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Cart building day!!!


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After 2 days (and a lot of swearing) this is where I'm at. The wheels are 20inch by 4 inch fat wheels. They're made for drift trikes . http://slidestar.com.au/wp/shop/whopper-wheel-rim-powder-coat

With nothing but time on my hands these days (hence resurrecting an old thread) doing a lot of research on things, did a deep dive into carts and really like yours! I was curious how you attached the

The handle is an accessory offered by Maytec.   Trev

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Actually the wheels are really light. One of the main reasons I built this was that my old cart had very small wheels and where a pain to get through the bush/gavel/sand, which I need to do a lot.

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Its not 8020 its by a company called Maytec. They're a German company but have a Branch in Australia. They have a brilliant design software called may-cad. Its super easy to work with, keeps a running tab on parts, cost and overall weight.

http://www.may-cad.org/en/p1.htm

The wheels are light because they're
to run at a low PSI for sand and gravel. As such it's nice thick rubber as well.

The Cantar is suspended via a Ronford Baker style camera quick release. This makes going to bag mode quick and easy. The sliding mechanism has been a real pain, but I think I've worked it out now.

812136f9adf11df91374534970bd8481.jpgb2e311b52b05a4330e04ae5e1f448ebf.jpg

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All side panels have a quick release pin, making easy access to the interior.bcfa48822aca904747b794b61c9471ce.jpg

 

20170706_142149.jpgI've got a big handle for the back and small handles for the sides, just haven't installed them yet4841b2b9bef46ef0a1326c56fd35a49f.jpg
 

20170706_142253.jpg

The antenna mast and mounting hardware are made by chinhda df8ea394c1293efbc4fb93b70dd648bf.jpg

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The inboard wheel design was for 2 reasons. Making it narrow enough for easy access through doors was the first. With the fat tyres, over all width would have been over 700mm. However the main reason was due to how I transport the cart. I dont have a van, I drive a ute (what you guys call a pickup truck) and so space is limited. With my follow cart in the back, I had very limited width for the main cart.

 

I've found it to be very stable. The only negative is that the tipping point seems off. While my old cart was 4 times as heavy, tipping it onto the back wheels for moves was really simple. This cart feels like the weight is too far in the front half.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 06/07/2017 at 7:33 AM, thope said:

I've got a big handle for the back and small handles for the sides, just haven't installed them yet4841b2b9bef46ef0a1326c56fd35a49f.jpg

I would highly recommend extending the depth of your handle (if you are not already doing this!) so match the depth of the wheels. By having them perfectly aligned they are easier to push (as you are not leaning forward over the wheels), they are more secure during transport (as they can be tightly ratchet strapped to the side of a van so won't move around as much), if you incorporate wheels they can wheel into vehicles on their back (not necessary if you own a van though and can transport it upright all the time).

Did you engineer the holes yourself or did they do it for you?

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Thanks for all your kind words!
I've had some significant problems to solve but im definitely making progress. I've had to change the location of the axel which made the overall distribution of weight better. It still feels stable and has a nice balance when it's tipped on its back wheels for transport.

Matt, I really like those front castors. Maybe I'll see how things go after working with it for a while.

The handle is the width of the trolley. Here it is in position for a sense of perspective.

Just waiting on a few custom parts from the fabricator before I can get the gear in.  

All the aluminium extrusion came cut and ready to put together. Ive had to do a few small machining jobs to fix problems and I built and threaded the steel rod which makes the axel.

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20170710_202811.jpg

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