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On 9/11/2019 at 12:25 PM, Janik Hampe said:

 

I´ll get some Lycra and test out, how flexible it is. Of course I´ll avoid any glueing or stitching if possible. I´ll also look up UV curing adhesives and keep them in mind.

 

 

Well, that´s quite an engineering problem when using 3d printing as manufacturing method. Until now I haven´t been able to design such a mechanism that is reliable, rattle free and doesn´t use lots of material (affecting the sound) at the same time.

I know what you mean.  I was thinking instead of some metal clips or something similar that could secure the two halves together.

 

On 9/11/2019 at 12:25 PM, Janik Hampe said:

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Allen,

 

I have two rolls of PETG here but I´ve never been able to produce quality prints with it. Because of it´s hygroscopic nature, it soakes up lots of humidity from the air. When I was trying it out, it produced bubbly, soft and mushy, almoast foam-like prints that were stupid easy to bend. I suppose it´s the humidity. Or could it be something else?

 

Do you experience similar behaviour? And do you de-humidify your PETG before printing? I´m thinking about getting a food dehydrator for this.

 

On 9/11/2019 at 12:25 PM, Janik Hampe said:

 

I´ll get some Lycra and test out, how flexible it is. Of course I´ll avoid any glueing or stitching if possible. I´ll also look up UV curing adhesives and keep them in mind.

 

 

Well, that´s quite an engineering problem when using 3d printing as manufacturing method. Until now I haven´t been able to design such a mechanism that is reliable, rattle free and doesn´t use lots of material (affecting the sound) at the same time.

I was thinking of metal clips or similar that could secure the two halves together.  Not built into the cage itself.

 

On 9/11/2019 at 12:25 PM, Janik Hampe said:

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Allen,

 

I have two rolls of PETG here but I´ve never been able to produce quality prints with it. Because of it´s hygroscopic nature, it soakes up lots of humidity from the air. When I was trying it out, it produced bubbly, soft and mushy, almoast foam-like prints that were stupid easy to bend. I suppose it´s the humidity. Or could it be something else?

 

Do you experience similar behaviour? And do you de-humidify your PETG before printing? I´m thinking about getting a food dehydrator for this.

 

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16 hours ago, berniebeaudry said:

I know what you mean.  I was thinking instead of some metal clips or something similar that could secure the two halves together.

 

Hm, nice thought. I could imagine some cleverly bent spring steel to work for this. And the halves would need to overlap in some way to avoid any side movement. Good Idea, thanks!

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On 8/29/2019 at 5:28 PM, Dalton Patterson said:

@Janik Hampe 

 

Could you print me one? I want it for CMC5. Make that two please. I’ll break one most likely. 

 

I only need the frame. I’ll work on fitting the fabrics and glueing.  I’ll document and send you all results and tricks. I worked on some waterproof Lav Mic cages back in 2012, they were very successful. 

 

Ive been meaning to make a baseball but haven’t seen any frames until now! 

 

Best,

 

D

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Oball-Activity-Toy-4-inch/dp/B00ZRD99C0

 

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On 8/28/2019 at 2:23 PM, Janik Hampe said:

 

 

Hi everybody,

I started a new DIY project. Since I really enjoy this forum and the wisdom shared I´d like to give something back. Here I´ll share the progress of this project with you.

 

The situation

I have a matched pair of Oktava MK-012 with cardioid capsules and use them for AB / ORTF stereo field recordings. I´d like to have good wind protection for them.

 

Because I own a 3D printer and like to design functional parts I chose to give this approach a try before buying Rycote Baby Ball Gags or something similar. If everything works out I plan on buying just the fur from Rycote. For software I used Fusion 360 and Cura which both are free for non-commercial use.

 

 

The 3D model

I began with modeling the Oktava MK-012 to have a reference. This was pretty easy by just taking measurements and entering them into Fusion 360.

 

mk012.jpg

 

Because the capsule´s diameter is bigger than the rest of the microphone´s body I had to come up with some technique to open up the blimp for mounting and unmounting.

 

Rycote´s twist-to-lock mechanism is great but hard to model and close to impossible to 3D print for several reasons. Moreover that I refused to have the blimp split in the middle because of the increased amount of the mechanism´s material beeing right next to the capsule and probably affecting the sound.

 

My solution to this problem was a screw-on mechanism with 3D printed threads in the back of the blimp. I already printed threads as small as M4 so these bigger threads shouldn´t be a problem.

 

screw.jpg

 

So there´s one small part with outer threads which stays on the microphone and there´s the blimp with an opening in the back big enough for the capsule to pass through and inner threads. Here´s the complete design in it´s momentary version:

 

v1.0.jpg

side_split_view.jpg

 

The first print

Getting the 3D model to be printable was a real hassle. As some of you might know, 3D printers can print overhangs up to 45 degrees. Above that I get´s complicated because your are basically printing in mid air. It all depends on the print temperature beeing not to high and cooling down the printed material as quickly as possible. After 3 failed prints and approximately 15 hours of printing time waisted I finally I was able to get my first half of the blimp. One part of the solution was to reduce the ambient temperature around the printer. Another part of the solution was to actually print faster, to reduce the chance of the filament getting too soft before entering the print nozzle resulting in a mess.

 

I´m printing in grey PLA from the german supplier DAS FILAMENT. The print bed is a sheet of PEI glued onto a glass plate. No heated bed. Print settings: 40mm/s, 180°C. I split up the blimp in two printable parts.

 

IMG_20190827_215449.jpg

IMG_20190827_234958.jpg

 

This first successful one took about 5 hours to print. The look and feel is amazingly similar to my full rycote blimp. It is quite strong, can be bent with force without cracking and has very good layer adhesion. And all of this at material costs of ~50ct.

 

 

Coming up next: solvent welding

Now the next step will be to print the other half. Then I´ll be sovlent welding both parts together using either Dichloromethane or Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Both of them are quite toxic and often times used in paint strippers. This connection will be as stong and as flexible as the main material to ensure no weak points appear when using it in more extreme conditions.

 

Questions, opinions and suggestions appreciated!

 

To be continued...

 




Haa that looks really nice !!! this is exactly how Cinela worked :)  i rem member the guy that started it all talking exactly about this shape he made for a soundguy wanting a small blimp for a documentary , his first blimp :) 

I am following this one !! i dont have use for blimps myself anymore but hell who does not like a really nice done propper DIY adventure !

 

On 9/11/2019 at 3:32 PM, Jim Rillie said:

Except Nagra and Aaton always have it reversed Red for left, Green for right. Some sort of esoteric colour code  designed to drive us all nuts! LOL.  

Edit

<Oh, just noticed in another thread about the nautical reference. Makes some kind of sense.>

 

 

Haha yeah its exactly not as you expect :) hehe noticed that to :) thank god there is such a thing like post.... and maybe some phone calls hehe or i would be screwed ;)

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