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mono, December 12, 2018 in Current
Who thought surfing near Fresno would be a thing?
Definitely an engineering marvel but I'll take my hometown breaks of San Clemente / Trestles any day!
Cool Mono! That video's a supplement to William Finnegan's article in the current issue of The New Yorker:
Kelly Slater’s Shock Wave
The best surfer in history made a machine that creates perfect conditions on demand. Will his invention democratize surfing or despoil it?
Also Finnegan knows surfing. Check out his Pulitzer-Prize Winning memoir. It's really good:
Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
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