Derek H Posted October 20, 2019 Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 Building some long RG8x runs and curious about how others handle the pin connection. As I see it one has the following options for dealing with the pin. 1) just crimp it to the bare copper stranded conductor. No solder. 2) crimp it bare then solder through the little hole a bit 3) tin the stranded conductor then crimp the pin on. 4) tin. Then crimp. Then solder again through little hole. 5) just solder it, no crimp. I think that covers all possible scenarios... For those who know, or think they do what’s your method? And for the record I’m specifically referring to Belden RG8X (9258) with Amphenol 112533 BNCs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Tuzo Posted October 20, 2019 Report Share Posted October 20, 2019 I keep the center conductor nice and tight, but don’t pre-tin. Instead, coat thoroughly with flux, then slide the pin on. When you solder through the hole, the flux will help the solder flow inward, thus tinning the conductor and making solid contact with the pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted October 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 And you don’t crimp the pin afterward? You don’t have trouble with the dielectric melting/deforming or the center conductor melting a channel dangerously close to the braid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Tuzo Posted October 21, 2019 Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 For rg8, I don’t crimp the pin. For 8x and 58, as well as 75 ohm cable, I do (but I don’t solder those). With a properly hot iron (think work station, not a 25 watt pencil iron), I can make the solder without melting the dielectric. I use flux and a well tinned tip (with kester leaded solder) to help with heat transfer and flow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted October 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 Thanks Wyatt. I’m talking about 8x. I made one last week where I tinned the center stranded conductor then slid the pin over and crimped it. Seems to work great. My thinking being weld all the strands together helping with conductivity and add also a hair of thickness so the crimp gets a good bite. I like the idea of more solder for conductivity sake but worried about making the connection unreliable because of the very easy to melt dielectric. Or just making the pin too thick with unintentional solder wetting and having it not fit correctly in the housing. I understand what you’re saying with the good iron and flux, kester solder etc. I’m covered there. In reality I doubt there’s much measurable difference between methods but durability is also a consideration. thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalton Patterson Posted October 21, 2019 Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 Crimp is mechanically superior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek H Posted October 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 Ok, you could crimp and solder. Best of both worlds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Tuzo Posted October 21, 2019 Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 I somehow totally missed that you were originally asking about 8x, and assumed the heavy stuff. My mistake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalton Patterson Posted October 21, 2019 Report Share Posted October 21, 2019 Redundant. Solder will add resistance to the signal path. If you need extra strength, use additional strain relief ( heat shrink tubing). Also, be very careful when stripping the cable. Make certain not to disturb the insulation jacket, the direction the wires are turning needs to be kept the same. Clean with %100 alcohol and scrub with a clean flux brush, wear gloves, measure twice and don't use any tools without a perfect sharp edge. More... When the flux is heated it removes surface oxidation from the metal being soldered, allowing the solder to flow correctly on the material as well as forming a good mechanical and electrical connection to the base metal. Residual oxidation on the metal being soldered leads to poor quality connections and lower mechanical strength in the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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