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Lemo 3 pin connector for Zaxcom TX - Again


RadoStefanov
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  • 1 month later...

I end up paying one of the usual suspects to wire 5 of my sankens. I started getting problems with sudden broom noises when the talent sits on a chair or moves his body. Today 2 of the lavs wired with FVB.00.303.NLA just fell apart. It seriously compromised my work and I was happy to have my lectros as a backup. The one lav that was wired with FGB.00.303.CLAD22 has had zero problems. I am considering wiring all of the with the push pull plug. It is really troubling dealing with problems like that...

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I end up paying one of the usual suspects to wire 5 of my sankens. I started getting problems with sudden broom noises when the talent sits on a chair or moves his body. Today 2 of the lavs wired with FVB.00.303.NLA just fell apart. It seriously compromised my work and I was happy to have my lectros as a backup. The one lav that was wired with FGB.00.303.CLAD22 has had zero problems. I am considering wiring all of the with the push pull plug. It is really troubling dealing with problems like that...

Either of them are a pain in the backside to solder, but I've not had an issue with the FVB.00.303.NLA plug that I used. Pity that it costs so damn much just for it to fail on you.

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  • 6 months later...

I just realized after some testings and wondering why I was getting drop outs at short distances that both of my COS11D that came with my TRX900LAs are not grounded to shell, unfortunately they have the  FVB.00.303.NLA (screw type release). Any easy way to disassemble them without destroying them so I could try to fix them? 
I know how to open 5 pin and 4 pin lemos easily but these are a real mistery...
 

Thanks 

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there is a lemo tool to unscrew the collet, but i dont imagine that you have that. 

so, remove the rubber boot, and find yourself a set of thin nosed pair of pliers, and carefully unscrew the collet - if you keep the mic cable under gentle tension, then the crimped part will follow the collet as unscrew. and eventually, you should be able to get to the soldered parts inside. 

ill suggest adding a blob of solder to the outside part of pinn 1, so that when you put the 2 metal inserts back, it makes contact thus connecting the shell.

 

good luck.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I had to do 8 of these recently so decided to make a tool out of a screwdriver. I used a very narrow gauge metal cutting disc in the angle grinder and after a bit of messing made something half decent. The actual tool from lemo is £40 but if you've got more than a couple of these connectors to do, i highly reccomend buying one, or making something similar.

 

I also found you can buy the crimp-on collet as a seperate part (# FVG.00.160.DN). Only £0.38 each so worth ordering a few as spares as theres no way to un-crimp if you make a subsequent mistake or need to re-make the end.

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  • 1 month later...

I've just purchased two zaxcom transmitters LA-NC and have a two sanken COS11: one of tem works perfectly on both transmitters, the second one works as aspected on the first transmitters but don't work (no sound) on the other one. which could be the problem? Is the sanken or the transmitter?

Thanks, v.

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  • 5 months later...

I have a COS 11-D I'm hoping to repair... reading this is not making me hopeful. I've done 4- and 5-pin lemos and all flavors of ta connectors before, so at the very least I'm hoping this will be a learning experience. What tool would someone recommend to remove the rubber boot from the back of a FVB.00.303.NLA  (screw-type) lemo?

 

David

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I have a COS 11-D I'm hoping to repair... reading this is not making me hopeful. I've done 4- and 5-pin lemos and all flavors of ta connectors before, so at the very least I'm hoping this will be a learning experience. What tool would someone recommend to remove the rubber boot from the back of a FVB.00.303.NLA (screw-type) lemo?

David

I use a fine pick or a small flat head screw driver.

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  • 6 years later...

Rehashing this post. Could someone post a photo and offer the part number of the Lemo tool used to tighten the screw. I've tried to make one but haven't had much luck. The Lemo catalogue is a bit vague. Many thanks!

Sebastian

On 3/28/2013 at 7:02 PM, efksound said:

No progress....still struggling and finding a proper tool to unscrew that damn collet.... That's the hardest connector to disassemble I've encountered... I wonder how some people have issues with them falling apart

There is NOTHING worse than working with this connector!! It's been a few years so have you managed to find the appropriate tool?

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  • 2 months later...

I've been dealing with both of these types of Lemo connectors for a few years now. They're just awful work with. I feel confident in all of my equipment except for those stupid connectors.

 

I had every single one of my screw-type connectors fall apart in the middle of a shoot. 

 

What I did was open them up with needle nose pliers: just grab the collar and unscrew it. Fix whatever is messed up. Then I put thread locker on the threads and tightened them again with the needle nose pliers. 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Valentine said:

I've been dealing with both of these types of Lemo connectors for a few years now. They're just awful work with. I feel confident in all of my equipment except for those stupid connectors.

 

I had every single one of my screw-type connectors fall apart in the middle of a shoot. 

 

What I did was open them up with needle nose pliers: just grab the collar and unscrew it. Fix whatever is messed up. Then I put thread locker on the threads and tightened them again with the needle nose pliers.

 

 

If you haven't yet, see my post on these alternate Lemo style connectors:

 

 

 

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