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DIY- Right Angle XLRs


jason porter

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Hello- Just thought I would chime in real quick with a +1 for Radlauer's custom XLR cables. I ordered some online before viewing this thread. I had him make them to different lengths so they all line up correctly coming out of my MAXX (terminating on the tight side). Ive had them for a a month or two and everything is working perfectly - really helped me clean up my bag. Thanks again!

Thanks man! Really appreciate the feedback! :)

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Bill and Eric,

 

Thanks for the info on the Techflex.

I guess as a separate question, where can I get cloth covered cable to use as a short connecting cable between a boom pole and a mic? I have not been able to find that type of cable. Thanks.

Rycote used to sell this cable years ago but the maker stopped manufacture so there has been a gap for several years.

I then bought some cotton covered patch cables as used by the UK's phone company, cut the jacks off and replaced them with Xlr's It's known as Litz cable and can be a bugger to solder and that's why the phone company crimp it. A lot of people (me included) don't like the Rycote connector boxes and this cable is the perfect answer. Simon Davies the Managing Director of Rycote has just started marketing a 500mm Xlr male to female cable to fulfil this hole in the market.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Something interesting happened in my very first attempt. This wasn't planned, but it turned out to be an useful feature.

The height difference between standard (cut in the back) Neutrik and XX series is just the necessary space for the XX cable to pass, taking even less space in the bag then I originally expected. Cool.

 

Time to try some Rean TA3s now...

 

post-7715-0-57899400-1404775196_thumb.jp

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yep did the same thing. It's amazing how light it is. I have a few with straight bnc and it sheds a bit more weight. But I like the low profile of the right angle bnc.

wow. that bnc is intriguing. my next venture.

 

Ken

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Malcolm,

Yes, that's the cable I am referring to and I have been looking for it for a good while, just in an effort to isolate the boom mic as much as possible.

I hadn't been able to find a supplier.

Thanks for the info.

Bob

 

Bob, I've gotten form Audio Accessories, Inc. http://www.patchbays.com

 

but in side by side comparison, the Beldon 1804A has less handeling noise

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  • 2 weeks later...

post-10183-0-76502600-1406858101_thumb.jpost-10183-0-19621200-1406858132_thumb.jpost-10183-0-31707100-1406858149_thumb.jpost-10183-0-79271400-1406858172_thumb.j

I am still photographer and educator. I am new to the world of location sound recording and dialogue recording. I have learned a lot from reading the posts on this site and making things (DYI). I would like to thank all the “do it yourself crew” for inspiring me to learn to build my own cables. I am posting some of the thing I have soldered, machined and sewed. Lastly a big thanks to Mr. Matt Lauer and Mr. Eric Toline who answered my questions by sharing their fine work.

 

 

Mark Kirchner

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Hi Jack,

 

The end caps are the silver colored metal caps that are sold in hardware stores. I think there is an unpainted photo of this type of end cap in this thread. I just painted them in retro style colors, like the colors they painter old motel outdoor chairs. I would recomend epoxy for the gluing of the caps and a clamp. The first attempts were done with hot glue and those caps formed a small gap as the glue is more elastic like.

 

mark

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The metal caps are called hole plugs. The trick to eliminating the gap caused by using hot glue is to put the assembly in a vise for a few minutes until the hot glue sets and then running it under cold water to harden the glue. One advantage to hot glue is that you can disassemble the cap and remove the pin block for any repairs with a heat gun.

 

Hi Jack,

 

The end caps are the silver colored metal caps that are sold in hardware stores. I think there is an unpainted photo of this type of end cap in this thread. I just painted them in retro style colors, like the colors they painter old motel outdoor chairs. I would recomend epoxy for the gluing of the caps and a clamp. The first attempts were done with hot glue and those caps formed a small gap as the glue is more elastic like.

 

mark

The metal caps are called hole plugs. The trick to eliminating the gap caused by using hot glue is to put the assembly in a vise for a few minutes until the hot glue sets and then running it under cold water to harden the glue. One advantage to hot glue is that you can disassemble the cap and remove the pin block for any repairs with a heat gun.

post-22-0-31390200-1406903789_thumb.jpg

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The metal caps are called hole plugs. The trick to eliminating the gap caused by using hot glue is to put the assembly in a vise for a few minutes until the hot glue sets and then running it under cold water to harden the glue. One advantage to hot glue is that you can disassemble the cap and remove the pin block for any repairs with a heat gun.

 

I stand corrected, as Mr. Toline points out the correct term for the “caps” are (hole plugs). I do not remember reading about running the XLR connector under cold water on this thread to harden the hot glue. Thanks for the addition.

 

It looks like there are 2 valid ideas about making low profile right angle xlr connectors. The first is the “repairable” hot glue style with a thinner cable stock like Redco TGS-1, the other is the non-repairable epoxy filed xlrs.  Since I made my first set of cables with Canare L-2E5 cable stock the soldering was done with the terminal insert block insitu. So I cannot imagine taking this set connectors apart for repair, but I understand the importance of field repairs, problem solving and making thing with the ability to be repaired.

 

Again, thank you Mr. Toline for sharing your wisdom.

 

mark

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"Wisdom"? Yes, he is an old guy who has done a lotta shit...  but wise? Just kidding. Eric has found his niche after all these years at Elder Cable, located in Florida and offering the famous lifetime guarantee.

I would prefer "Senior Wizard" instead of old guy. You can be the old guy Jeff with my blessings. BTW: It's the famous Toline lifetime guarantee.;-))

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I stand corrected, as Mr. Toline points out the correct term for the “caps” are (hole plugs). I do not remember reading about running the XLR connector under cold water on this thread to harden the hot glue. Thanks for the addition.

 

It looks like there are 2 valid ideas about making low profile right angle xlr connectors. The first is the “repairable” hot glue style with a thinner cable stock like Redco TGS-1, the other is the non-repairable epoxy filed xlrs.  Since I made my first set of cables with Canare L-2E5 cable stock the soldering was done with the terminal insert block insitu. So I cannot imagine taking this set connectors apart for repair, but I understand the importance of field repairs, problem solving and making thing with the ability to be repaired.

 

Again, thank you Mr. Toline for sharing your wisdom.

 

mark

The main reasons I use the Redco TGS-1 cable is because it's lighter, offers a protective rubberized outer jacket and a smaller more flexible stress free bend radius. Three very important factors for bag use. Sure you could use Canare star quad for all your in bag connections but why add the weight and larger diameter cable which will make connecting it to the TA & 3.5mm connectors almost impossible not to mention reduceing the much needed breathing space in the bag?

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Jack, are those crimp on BNC's?  Making cables for my ERx's and need to source those.

I'll speak for Jack..

 

YES.. Kinda hard to find also...but they are more available than the solder kind that you and I spoke about.. EBAY is a good place to find them but they take a long time to get here from China!

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