Jan McL Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 OK case cart people, how are you securing your gear? 788t and IFB100 are velcro'ed. Cables, same. Mixer? Am fairly stumped. Tried velcro to the edges that protrude just enough to preclude a full-bottom velcro solution. Don't trust it. Could bungee from back to front, but that is a last resort since it feels dangerous to knobs & faders. Would love to bungee side-to-side as I do on the main cart, but the bolts that would hold the D-rings would interfere with the drawer underneath. Would add some space between the mixer's sliding shelf and the next drawer, but need all of that space as it now stands. I could cut a bolt-sized track in the drawer... Naw. Thoughts? Photographs of extant mixer anchors? Also interested in talking about how you guys wire carts. First you...then...then... kinda thing. Usually just dive in and I've never really been happy with the results. There's gotta be a better way. -- Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg sextro Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 In the rig I dismantled about a month ago (similar to yours, skb cases, same sliding shelf and an AD mixer) I used velcro to secure the mixer and it worked just fine. actually, it was a pain in the ass to get the mixer off, but not impossible. Curious how you plan on wiring the mixer to the 788? I had the same issue - mixer to a 744. One reason I dismantled the rig and decided to move to something else - I always had to spend time patching the mixer to the recorder when setting up/dismantling - even though I used panel mount connectors from the mixer to the skb case...It slowed me down and I was unhappy with the scenario. My suggestion would be to locate the mixer and 788 in the same case. You might need a taller chair as result - but you will have a hell of an easier time in the end I think. -Greg- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan McL Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Oh-yeah, Greg, Cabling was one of the first things that clearly had to be optimized some way. Just bought a bunch of cat5 pigtail baluns to string the whole thing together with 4 cat5 cables. Will leave the pigtails / baluns attached to the devices. The plan is to leave the 3 cases "built" but detachable, and minimize case-to-case cabling. So far, there are: four cat5's three antenna one audio - with the XLRF --> XLRM easily available (from mixer Aux 1 to IFB100 - boom private channel) one AC power cable from Powermax Ultra --> Furman three DC XLR4 cables Not TOO bad. All of the above tuck into their respective cases. What remains is a system to make sure they're accessible, rememberable, and visible. Check. As this progresses, may have to move some gear to cut down this case-to-case cabling even more. Fingers crossed. Surprised the velcro worked...found I could slip a piece of industrial velcro under the mixer chassis and just assumed there was too much 'space' between the bottom of the mixer and the shelf. Will give it a go based on your suggestion. Thanks! -- Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg sextro Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Hmm. I guess the AD mixer I have is different on the bottom side - there are no rubber feet or anything like that so there is no gap as cause for concern. If there are some rubber feet screwed onto the bottom of yours I suppose you could always just remove them. The cat5 cables sounds like a great way to go. Would love to see some pics when they are in place. Do you have to dismantle the rig to go up stairs? This was the other issue for me. -Greg- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Sorensen Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Hi Jan, Re. securing the mix panel. I use two strips of velcro on the bottom and these alluminium hinges made by Stanley. They come in a set for yard fence gates. Pop rivets tie the hinge base to the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Perkins Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 On my humble Carte d'Amore, I made "feet" for the mixer out of 1" wooden blocks, velcroed then to the bottom of the mixer and then velcroed the whole deal to the cart shelf. This has proved surprisingly secure (at least one instance of forgetting to tie down the cart in the van....) and made for a "basement" under the console where I could cross cables from the various sides and various accessories under the console out of sight, but yet easily changeable. phil p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan McL Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Ah-ha! Yes! All you guys thinking outside the box. It's a beautiful thing to see. Hinges. Pop rivets (why didn't I think of that?). Wood n' velcro. Brilliant. Thanks Messrs. Perkins and Sorensen. Hot diggity. There are no rubber feet on the bottom of the mixer; the side panels are taller than the main section by enough to make a difference in making solid contact with the shelf. I've got the AD255 (waiting for some new faders and a backup module - any day now). I've not yet flown this rig in the field, so don't know how it will fare with steps or anything else for that matter. This cart is for 2nd unit and one-off's that require self transportation. I usually stay away from set rather than hump up steps in any case, which is why I'm buying into the cat5 thing and maximized Zaxcom range this summer past. I fly out the receivers via cat5 if the cart is out of wireless range. The the additional cat5 baluns on board, I can also outboard the Comtek and IFB TX to set easily enough. Here's an image of one of the cart wiring tricks I'm using: -- Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan McL Posted January 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Hey, David, Nice cart How did you remove the round handle brackets from the mixer? Do you think their sliding shelf would fit in a standard 19" rack? If so, that might be an appropriate and elegant solution...build the Chinhda cart from the inside out...? Thanks! -- Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Waelder Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 How did you remove the round handle brackets from the mixer? I don't remember exactly. I recall that we called the Audio Development distributor and conferred before proceeding. But I think removal of the handle is pretty simple. I seem to remember pulling off a plastic cover to reveal four screws. But give the folks at Audio Dev. a call yourself before tearing into it. The Chinhda cart trays are all 18 inches wide so they will fit within a 19-inch rack case. We fitted out Steve Tibbo's cart that way. Tray depth is either 18-inches (standard) or 22.5-inches (for the Yamaha O1V) or 12-inches (utility). There are some weight liabilities to using rack cases so Chinhda has made only the one. He is considering revisiting that system, possibly using Euromodule cases rather than SKB. But don't hold your breath. