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Tatiana

Planning a Wireless Hop with Alexa Mini

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Hey everybody!

 

I have a shooting soon of some short documentaries and I am deciphering the best way to set the sound.

 

So, we're going to work with an Alexa Mini (already that's a problem). The director wants a reference to the camera and I was thinking of creating a Wireless Hop with a sennheiser G3 (it's what I have on hand and there's no budget for something better). I have a sound device mixpre 6 with output 3.5 jack to which I want to connect a 3.5mm Stereo Splitter, 3 Males, to connect 2 G3 transmitters, one that goes to the receiver connected to the Alexa Mini with a male adapter xlr to 5 pin lemo. And another to the receiver of the director so that he has reference as well.

 

Is this approach crazy? Using a splitter in the output damages the signal? Or connected to 2 transmitters? I appreciate all the comments.

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Generally speaking your approach would work (although I'm not sure what you mean with "3 Males") but...

 

- first of all why don't you just use one transmitter from the mixpre to two receivers on the same frequency?

- as for receivers, don't forget that you need an IEM series G3 for the director (or a portable headphone amp)

- be aware that a normal 100series G3 only outputs only hot mic level/low line level, while the mini only accepts line level, so the feed on the mini will have to be boosted digitally.

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1 hour ago, chrismedr said:

- as for receivers, don't forget that you need an IEM series G3 for the director (or a portable headphone amp)

 

You can also use a regular receiver, even without a headphone amp. You can plug into it directly. You‘ll only hear the audio in one of your cans (which you can solve with a stereo-mono adapter) and of course there’s no volume control, but it‘ll work. Still, the IEM (now in its 4th generation, so could be G3 or G4, or even G2) is the much smoother solution. 

 

23 hours ago, Tatiana said:

with a male adapter xlr to 5 pin lemo

 

You probably already know this, but remember for the Mini to get a mini Lemo

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Thank you so much!

 

Actually today I did some camera tests and the wireless did not work very well, the signal was very low and I had to put the gain level on the camera super high, which has no preamps, so I decided to throw a direct XLR line from the mixer to the lemo adapter. . It worked fine, it just did not give me the independence that I wanted, but the gain in the Alexa was on 0 and I just went up the mixer's output.

 

Another question, in mixpre 6 can only change the frame rate by connecting it to the camera with an HDMI or Aux? There is no other way?

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7 minutes ago, Tatiana said:

Another question, in mixpre 6 can only change the frame rate by connecting it to the camera with an HDMI or Aux? There is no other way?

 

 

The Mixpre 6 just has a TC reader so it needs to be fed by sync box or the camera's HDMI output (still can't get that to work with my camera). Recently I've used a Denecke JB-1 to feed the mixpre though it's aux input. 

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8 minutes ago, CineStrega said:

 

 

The Mixpre 6 just has a TC reader so it needs to be fed by sync box or the camera's HDMI output (still can't get that to work with my camera). Recently I've used a Denecke JB-1 to feed the mixpre though it's aux input. 

 

One again the problem with the independence right? You must be connected to camera all times, but in this case the frame rate for default in the mixer is 30fps right?

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6 minutes ago, Tatiana said:

 

One again the problem with the independence right? You must be connected to camera all times, but in this case the frame rate for default in the mixer is 30fps right?

 

I just looked at a file in wave agent, it's 30fps ND. The 3 and the 6 don't have clocks aside from the time of day settings so in order to get frame accurate time code you need to feed the recorders time code reader. You don't necessarily need to be connected to camera if you have a pair of small sync boxes you can set them with an app on your phone and have one feeding the recorder and one feeding the camera. 

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2 minutes ago, CineStrega said:

 

I just looked at a file in wave agent, it's 30fps ND. The 3 and the 6 don't have clocks aside from the time of day settings so in order to get frame accurate time code you need to feed the recorders time code reader. You don't necessarily need to be connected to camera if you have a pair of small sync boxes you can set them with an app on your phone and have one feeding the recorder and one feeding the camera. 

 

Awesome!! Thank you so much, I start shooting tomorrow so for the next time I'll bring those, for now I guess I'll change it later in wave agent. Thanks again!

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