Bang for the buck bag power?

[Vincent R.]

Thanks Richard. That's with eBay; you buy 10 you get 8 . I will see. Thinking of a low powered 3 channel bag with Trx900 to a hob. 2x RX. Hopefully this battery will give enough to shoot a day long

[NOLAfishwater]

I use this $200 153 watt hour battery. IMO its the best bang for the buck out there and you can buy.

http://www.bixnet.com/unpowbat.html

$20 VESA mount kit

http://www.bixnet.com/vesa150.html

[NOLAfishwater]

it fits perfect in the RM multi extreme. I personally do not carry my bag all day. mostly just sits in one place. the same company also has a smaller 98 Watt Hour battery for $149

• MP-100 http://www.bixnet.com/pm100.html
  
• Capacity: 98 Wh
  
• Weighs only 1.8 Lbs.
  

or even lighter than that:

http://www.bixnet.com/exnobapo80.html

• Capacity: 73 Wh
  
• Weighs only 1.4 Lbs
  

[NOLAfishwater]

http://www.bixnet.com/bxu05.html

superlight Weight: about 145g or 5 ounces

17 Watt Hour

$65

[Max Hirtenstein]

I highly recommend the Hawk Woods L-type distro that Rado mentioned earlier in the thread. With 2 Lenmar LIS970p batteries (7800 mAH each), I get something like 27 hours of power for a 302 + DR-680.

[Chase Yeremian]

I think I'll also give an update with the batteries I went with.

I ordered 2 of these http://www.paulcbuff.com/vmb88a.php

and 2 of the chargers as well.

They charge up to about 16.6 volts and they have a cutoff at 11v. I am able to power a nomad 8 with Zaxnet on, a QRX100 and charge my phone all day off one battery and get it to maybe 13v (according to the nomad display). I mean all day, I only power off during lunch generally.

Each battery being <90 bucks and chargers at <25 dollars I could not be happier. So far I have used them on easily 60 full days of shooting with no sign of memory loss. They charge pretty fast (maybe 4 hours) are relatively light weight and fit perfectly inside the back flap of my PEGZ1 bag. The connectors for the battery are cheap and easy to terminate so I made a few.

If nothing else would be a good inexpensive backup battery to have on hand for your NP1 setup or whatever else you are using.

-Chase

[hemmerlinj]

Maybe I can be of some help: "you moron buy your battery from hi price dealer who steal your money and I have the answer with 3 of your stupid dollars for battery that lasts longer than you will in this job since you give your equipment for nothing to do your stupid sh*t"

Jeff,

Are sure Oleg isn't your alter ego? That response was a little too good.

[Nick Campbell]

Anything cheaper than spending $225 for a distributer? I just need to power a Marantz PMD661/Shure FP-24 for hopefully a day or half-day. I was thinking of making my own using 8xAA battery holder for rechargeables but it might be out of my league.

[jason porter]

Nick, how are you currently powering your gear?

Anything cheaper than spending $225 for a distributer? I just need to power a Marantz PMD661/Shure FP-24 for hopefully a day or half-day. I was thinking of making my own using 8xAA battery holder for rechargeables but it might be out of my league.

[Nick Campbell]

Recheargeable AA's. 661 takes 4, FP-24 takes 2. Problem is they have different battery lives with the Marantz going for 3.5-5 hrs when not using phantom and the FP-24 lasting 3 or more at 15v. Would rather just change one thing when the juice dies, but don't think it's worth $250-300+ for me at this moment.

[Max Hirtenstein]

a quality battery system may not be the most glamorous purchase, but hoo-boy is it ever worth it. nothing like fumbling with AA's while your client is waiting around...

[jason porter]

I think you are right.

One affordable possibility might be Sony L-series batteries (7.2v) I know your FP-24 can handle it, but I don't know the voltage range for your recorder. If it can handle up to 8.5 v, you can use them.

If you know the voltage range of your recorder, send me a PM and I might be able to help you out.

Recheargeable AA's. 661 takes 4, FP-24 takes 2. Problem is they have different battery lives with the Marantz going for 3.5-5 hrs when not using phantom and the FP-24 lasting 3 or more at 15v. Would rather just change one thing when the juice dies, but don't think it's worth $250-300+ for me at this moment.

[Chase Yeremian]

Pretty heavy:

Weight 3.5 pounds total weight (total system, including battery and inverter)

Dimensions 2.75” x 4.3” x 7.8” dimensions including battery, latch and power switch protrusions

Hey I just wanted to point out there is no need for the inverter for bag power. It goes battery>BDS>components. Battery is maybe 1-1.5 pounds.

