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Smart battery power 4 core cable

Tobi A

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They have 20 awg as well. I don’t think you’re going to find 4-core less than 6mm thick overall. 



According to this chart even 22awg should be good for up to 7 amps for our purposes. How much juice do you need for this application?



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Yup. I haven’t used it personally but I think this wire from pacer would be a good choice because it’s made for boats so should be high strand count, flexible and tinned. 

I’m about to order some 16 gauge boat cable to make heavier 4-pin battery and power supply cables with. 

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  • 2 years later...

Necrobumping this thread as I'm currently looking for such a cable.


Audio star quad cables are either a bit too thick for the Hirose and TA4 connectors (Gotham GAC 4/1, Mogami W2534, etc.) or the wires are only 26AWG and thus a bit too thin for the current the SD 833 might draw when fully loaded (Mogami "Mini Quad" W2893, Sommer Cable Cicada 4, etc.).


After some research, I decided that butchering a cheap USB-C to USB-C cable is the easiest way to go.


According to the USB-C specification, "All USB-C cables must be able to carry a minimum of 3 A current (at 20 V, 60 W) but some can also carry high-power 5 A current (at 20 V, 100 W)."


USB-C cables have two larger wires for power delivery and a few smaller wires for data and clock signals. Exactly what we are looking for.

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Let us know how it goes. Seems like a good idea but I’m sure there will be some unexpected snags like difficult to cut or solder metals or lots of foil shielding. Trying to buy that kind of specialty cable in small quantities can be difficult to source and expensive so it might make sense to just repurpose a high quality USB-C from Anker or one of the better brands.

I did find a perfect cable for Hirose connectors from Alphawire that is super flexible and rubbery and just the right diameter for the cable clamp (the hardest part to get right with these) with two nice conductors and no shield. I could look up the model number if anyone is interested. I ordered just a sample because I think the minimum order quantity was way too much. 


 Re-reading my posts from 2020 I can update that I did try some of the marine electrical wires I was mentioning and found it either too thick in the case of the boat cable or too stiff and prone to kinking in the case of the lighter gauge hook up wire. 

If you’re looking something heavier for 4-pin or Speakon connectors I can recommend canare quad speaker cable. High stand count, flexible and high quality insulation. Though there are many options for larger diameter power cable. 

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So I took the cheapest and widest available USB-C cable I could find, the $7.99 Ikea Lillhult USB-C to USB-C. This cable is rated for 3A and 480 Mbps.


Edit: I could've gone even cheaper with the $6.99 Ikea Lillhult USB-A to USB-C. The specs rate it for 3A and 480 Mbps as well.


Stripping the gray knitted textile braid reveals a normal cable with a diameter of approximately 4mm. Stripping the thin PVC jacket reveals a braided shield and stripping that shield reveals another layer of foil shielding, which is easy to cut away.


Now we find two approx. 24AWG wires (red and black) for power delivery, and three thinner approx. 28AWG wires (white, green and blue) for data transfer.


The wires are easy to twist and solder and the cable's outer diameter of approx. 4mm fits nicely in a Hirose connector, as well as a Rean or Switchcraft TA4. The rubber boot of the Switchcraft would need to be cut a bit shorter to accomodate the 4mm cable.


I don't think it would be easy nor practical to keep the gray knitted textile braid, as it strips away very easily while handling the cable once the USB-C connector was cut off. Perhaps taping it down or securing it with 5mm of shrink tube while stripping and soldering the wires could help.


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