

Cihan

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  • 8 months later...
On 3. 6. 2017 at 9:37 PM, nagnila said:

If a Cos11 is not working due to its connector it's easy to fix it.. try to solder black-white-ground cables to relative pins...done!

If a Cos11 have cable tatters it's easy to fix it with heatshrink.. cover it and heat it....done!

But if a Cos11 is broken from the bottom of its capsule... you have a big trouble.

 

After having dozen of Cos11 broken from the bottom of their capsules during years on set, I had to find a way to fix it.

After some inspectations and workaround, I was finally able to fix all with rebuilding really strong like brand new ones.

 

This is one of them... reconstructed but still naked:

IMAG0970.jpg

 

I chose different color (gray) for new rubber in order to differentiate it from my originals:

IMAG0971.jpg

 

Some cosmetic touches have been applied:

IMAG0972.jpg

 

And finally 4 of them are ready to return back to set... :)

IMAG0973.jpg

 

I'm located in Istanbul - Turkey, and may help you if you have a broken Cos11 close to me.. :)

Cheers,

Cihan

Hi, awesome work! What kind of rubber or epoxy you are using to cover the connection?

 

Thanks!

Honza

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