Jump to content

Home brew BDS


matadams

Recommended Posts

I couldnt find what i needed for sale so decided to make my own. I wanted to be easily able to turn things in my bag on and off, especially off when i wasnt using them and have an led indicators for reference.

The first three switches operate pairs of Hirose sockets, the last two switches operate single hirose sockets. Each switches output runs through a self resetting fuse first, if i have a short and a fuse blows, i should se straight away as the LED will go out.

It works really well and im very happy with it. It is a bit big but i needed the width and depth to fit in the switches and sockets. Actuually, when you solder in there you wouldnt want it much smaller plus theres space left should i decide to develop it further, such as adding a voltage regulator for some outputs.

I can post part numbers if anyone wishes to make one and save some time.

Mat.

post-3321-0-41284700-1353408141_thumb.jp

post-3321-0-28250300-1353408176_thumb.jp

post-3321-0-76896900-1353408204_thumb.jp

post-3321-0-70210200-1353408230_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Matt, clever idea and worthwhile if you are powering lots of wireless etc! It looks as tho you do some nice work, you should get together with a couple of JW Soundies and start a company making specialty equipment!! Eric are you seeing this? Nest of luck, if I were you I would build several in your spare time and sell them! Best of luck JHW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks very good, and not too big at all, I have used Hawk Woods systems for years which are really good, but the switches are buried in the back of the back, it would be great to control stuff more easily.

I've used both of the Hawkwoods NP-1 cups and they always seemed *almost*there*. I liked the power controls, but the cable routing was a mess. Using it with just a mixer, and Li-Ion battery, we didn't have to ration power like some of us try to do when carrying 6 411 RXs. We always pulled the battery as our master on/off switch. A little clunky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats a nice looking setup! i've been thinking about doing something similar but my soldering skills stop at regular xlr's. you should definitely do a run of these and sell them. i use the battery bud II as my bds at the moment but something with a few more outputs and a more slimmer size would be very attractive. let me know if you're looking to build/sell these.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the positive comments, its nice to share these things as ive been a long time lurker on both here and RAMPS back in the day and have taken inspiration and ideas from others posts in the past. I might upload some pics of my other successful projects, the unsuccessful ones never happened ~cough~!

I've used both of the Hawkwoods NP-1 cups and they always seemed *almost*there*. I liked the power controls, but the cable routing was a mess. Using it with just a mixer, and Li-Ion battery, we didn't have to ration power like some of us try to do when carrying 6 411 RXs. We always pulled the battery as our master on/off switch. A little clunky.

Yup, ive got a couple of the Hawk-woods cups too which work fine for a lot of stuff. I founf the switched mode regs that hawk-woods use causing me RF spray in the VHF band, however these days i only use my VHF radio mics as camera links so this is no longer an issue. I think with only four hirose outputs they were just a bit limited for todays more usual bigger bag setups and, as you say John Paul, when you come to change NP1 you have to pull a load of cable out the bag when you pull on the shoe.

With this BDS i can run a single v-lovk battery in the front of my bag (back ache!), or a single np1 or pair of np1's in parallel in the back pocket between me and my mixer/recorder where the weight is best placed. I also have the flexibility of pulling the battery plug and connecting up an AC adapter should the need ever arise.

Mat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As requested here's the part numbers from Farnell in the UK

1077705 HR10-7R-4S(73) SOCKET, PANEL, 4POLE

1082444 IPR1SAD2LOS SWITCH, ON-OFF, BLACK/RED LED

1861148 MC36248 RESETTABLE FUSE, 1.2A

4437159 1590BBK BOX, DIECAST, BLACK, 111X59X31MM

You'll also need a resistor in series with each LED to lower the voltage drop across them. Rough wiring diagram below showing two channels, repeat for more.

post-3321-0-49800700-1353493605_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I take a different approach to bag power. Rather than have a power distro box in the bag, I make up a wiring harness (I wanted to say "harnesses" as I've done many of them over the years, but only one per bag). The harness includes a push button switch as a master power control. I turn off individual receivers via their front panel switches when not in use.

A harness is actually easy to build and adds less weight and bulk to the bag.

Just thought I'd add an alternative to the discussion.

Really nice work, BTW, Mat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I might be able to lay claim to be the first to copy Mat's BDS idea having had a bash a couple of months ago. Thought I best get in before the patent lands.

I did a few things differently managing to squeeze a few more sockets (I reckon the maximum possible) onto the bottom of the box. I've got three ganged off the first switch for Mixer/Recorder, Hop Txs, RF distro, then three pairs for Rxs, and one single for IFB Tx. I also added a socket for power input to the box rather than having a flying lead and used green LEDs rather than red, just cos. I did manage to pop the LEDs in two of them though before realising about needing to drop the voltage with a resistor confirming my prediction that I would mess something up compared to Mat's annoyingly tidy work!

Working well and looks neat and I know I have plenty of distribution for the fullest of bags when needed.

post-1630-0-77661200-1353522206_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As requested here's the part numbers from Farnell in the UK

1077705 HR10-7R-4S(73) SOCKET, PANEL, 4POLE

1082444 IPR1SAD2LOS SWITCH, ON-OFF, BLACK/RED LED

1861148 MC36248 RESETTABLE FUSE, 1.2A

4437159 1590BBK BOX, DIECAST, BLACK, 111X59X31MM

You'll also need a resistor in series with each LED to lower the voltage drop across them. Rough wiring diagram below showing two channels, repeat for more.

post-3321-0-49800700-1353493605_thumb.jp

what is the value of the resistor?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Mat,

really nice piece!!!Typical from the Audio users, because of the stupid switch on the back :-). I also do something similar with a Hawk woods NPU-SQN4 (http://www.hawkwoods...=np-70&asi2=mr4) that I modified. I split it in two parts. One part with the switches with direct access from the mixer. The other part is the cup for the battery. The battery cup sits now in the rear pocket of my Petrol bag.In your DIY, I love the possibility to switch on/off the RXs independently. For my DIY, I switch on/off 2 Rx at a time.

post-1525-0-28417900-1353658366_thumb.jp

post-1525-0-72725400-1353658599_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I take a different approach to bag power. Rather than have a power distro box in the bag, I make up a wiring harness (I wanted to say "harnesses" as I've done many of them over the years, but only one per bag). The harness includes a push button switch as a master power control. I turn off individual receivers via their front panel switches when not in use.

A harness is actually easy to build and adds less weight and bulk to the bag.

Just thought I'd add an alternative to the discussion.

Really nice work, BTW, Mat.

Might try the harness idea. Seems simple, but never thought about it until now. John, with yours, do you include a resetting fuse on each output? Anything else you think I should consider?

As always, love seeing custom work. Thanks Mat for sharing.

Stephane

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The harness includes a push button switch as a master power control. I turn off individual receivers via their front panel switches when not in use.

Some people seem to wear out their Lectro switches, which this avoids. I am guessing that's part of the motivation for all the switches. This is also a lot easier to replace a switch (or re-patch) than a 411.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

and WAY less terrifying.

I had to take a set of cutters to physically snip away the old switch to remove it. A hot soldering iron that close to all those components takes a steady hand.

Some people seem to wear out their Lectro switches, which this avoids. I am guessing that's part of the motivation for all the switches. This is also a lot easier to replace a switch (or re-patch) than a 411.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work!

I think I might be able to lay claim to be the first to copy Mat's BDS idea

No... not the first.

Here's my box from a couple years ago. Doesn't have those fancy push-button combo switches/LEDs, but it does regulate down to 9V for the outputs. I decided on just a single PTC fuse at the front end.

-Brian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...