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Robert Buncher

416 end cap

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The end cap on my venerable 416 has pulled off a couple times when removing a softie. What would be the best thing to use to glue it back on without it being a permanent bond or messing with the sound. Thanks, Bob

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Since it's off just take a look inside down the barrel to see what would be obscured: my guess is sellotape around the edge would do it, trying not to cover the front.

 

I don't have a 416 nor have pulled one apart but have pulled apart it's ancient predecessor, the 805: to find the interference tube inside is in fact a tube with holes along its length (bearing little relationship to the grooves on the fancy exterior) - the important part however is not to cover the (slightly expanding) holes at the mouth of the tube.

 

So a ring of ordinary sellotape/scotch around the side edge might well be fine making sure to not obscure the barrel front. I think the front cap of the 416 has 3 or 4mm edge to play with?

 

Jez

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Thats a good question followed by good advice...   

 

I thought about it and had no good answer...

Tape around the outside would work well and not "glue" the pieces together.. as suggested.. and being clear tape, you would most likely not notice the hack..

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Thanks for the suggestion. I ran some clear packing tape from the side of the cap down along the sections of the tube with no slots, so not covering any openings. 

I’ll see how that holds. 

Bob

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Iif that doesn't work and you don't want to tape it up what about a replacement shell  from Sennheiser.  I'm sure they'd sell you a nice new one. 

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Bob, I actually just meant a small ring of tape around the barrel at the end. Looking first at the 'real' interference tube inside the barrel making sure not to cover the 'final' hole. This all being based on my experience of the old 805, not a 416: but whatever is inside the latter, do the smallest possible mend making sure to not be obscuring any 'hidden interior' holes/slots/whatever.

 

(Glue of course would obscure nothing inside nor out, but could be somewhat permanent)!

 

J

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Mr Teas,

Inside the upper part of the tube, directly underneath a circle of screen, is a type of filling or padding. I could not see beyond that and really didn’t want to be digging into a mic that has been performing well. 

Are you saying that it is ok to cover over a couple of the first slots?

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22 hours ago, Robert Buncher said:

Mr Teas,

Inside the upper part of the tube, directly underneath a circle of screen, is a type of filling or padding. I could not see beyond that and really didn’t want to be digging into a mic that has been performing well. 

Are you saying that it is ok to cover over a couple of the first slots?

 

Hi Robert - 'maybe yes, maybe no!'

 

I'm basing this on my taking apart an 805 which was the '60s long mic which developed into the 815/816 and 415/416: inside the outer tube, inside the 'padding' (basic windshielding), in the 805 the interference tube was (surprisingly to me) a metal tube with little holes drilled along it along the top - and nowhere near as many as the slots suggested in the outer tube. Importantly however the diameter of the holes slightly but gradually increased at the mouth end: so I would assume it's important sound-wise not to cover the last hole(s) with any mend. Perhaps the 416 (or mics later than the 805) didn't have the internal metal tube beneath the padding - but if it is there I would run a little finger or cotton bud inside to locate the 'final hole' (or holes if more than one line - or indeed slots if that's the case). If the innards are such just make sure you don't tape over any part of the final hole. If however there is nothing within the padding that must mean that the (inside) of the outer tube is now the 'real' interference tube design and you possibly can't cover any outside slot.

 

I was surprised at finding the inner interference tube a few years back simply because I'd never been told or read about it in 20+ years of using MKH shotguns! I have no doubt the design will have changed but the difference between the inside and the outside was so significant I have been intrigued (and wanted to pull apart a 416) ever since.

 

If you can't see or feel inside the 416 however (or if the design has radically changed) I would just go with a spot of epoxy and you wouldn't be obscuring anything nor altering the sound.

 

Best, Jez

 

 

WAIT ! Sorry I understand - I think the 'filling/padding' you're talking about is just a short bung of sponge inside the tube? For 'from the front' basic wind shielding?

 

If so does it look like there is secondary inner tube or is all obscured?

 

We might well have to wait for a (good) Samaritan here with a dead 416 to pull it apart and tell us! I would guess it's just a short bung up front but I wouldn't want to encourage any needless destruction that you're trying to avoid! Go with the smallest amount of tape you can - a few millimetres, obscuring nothing!

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