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DIY- Right Angle XLRs


jason porter

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18 hours ago, Jack Norflus said:

Justin

What connectors are those?

They're low-profile USB connectors, similar to the ones Apple uses. You buy the pinset and the cover/grommet separately. Ive taken the 'lock' out, which is what stops the pinset going this far  back into the cover. I've then drilled the right angle exit (the cable should come out of the back, and connected using Zaxlan wiring, and sealed the connector up.

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Haven't been able to find this info yet so hopefully someone here who has done this before can help me.

I'm looking to try my hand at some low profile cables including TA3 using the Rean connectors. I'm wondering how people are filling the connector with hot glue without it draining into the latching connector and ruining everything? I've viewed the tutorial on Alex's Toy Robot page where he recommends bending the shell-ground pin to stop this on larger connectors, but with the Rean this isn't an option.

Also, with the depth of the barrel of the Rean connectors are you guys/gals notching a slot to get the cable in as opposed to drilling a hole? It seems awfully tight in there to do any soldering if you were feeding the cable through a hole. Of course, I don't have the experience many of you have so perhaps it just looks ridiculously daunting!

 

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5 hours ago, BradTheSoundGuy said:

Haven't been able to find this info yet so hopefully someone here who has done this before can help me.

I'm looking to try my hand at some low profile cables including TA3 using the Rean connectors. I'm wondering how people are filling the connector with hot glue without it draining into the latching connector and ruining everything? I've viewed the tutorial on Alex's Toy Robot page where he recommends bending the shell-ground pin to stop this on larger connectors, but with the Rean this isn't an option.

Also, with the depth of the barrel of the Rean connectors are you guys/gals notching a slot to get the cable in as opposed to drilling a hole? It seems awfully tight in there to do any soldering if you were feeding the cable through a hole. Of course, I don't have the experience many of you have so perhaps it just looks ridiculously daunting!

 

Others may do it differently. Here's my method.

 

Use a small piece of blu-tac to cover the foam 'spring' from the hot glue. Or, just be more accurate with how you pump it in there - let it dry in sections.

I notch out all the small connectors (TA3, TA5, 3.5mm etc), it's EXTREMELY difficult to solder through a hole.

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Maybe this is an asshole thing to say in this post but after spending a not insignificant amount of time on 'right angle' connectorizing I've come to the conclusion that straight connectors are just fine, more mechanically sound, and easier. ;)

They are nice in a few spots though I agree, end of boom pole obviously. I hate that the 688 is so damn wide and almost requires them... 

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Maybe this is an asshole thing to say in this post but after spending a not insignificant amount of time on 'right angle' connectorizing I've come to the conclusion that straight connectors are just fine, more mechanically sound, and easier. [emoji6]

They are nice in a few spots though I agree, end of boom pole obviously. I hate that the 688 is so damn wide and almost requires them... 

Ha, I love it, what a great conclusion to this thread! Kidding, of course, but after reading through most of this thread, I have come to a similar conclusion: maybe those professionally made connectors are not that expensive after all

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6 hours ago, soundslikejustin said:

Others may do it differently. Here's my method.

 

Use a small piece of blu-tac to cover the foam 'spring' from the hot glue. Or, just be more accurate with how you pump it in there - let it dry in sections.

I notch out all the small connectors (TA3, TA5, 3.5mm etc), it's EXTREMELY difficult to solder through a hole.

Fantastic idea - thanks! 

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On 3/10/2016 at 0:35 AM, BradTheSoundGuy said:

Haven't been able to find this info yet so hopefully someone here who has done this before can help me.

I'm looking to try my hand at some low profile cables including TA3 using the Rean connectors. I'm wondering how people are filling the connector with hot glue without it draining into the latching connector and ruining everything? I've viewed the tutorial on Alex's Toy Robot page where he recommends bending the shell-ground pin to stop this on larger connectors, but with the Rean this isn't an option.

Also, with the depth of the barrel of the Rean connectors are you guys/gals notching a slot to get the cable in as opposed to drilling a hole? It seems awfully tight in there to do any soldering if you were feeding the cable through a hole. Of course, I don't have the experience many of you have so perhaps it just looks ridiculously daunting!

 

Yes, notched. But also drilled. The hole is exactly the size of the cable giving some relief, but with the notch ever so lightly smaller in opening, it "bites" into the heat shrink without tearing it. Provides a nice strain relief without trying to fish a ziptie in there.

IMAG3142.thumb.jpg.5c0b50b549ba32f94f46a

As for hot glue: Apply in stages. First, make certain the connector is secured and won't move upon insertion. If the hot glue is too thick to get past my cable, I heat it with a gun until it runs down. Because the metal housing stays warm, it keeps the glue liquidy and I can press more in with the gun. All the while, I'm working the spring latch, and keeping it mostly pressed down, so the glue can't reach the sponge. It won't adhere to metal all that great so if you keep working it as it sets, it'll not stick and everything moves just fine.

On 3/10/2016 at 9:47 AM, Derek H said:

Maybe this is an asshole thing to say in this post but after spending a not insignificant amount of time on 'right angle' connectorizing I've come to the conclusion that straight connectors are just fine, more mechanically sound, and easier. ;)

They are nice in a few spots though I agree, end of boom pole obviously. I hate that the 688 is so damn wide and almost requires them... 

Agreed, but that I just like the way they look and enjoy modifying things. What has me most hung up is that the cable has only one function. Change a piece of gear or mod the bag for just a day and these cables might be completely useless.

BUT, for an ENG go bag that is always prepped and ready to go ANYWHERE because it's as tight and unbreakable as possible, this is the only way to go.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
22 hours ago, Aural Fixation said:

Frido, what kind of cap did you use? That looks really nice.

Here is what I came up with.

 

IMAG3264.jpg

IMAG3265.jpg

Hi, thanks. The receipt says translated to English 'Insert cap circular', Not really specific. I picked it up at a local hardware store for 30 eurocent each. I only had to cut off some of the plastic screw-thread and it fit well. Fixed but not too tight so its removable with fingers.

 

Btw - your's matches nice with the battery cap of the 633

Edited by Frido Beck
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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/31/2016 at 8:34 AM, Frido Beck said:

First post - Many thanks for all the ideas here on this forum. I still have to solder this one but i already like how this looks and feels

IMAG1851.jpg

IMAG1849.jpg

IMAG1854.jpg

That looks very nice, can you tell me where you got the silver xlr holder who makes it? or is that something you made ...

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4 hours ago, JackHenry said:

If the XLR strain relief chuck and bushing are designed to work when the bushing is screwed down firmly onto the chuck, how does putting a 2 or 3 mm spacer between the shell and bushing effect that strain relief??

If you're using it with a the latest style neutrik XLRs there is a removable/replaceable ring between the chuck and the shell which if removed should allow you to get the strain relief needed. Although the ring seems to be in place in the photo presented for the HB CC one so YMMV. The ambient 1 is pictured with the older type XLR (which is a different matter).

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