Jump to content

Rewire Sanken Cos-11D (XLR) to 3.5mm Sennheiser-type tip


Jonmd123

Recommended Posts

Hi all, 

 

I have a Senken Cos-11d lav mic that is currently terminated with an XLR that allows 48v phantom power. I want to change this to a Sennheiser-type 3.5mm TRS tip, but am getting mixed info from Sanken and Sennheiser.
 

I own the G4 500 series wireless transmitter/receiver from Sennheiser (which is a balanced signal). Most literature — and in fact the wiring diagram Sanken sent me, is for the g3 unbalanced series. In this, it tells me to combine the ground and shield on the TRS side. But wouldn’t this unbalance my cos-11D? 
 

does anyone know the specific wiring for the G4 500 series Sennheisers that maintains a balanced signal. Or perhaps it doesn’t matter as long as the receiver sends a balanced signal to my field recorder? 


GOAL: cut off the XLR end of my Sanken Cos-11D and solder on a TRS 3.5mm Jack so I can use the mic with the Sennheiser G4 500 series wireless pack, that uses a balanced signal. 
 

any help would be much appreciated! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cable resilience. So the copper hairs do not bend into a crimp and break as easily. Also insulation, and spacing inside the cable jacket. I’ll make the video. I just have to hire an instagram social media managing firm to handle all my fans from my Facebook page…NOT. I only need some COS11 volunteers. I only own DPA. 

I started out playing with solder in 6th grade. Probably not the most healthy but I am pretty good with an iron these days. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most lavaliere mics are inherently unbalanced, and most body pack transmitters do not supply Phantom Pwr either,  so you do not need the current XLR Phantom Pwr supply converter/adapter.
I am not sure about the Sennheiser G 500 series Tx, but the 100 series plug feeds the needed bias current on the same terminal (tip) as the 'mic level' audio.  The ring terminal being tied to the shield along with the ground. I am not sure if a resistor (or what value) is 'recommended' to wire the COS-11 for body pack Tx usage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have had no luck whatsoever in trying to cut away the insulation of the individual conductors of a COS11 before soldering. which is probably entirely down to not having a proper insulation cutter, and instead using a blade and carefully trying to only cut the insulation.

what i have been doing for many years instead, is getting a blob of solder onto the tip of the iron, and pushing the wire through that to burn away the insulation and tin the wire. the trick is to not take too long otherwise you will burn it, and the conductor inside will fall off.
it takes a bit of practice, but if you are confident with a soldering iron, and have the right shaped tip for the iron (i think i have a 2.3mm chisel tip) this will work.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Rick Reineke said:

Most lavaliere mics are inherently unbalanced, and most body pack transmitters do not supply Phantom Pwr either,  so you do not need the current XLR Phantom Pwr supply converter/adapter.
I am not sure about the Sennheiser G 500 series Tx, but the 100 series plug feeds the needed bias current on the same terminal (tip) as the 'mic level' audio.  The ring terminal being tied to the shield along with the ground. I am not sure if a resistor (or what value) is 'recommended' to wire the COS-11 for body pack Tx usage.

Yes, the inputs on the ew500 series are unbalanced afaik. Same as ew100. Tip of the jack for mic-level and ring for line-level signals.

The output of the ew500 Rx is balanced, however.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/12/2023 at 11:45 PM, Matt Radlauer said:

I get a dab of solder on the tip of the iron and basically burn it off and tin the lead at the same time. A little bit of flux helps as well.
This has worked extremely well for me. I use a Hako with a very thin tip around 550 F

You know, I like to use 840F so perhaps I just used too much heat!  I too have decent soldering skills and this is the method I used.  The solder stuck, but no sound came out so I gave up.

 

Yes please post a video!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Izen Ears said:

You know, I like to use 840F so perhaps I just used too much heat!  I too have decent soldering skills and this is the method I used.  The solder stuck, but no sound came out so I gave up.

 

Yes please post a video!

840F is a bit too hot.. I had to play around a bit with temps to find where it wouldn't burn off too much material.. 550F seems to be the sweet spot for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, just to be clear. This method works but is the wrong wrong wrong way to do it. A thermal stripper is preferred but a straight razor and rubber eraser block will work without compromising the insulation. You’re doing other things like compromising the insulation and wicking solder past the recommended distance creating a un-flexing joint that will eventually bend and snap. 🫰 

I get it. We’re not working in avionics or aerospace. Just sayin. I’ve had connection snap in between takes and you would have thought we had a dying surgery patient on the operating table. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Dalton Patterson said:

Ok, just to be clear. This method works but is the wrong wrong wrong way to do it. A thermal stripper is preferred but a straight razor and rubber eraser block will work without compromising the insulation. You’re doing other things like compromising the insulation and wicking solder past the recommended distance creating a un-flexing joint that will eventually bend and snap. 🫰 

I get it. We’re not working in avionics or aerospace. Just sayin. I’ve had connection snap in between takes and you would have thought we had a dying surgery patient on the operating table. 

A video would be very helpful.  Or if you could elaborate on the eraser part.  I get using a razor instead of a stripper, I do that all the time.  But getting those tiny hairs of copper separated from the tiny fibers so a solder connection is possible, I am lost.  I've tried a lighter to burn off those fibers, but that didn't really work.  How does an eraser get rid of those fibers?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/20/2023 at 1:14 PM, tourtelot said:

Sorry Mr. D.  The "burn the insulation off with solder" works just fine in my experience.  Been doing it that way for a LONG time and can not ever attribute a failure to the method.

 

YMMV.

 

D.

What temp?  I bet I made the mistake of thinking one temp is the best for everything.  I made up a bunch of XLRs and TRSs today and at 750 it was so slow!  So I went back to 840 and it was much better.  But that may be way too hot for those tiny TA5 cups and those hairs they call wires inside a COS?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I solder most everything, including lacquer covered wire at 750F.  As I said above, if I'm doing a slew of XLRs or the like, I'll turn up to 850F.  Do remember that I am using lead solder and it behaves very differently the non-lead.  I kinda hate non-lead solder.  So even if I am soldering XLRs, if I am not making a morning of it, I don't bother to move the iron off 750F.

 

Long, long habit; I was taught to solder in the mid-70s by Paul Prestopino, long-time chief maintenance guy at Record Plant NYC.  That wasn't all he taught me . . . .   

 

I know, I'm old. :)

 

D.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...