Cleaning a Slate with a Stuck Label

[RunAndGun]

I've been using P-touch clear labels(black print) to label my slate(Denecke TS-C) and today after the shoot when I was taking them off, one of them de-laminated.  Meaning the top film with the print separated from the adhesive film layer, which remained on the slate(I've never seen this happen on a P-touch label that was on something for such a short time period: maybe 18 hours).  And the adhesive layer is now essentially laminated to the slate, because that portion of the label is so extremely thin there is essentially no way to scrape it off.  It's almost like super clear Scotch Tape, but only a fraction of the thickness.

 

I tried window cleaner, Pancro and some other "super duper cleaner", all to no avail.  Then I tried applying another label and even gaffe tape on top, hoping it would adhere enough to the film to pull it off like you do when a normal label or price tag doesn't come off something completely.  But that didn't do anything except make a mess and then scratch the leftover film where I tried cleaning it off again.   I used to have some really good adhesive remover and thought about buying some more to try, but the problem is, you can't really get to the true adhesive, because it's basically covered(protected) in a super thin plastic film.

 

So my question is, has anyone else had this happen and what did they do to get it off?  Or did you just have to live with it or get the face of the slate replaced, if it bothered you that much or started to look really bad?

[Barry M]

Razor blade, gently and obliquely applied to an edge might give you enough to peel the rest off. Perhaps some slight chance of scraping the surface. Or slicing off a fingertip.

[drpro]

Finger tips grow back, slates won't.

[Rick Reineke]

Heating the label some with a hair dryer loosens the adhesive, then pry an edge up with a razor blade so you can grab it and slowly pull it off

I am not sure about using  goo-b-gone adhesive solvent.

[Izen Ears]

Try an alcohol soak. That is, apply it all over and leave it a few minutes, to soak under that little skin.  It may dissolve away?

[RunAndGun]

Thanks for all the quick replies, guys.  A razor blade is kind of my last resort, because of the obvious reason: possibly scratching, gouging or scuffing the acrylic surface and taking a ‘5 or 6’ problem to an ‘11’.  I didn’t think about a hair dryer.  People use heat guns/dryers all the time to help apply and remove decals.  And as I was afraid, the adhesive is so well protected by the plastic, by the way that the label came apart, there is no way to really get to it to dissolve it, because the solvent can’t get to the adhesive.  I tried soaking with pro grade Goo Gone and industrial strength Goof Off(in the metal can with the goggle & glove warning and designed to remove adhesive, asphalt, tar and dried paint).  The “label” just laughed at them both.  It’s so thin and so well sealed, it’s almost like a very light coat of clear matte paint(clear coat) was sprayed on the face in this spot.  
 

I’ll post a picture, later.  The system doesn’t seem to like images coming from my iPad.

[Rick Reineke]

I would not use a heat gun, they typically put out way to much heat than what you need. You want 'warm' .. not 'hot'.

Use the razor blade just to lift the label's edge .. do not to scrape it off like a decal on glass..  Lifting the label's edge with the blade should not cause any damage to the slate.

[RunAndGun]

Here, you can see that the label itself is gone.  The best way to describe it is a super thin layer of film bonded to the adhesive and protecting the adhesive from being dissolved while also being so thin/such a low profile that it's impossible to scrape anything away(there is no "edge" like if a normal label was on there)(the picture actually makes it look thicker than it is).  I'm working the next two days, so it may be Sunday before I get a chance to take a hairdryer and razor blade to it.

 

I'll let y'all know what happens.

 

*Edit*  I guess the new security on the forum is preventing images from being uploaded directly from users computers.  I keep getting an unknown server error(error code -200).

 

[RunAndGun]

Looks like you can upload pics, again.

[tourtelot]

Every "sticky" has a correct solvent.

 

In this case, the choice that will take off the sticky and won't damage your slate is good old common lighter fluid.  Alcohol will not work.  Goof-Off will eat the plastic overlay.  Paint thinner?  Gasoline?  No, no, no!

 

Buy a can of Zippo.  Fairly non-toxic on the large scale of volatile fluids, won't eat plastic and will take the sticky right off.

 

Been using it for years and it is my favorite.

 

D. 

[Rick Reineke]

Goo Gone Original is allegedly plastic safe  and states: "can be used on carpet & upholstery, clothing, any hard surfaces including glass, laminate, metal, wood, plastic, vinyl, windows, ceramic, granite, flooring, countertops, tile and wood".  I used it on mic cables and many other things w/o any noticeable damage. I never needed it for a slate though.

[RunAndGun]

Well, I can attest to even the industrial strength Goo Gone and Goof Off being safe, at least on the plastic/acrylic face of a slate.

 

Nothing is working to remove the leftovers of this label.  The way that the label came apart, the adhesive is for all intents and purposes hermetically sealed to the acrylic, as impossible as that may seem(I've been using P-Touch labels for almost 25 years and I've never seen anything like this, at least with a label that was on something for such a short time period).  It's not sticky on the surface.  It's covered by an incredibly thin layer of film that pulled off of the label.  I even tried the hairdryer and razor blade, and as I feared, I gouged the face of the slate, but was still unable to remove anything.

 

I guess I'll reach out to Denecke tomorrow and see how much a replacement face is.  I presume it's just held on by some type of adhesive or double-sided tape.

[Izen Ears]

Isn’t that space always covered by labels?  Does it matter enough to get a new face?  Those are pretty cheap, but I think Denecke may have to do the swap.  They’ve done it every time I’ve gotten a new face, but maybe you can do it at home!

[RunAndGun]

I reached out to Denecke and they replied quickly and said the backlighting is actually attached to the faceplate. It is only one cable that has to be unplugged/replugged to the circuit board inside, but you only get one shot at lining up the face plate, though, because of the adhesive tape that is used to attach it to the aluminum chassis.  

[480sound]

The Medical Industry makes a Universal Adhesive Remover called Remove by Smith & Nephew

available at Amazon will take glue off of anything.

[RunAndGun]

Appreciate the recommendation.  I have something similar(maybe even stronger?), UNI-SOLVE adhesive remover, which is made by Smith & Nephew, as well(I have a very small, wearable, disposable medical device that pretty much requires this to remove it).

 

Soaked it down and let it sit for a while and scrubbed it, too.  Nothing.  The problem is, none of the adhesive removers can get to the actual adhesive. 

[Dalton Patterson]

Best stuff I found for removing old gaff tape residue is WD-40. I went through all the usual suspects and an experienced set dresser suggested WD-40. My only worry is that it might discolor or dissolve the actual slate acrylic. Please test accordingly. Good luck!