Wandering Ear Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 The fvb is not hard to disassemble. It takes a little trial and error at first but ones I figured it out it is fairly easy. Did you mean the FGB? The FGB series can be disassembled reasonably, but I don't see how you'd disassemble an FVB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted July 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 I did. Following the advices on this topic. Will post how to when I find the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I end up paying one of the usual suspects to wire 5 of my sankens. I started getting problems with sudden broom noises when the talent sits on a chair or moves his body. Today 2 of the lavs wired with FVB.00.303.NLA just fell apart. It seriously compromised my work and I was happy to have my lectros as a backup. The one lav that was wired with FGB.00.303.CLAD22 has had zero problems. I am considering wiring all of the with the push pull plug. It is really troubling dealing with problems like that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyHall Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 I end up paying one of the usual suspects to wire 5 of my sankens. I started getting problems with sudden broom noises when the talent sits on a chair or moves his body. Today 2 of the lavs wired with FVB.00.303.NLA just fell apart. It seriously compromised my work and I was happy to have my lectros as a backup. The one lav that was wired with FGB.00.303.CLAD22 has had zero problems. I am considering wiring all of the with the push pull plug. It is really troubling dealing with problems like that... Either of them are a pain in the backside to solder, but I've not had an issue with the FVB.00.303.NLA plug that I used. Pity that it costs so damn much just for it to fail on you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 I am placing my bet on the push pull Lemo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnpaul215 Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Did anyone find a good source for the FGB version? I keep finding FGG connectors. Mouser lists them, but doesn't stock them. Searching Digikey is a mess, I don't think Markertek sells them. Most of their Lemo connectors are part of a built cable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 have you tried going direct to Lemo in the states? check the contact section on the lemo website. in the uk, i get all my lemo connectors direct from them, and it is much cheaper than going through my normal component suppliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efksound Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 I just realized after some testings and wondering why I was getting drop outs at short distances that both of my COS11D that came with my TRX900LAs are not grounded to shell, unfortunately they have the FVB.00.303.NLA (screw type release). Any easy way to disassemble them without destroying them so I could try to fix them? I know how to open 5 pin and 4 pin lemos easily but these are a real mistery... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich Posted March 19, 2013 Report Share Posted March 19, 2013 there is a lemo tool to unscrew the collet, but i dont imagine that you have that. so, remove the rubber boot, and find yourself a set of thin nosed pair of pliers, and carefully unscrew the collet - if you keep the mic cable under gentle tension, then the crimped part will follow the collet as unscrew. and eventually, you should be able to get to the soldered parts inside. ill suggest adding a blob of solder to the outside part of pinn 1, so that when you put the 2 metal inserts back, it makes contact thus connecting the shell. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efksound Posted March 20, 2013 Report Share Posted March 20, 2013 Thanks for the tips Rich.Will try this over the weekend and hope to improve the range of my TRX900LAs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efksound Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 No progress....still struggling and finding a proper tool to unscrew that damn collet.... That's the hardest connector to disassemble I've encountered... I wonder how some people have issues with them falling apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 If they're assembled properly there's no way they should fall apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 Tool-wise, tiny needle-nosed pliers or small diagonal cutters can work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efksound Posted March 28, 2013 Report Share Posted March 28, 2013 My arsenal :-) but no luck yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matadams Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 I had to do 8 of these recently so decided to make a tool out of a screwdriver. I used a very narrow gauge metal cutting disc in the angle grinder and after a bit of messing made something half decent. The actual tool from lemo is £40 but if you've got more than a couple of these connectors to do, i highly reccomend buying one, or making something similar. I also found you can buy the crimp-on collet as a seperate part (# FVG.00.160.DN). Only £0.38 each so worth ordering a few as spares as theres no way to un-crimp if you make a subsequent mistake or need to re-make the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Miramontes Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Has anyone else noticed that the FVB's need to be screwed very tight so that you don't get drop-outs? Are the FVB's better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 My arsenal :-) but no luck yet Nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vale Posted June 29, 2013 Report Share Posted June 29, 2013 I've just purchased two zaxcom transmitters LA-NC and have a two sanken COS11: one of tem works perfectly on both transmitters, the second one works as aspected on the first transmitters but don't work (no sound) on the other one. which could be the problem? Is the sanken or the transmitter? Thanks, v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
studiomprd Posted July 1, 2013 Report Share Posted July 1, 2013 " Is the sanken or the transmitter? " probably Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Levine Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 I have a COS 11-D I'm hoping to repair... reading this is not making me hopeful. I've done 4- and 5-pin lemos and all flavors of ta connectors before, so at the very least I'm hoping this will be a learning experience. What tool would someone recommend to remove the rubber boot from the back of a FVB.00.303.NLA (screw-type) lemo? David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wandering Ear Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 I have a COS 11-D I'm hoping to repair... reading this is not making me hopeful. I've done 4- and 5-pin lemos and all flavors of ta connectors before, so at the very least I'm hoping this will be a learning experience. What tool would someone recommend to remove the rubber boot from the back of a FVB.00.303.NLA (screw-type) lemo? David I use a fine pick or a small flat head screw driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Levine Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 I use a fine pick or a small flat head screw driver. Turns out the screw holding the crimp down was loose. I love an easy fix. Thank you, Wandering Ear! David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sebastian Posted March 23, 2020 Report Share Posted March 23, 2020 Rehashing this post. Could someone post a photo and offer the part number of the Lemo tool used to tighten the screw. I've tried to make one but haven't had much luck. The Lemo catalogue is a bit vague. Many thanks! Sebastian On 3/28/2013 at 7:02 PM, efksound said: No progress....still struggling and finding a proper tool to unscrew that damn collet.... That's the hardest connector to disassemble I've encountered... I wonder how some people have issues with them falling apart There is NOTHING worse than working with this connector!! It's been a few years so have you managed to find the appropriate tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentine Posted June 2, 2020 Report Share Posted June 2, 2020 I've been dealing with both of these types of Lemo connectors for a few years now. They're just awful work with. I feel confident in all of my equipment except for those stupid connectors. I had every single one of my screw-type connectors fall apart in the middle of a shoot. What I did was open them up with needle nose pliers: just grab the collar and unscrew it. Fix whatever is messed up. Then I put thread locker on the threads and tightened them again with the needle nose pliers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Blankenship Posted June 3, 2020 Report Share Posted June 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Valentine said: I've been dealing with both of these types of Lemo connectors for a few years now. They're just awful work with. I feel confident in all of my equipment except for those stupid connectors. I had every single one of my screw-type connectors fall apart in the middle of a shoot. What I did was open them up with needle nose pliers: just grab the collar and unscrew it. Fix whatever is messed up. Then I put thread locker on the threads and tightened them again with the needle nose pliers. If you haven't yet, see my post on these alternate Lemo style connectors: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.