Eric Toline Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Made for Jan McLaughlin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old school Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Nice. +1, Like button. Well done. CrewC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProSound Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Eric makes great cables and has a wealth of great knowledge to share. His pricing is fair and his quality is great so if your looking for some cables contact him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Karlsson Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Nice work, Eric! Been pondering making some right angle TA-3s myself. Looks like you used the Ranes, but what are those caps? Glue to keep everything in place? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Toline Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 It's Rean not Rane. The caps are 1/2" plastic hole plugs held in place with the hot glue that locks all the internal pieces in place. You have to cut an opening in the cap for the cable to exit the case. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Karlsson Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Thanks, and sorry about the typo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Radlauer Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Here is my updated version with the REAN..I like these a lot more than the Switchcraft...Plus NO cutting! Tomorrow I do some TA5s..Maybe then I'll like my zaxcom more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Toline Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Beautiful work Matt. How do you get the caps so perfect? Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Wexler Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 I have to say that Matt's execution of these low-profile right angle connectors is about the best I've seen. I have done quite a few of these myself and they have turned out nice, but none quite so perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan McL Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Thanks, Eric, look forward to putting them in place on the cart. Also look forward to hearing how Matt fabricated his lovely caps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Radlauer Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Thanks guys! That means alot coming from you 2! :-) The caps are well... Just caps. Mostly aesthetic. It takes a little more time for this part and i mix probably 70/30 hardener to resin so its not super runny. Too much and it runs.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Toline Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 I thought about using an epoxy filler but decided that with hot glue & a heat gun it's fairly easy to take the assembly apart to do any repairs that might be required down the road. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Radlauer Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 like I said Eric, the Epoxy is just aesthetic...The connector is mostly filled with hot glue..Then convered with epoxy to seal it and make it look perddy.. Given what these cables are used for its hard for me to believe that they would break...especially inside the connector...Sure the cable could break, but if your just using them to connect TX/RX to the mixer, the cable never moves.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted January 7, 2014 Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 Don't tempt Murphy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Norflus Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Not as nice as Matt's - but here are my TA5. The Rean connectors are much better for making low profile TA5 than the switchcraft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
100sideprojects Posted January 8, 2014 Report Share Posted January 8, 2014 Nice work Matt. Those connectors look clean. Eric's solution also looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RadoStefanov Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 Not as nice as Matt's - but here are my TA5. The Rean connectors are much better for making low profile TA5 than the switchcraft. jack where did you get the caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Norflus Posted August 27, 2014 Report Share Posted August 27, 2014 jack where did you get the caps? http://www.lowes.com/pd_139461-37672-881277_2z8vi+4294711044__?productId=3013234&Ns=p_product_price|0&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_price%7C0%26page%3D1&facetInfo=$1%20-%20$5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonG Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 I thought about using an epoxy filler but decided that with hot glue & a heat gun it's fairly easy to take the assembly apart to do any repairs that might be required down the road. Eric The biggest problem with many of these low profile right angle cables is that everything is glued together, making future repairs impossible. Good looking ahead Eric! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karl Wasserman Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 like I said Eric, the Epoxy is just aesthetic...The connector is mostly filled with hot glue..Then convered with epoxy to seal it and make it look perddy.. Given what these cables are used for its hard for me to believe that they would break...especially inside the connector...Sure the cable could break, but if your just using them to connect TX/RX to the mixer, the cable never moves.. Hey, Matt! Really beautiful work. Are you adding color (I'm assuming it's model paint) to the uncured 70/30 epoxy mix, or do you paint the hardened dome after the fact? I'm asking because, if it's painted, I'd be concerned about the paint scratching off after the fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Radlauer Posted August 28, 2014 Report Share Posted August 28, 2014 Hey, Matt! Really beautiful work. Are you adding color (I'm assuming it's model paint) to the uncured 70/30 epoxy mix, or do you paint the hardened dome after the fact? I'm asking because, if it's painted, I'd be concerned about the paint scratching off after the fact. Thanks Karl! Yes, I add paint to the epoxy before applying. The paint will definitely scratch off if you apply it after the epoxy hardens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonocary Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 How are you soldering connections? Do you strip the wire and then poke it through the drilled hole and solder inside the connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richmond Posted November 25, 2015 Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Used epoxy glue and paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Denton Posted June 4, 2019 Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 What type of paint do you add to the epoxy to color it? I tried acrylic ink but it affected the curing of the epoxy. Also when filling the XLR-f with hot glue after soldering, how do you fill without filling up the space behind the release button. This has been a big challenge for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Toline Posted June 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2019 Put a piece of pic-n-pluck foam around the release button parts before adding the hot glue. Advice from experience not a guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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