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DIY- Right Angle XLRs


jason porter

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I've also used the metal hole plugs with success. Except I drilled a small hole to pass the cable through. Also, I decided to not use any adhesive filler and just bend out the prongs a bit and snap the plugs in to the end of the neutrik shell. This seems to work well, hold tightly and it keeps the plug serviceable. Also that way I don't have to make a mess with glue or epoxy.

I used a zip tie and heat shrink to provide stain relief and a few drops of super glue to hold the pin insert in place. I'll take some pics inside and out if folks are interested.

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I've also used the metal hole plugs with success. Except I drilled a small hole to pass the cable through. Also, I decided to not use any adhesive filler and just bend out the prongs a bit and snap the plugs in to the end of the neutrik shell. This seems to work well, hold tightly and it keeps the plug serviceable. Also that way I don't have to make a mess with glue or epoxy.

I used a zip tie and heat shrink to provide stain relief and a few drops of super glue to hold the pin insert in place. I'll take some pics inside and out if folks are interested.

Your method sounds very interesting and a lot less messy. Would love to see some pictures.

 

Eric

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I used 5/8" medal caps from Home Depot, removed the prongs, the (outer) epoxy holds the cap securely. Not serviceable.. but is low profile and robust.. Day 58 of a 62 day shoot and no problems with the four I made to Alex's great instructions, except for the metal cap.

BTW, Thanks Alex

 

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You are very welcome Rick, I'm glad you got to make some. I'm about to make a few more myself. I'm using mine as well with zero failures. I've been following this thread with much interest, and I just love the work many of you are doing. I think the DIY section might be my favorite on this forum.

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  • 3 weeks later...

How did you stop the epoxy gumming up the locking release?

Trade secrets my friend!! :)

 

Seriously though...It took me a few minutes to figure out!

After soldering the joints, I trimmed down the spacer so it fit just underneath the edge of the connector...then I cut the side so it would fit over the cable.

 

I dropped a little hot glue in, pushed in the spacer and let it set, making sure the release still worked...then I filled it up with more hot glue. When it was solid, I trimmed it flush and dropped a spot of colored epoxy on it.

 

To be honest, the hardest part of the whole operation is soldering the joints. The cable I made there is a TA3. I've got kind of a system down for how to trim the leads and I've offset the hole so that the common can never touch pin 2 or 3.

 

I'm not sure I could or even would do a TA5...I dont have any cable with more than 3 conductors thats small enough to make it work.

 

Quite a bit of trial and LOTS of errors. I think I burnt thru 5 connectors!

 

I'll post more pics when I have time

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Here are a few more pics of my workflow on the low pro ta3s and xlr.
 

Awhile back I picked up a drill press jig from Harbor Freight...great money spent! Makes drilling a breeze!

 

The problem: This SRb sits in my bag...thats what happens to the cable.

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The Solution!

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I tried to take pictures along the way, but I have severe memore loss at times so this is all I have! :)

 

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End to end, I have roughly 20-25 minutes labor in each cable...Not including wait time for the hot glue.

 

I gotta hand it to those guys at Kortwich..These TA3's were not easy to figure out! Their other "right angle" cables are awesome! I don't really see myself doing Lemos or 10 pin Hirose but these are pretty easy for me now that I have a workflow.

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Just looking all of these amazing diy low profile connectors and thinking to make some by myself the same way...

It is not so clear to me the last part of the process, so: how do you apply the final glue (what's it, epoxy?) with that perfect round shape and that precision? Then, is that already coloured or do you paint it after it is dried?

Thanks, brilliant work everybody!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Jeff,

 

The drain wire is under the spiral shield so they are always in contact. I use the already twisted drain wire as the ground connection. It's a lot easier to use the drain as the ground than to retwist the spiral shield. Be aware that not all audio cables have a drain wire with the shield so in that case the shield becomes the ground to pin 1.

 

Eric

 

P.S. Contrary to popular belief you are forgiven.

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