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stacysound Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Good looking rig. FYI - I've attached my Cameo mixer with just Velcro and it's never budged. Even on a cart dump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johngooch Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Hi Jan, Re. securing the mix panel. I use two strips of velcro on the bottom and these alluminium hinges made by Stanley. They come in a set for yard fence gates. Pop rivets tie the hinge base to the shelf. Hi Kevin. Curious, why would you go with a velcro connection over using the threaded nagra type thumbscrew attachment points at the rear of your 208? Speed of detachment? john. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johngooch Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Hi Jan, Awhile back i think i remember that you were looking for a lightweight keyboard shelf. What did you eventually come up with? Also, did you install a patchbay to your cart? I am just starting to put my patchbay together now and I am still figuring out how to do it as efficiently as possible. First question i have is, what wire to use? I do not think I need canare star quad for a 5 inch connection that will never see the light of day. Or do I? I could use something that is lighter, and does not take up so much real estate. Good luck with your cart and thanks for sharing your triumphs and defeats! john. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPSharman Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Jan, I used Velcro on my heavier Mackie board, even when I used to transport my cart horizontally in the back of my Explorer. 2" strips on front and back, and one perpendicular down the middle. Now I always stay upright, and use 1" strips on the front and rear of the Solice, and find it quite difficult to remove intentionally. Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ao Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Hey, David, Nice cart How did you remove the round handle brackets from the mixer? Do you think their sliding shelf would fit in a standard 19" rack? If so, that might be an appropriate and elegant solution...build the Chinhda cart from the inside out...? Thanks! -- Jan the round handle brackets are held in place by two screws from the inside of the mixer. fader strips need to be removed on the left side, master output and comm module on the right side to gain access. the handle itself is held in to the arms with hex head machine screws. there may be some minor variation on the 255 but it must be similar. ao Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan McL Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Thx, ao. Thought it looked a tad more complicated than just prying off the plastic piece Removed the handle this summer, but ran out of time to remove the rest of the pieces to explore alternate mounting solutions. Have come to the conclusion that with a piece of velcro-coated corrugated plastic, secure contact with the shelf can be made. Will give it a go tomorrow. Thanks everyone. Great and helpful discussion. One of my team and another colleague are visiting this Friday for tech talk and late lunch if anyone's up for it. -- Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Sorensen Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Quote~ Hi Kevin. Curious, why would you go with a velcro connection over using the threaded nagra type thumbscrew attachment points at the rear of your 208? Speed of detachment? john. Hey John, I wanted to hold the cooper 208 more in the center of its chassis, just seemed like a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan McL Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Hi Jan, Awhile back i think i remember that you were looking for a lightweight keyboard shelf. What did you eventually come up with? Also, did you install a patchbay to your cart? I am just starting to put my patchbay together now and I am still figuring out how to do it as efficiently as possible. First question i have is, what wire to use? I do not think I need canare star quad for a 5 inch connection that will never see the light of day. Or do I? I could use something that is lighter, and does not take up so much real estate. Good luck with your cart and thanks for sharing your triumphs and defeats! john. Hiya, John, Lovely to hear from you. Trust that you are well since we last met and you pulled my bum out of the Philly fire I managed to cobble together a laptop mount, but this solution could certainly double for a keyboard. This is a short video of what I came up with: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fauxpress/4841156176/#secret2c4bfb75f7 What you see is the small tray from InStand: http://www.instand.com/Custom/custom.html#trays For the Virtually Indestructible Keyboard, this size is too small by an inch or so. Just ordered the larger tray for the main cart so I can use the smaller one on the 2nd Unit Cart to hold the clipboard and write on the sound reports. The articulating arm is from Manfrotto: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/554345-REG/Manfrotto_244RC_244RC_Variable_Friction_Magic.html Attached the quick release to the tray. Bingo. Strong enough to hold the 15" Macbook Pro, and more probably. I have not yet gotten any more deeply into incorporating a patch bay, though I'm sufficiently intrigued to begin again, particularly since building another cart. Let's do phone one day soon. -- Jan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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