[Nick Campbell]

I'm having a hard time finding an L-type battery sled/plate. I need to run a Shure FP-24. It can range from 5-14v. It has a 5.5mm outer and 2.1mm inner DC in, pin positive sleeve negative. A cheap pre-built one would be fine as would a sled and cable (I can get it soldered locally). Can anyone point me in the right direction? I have a Marantz PMD611 but it can only do up to 5v and sips batteries without phantom power, so I am just going to focus on the more power-hungry FP-24.

Jason suggested I go with a 7.2v system for optimum efficiency, so preference to that over a 12v system.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Also: if anyone has one kicking around they want to sell, or wants to make one we can discuss prices for your time and labor.

[taylormadeaudio]

Hey I just wanted to point out there is no need for the inverter for bag power. It goes battery>BDS>components. Battery is maybe 1-1.5 pounds.

Actually, it depends on the components... most of the stuff we use requires DC, and thus confirms your assertion... some of the stuff some folks use (regardless of their reasoning) might just require AC power and thus an inverter... personally, I'm not sure why anyone would ever go this route for a bag rig, but stranger things have happened?

~tt

[Chase Yeremian]

Actually, it depends on the components... most of the stuff we use requires DC, and thus confirms your assertion... some of the stuff some folks use (regardless of their reasoning) might just require AC power and thus an inverter... personally, I'm not sure why anyone would ever go this route for a bag rig, but stranger things have happened?

~tt

Yeah good point, though I really hope people aren't running setups like that! (for their backs sake . I should of also pointed out that there is no need for an inverter in my bag setup! YMMV

[Nate C]

I'm having a hard time finding an L-type battery sled/plate. I need to run a Shure FP-24. It can range from 5-14v. It has a 5.5mm outer and 2.1mm inner DC in, pin positive sleeve negative. A cheap pre-built one would be fine as would a sled and cable (I can get it soldered locally). Can anyone point me in the right direction? I have a Marantz PMD611 but it can only do up to 5v and sips batteries without phantom power, so I am just going to focus on the more power-hungry FP-24. Jason suggested I go with a 7.2v system for optimum efficiency, so preference to that over a 12v system. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Also: if anyone has one kicking around they want to sell, or wants to make one we can discuss prices for your time and labor.

NIckp, http://www.lectrosonics.com/417-BATTSLED/View-details.html might do the trick. I couldn't find anywhere what the output voltage is, but an email to Lectro would garnish the answer.

Hawkwoods also make some interesting sleds but they are all 12v output.

Cheers Nate

[Nick Campbell]

Thanks. I have seen those but unfortunately they are over $100 just for the sled. I don't require something that sturdy, haha. I'm looking for a plastic sled I can have soldered with a cord for the FP-24. The 12v ones I've seen for $10-20 so looking in that price area.

[Nick Campbell]

http://www.adorama.com/VDVZS7000F.html

This plate takes L-series batteries, check. Wires out, check. Excuse me because I am new to this- so I can get this soldered with a pin/longer cord to power my FP 24, right?

[Vincent R.]

Yes. Check the mixer's manual to find out the positive negative wiring.

[SteveD]

Hello,

Long time lurker, first time poster..

I've been helping my son build his bag, and we've mined this site for all the information we could find.

He graduated from Columbia in Chicago, and is now working in the Chicago area.

Any how, being a hacker/maker I was wondering why no one is using power tool batteries. The batteries are available everywhere and have great amp hour ratings, and are cheap, or using something like this:

http://www.theultimatepowertrip.com.

When I looked onto powering his Sennheiser receivers from the bag, the DC-2 was 65 dollars, but the DC to DC converter with the same rating is 9 dollars.

As far as a battery monitor goes:

http://www.hobbyking...idproduct=10080

Just looking for some input, because I'm a outsider, and have no experience in your field at all.

Thanks,

[Vincent R.]

Hello,

Long time lurker, first time poster..

I've been helping my son build his bag, and we've mined this site for all the information we could find.

He graduated from Columbia in Chicago, and is now working in the Chicago area.

Any how, being a hacker/maker I was wondering why no one is using power tool batteries. The batteries are available everywhere and have great amp hour ratings, and are cheap, or using something like this:

http://www.theultimatepowertrip.com.

When I looked onto powering his Sennheiser receivers from the bag, the DC-2 was 65 dollars, but the DC to DC converter with the same rating is 9 dollars.

As far as a battery monitor goes:

http://www.hobbyking...idproduct=10080

Just looking for some input, because I'm a outsider, and have no experience in your field at all.

Thanks,

Weight. Those things can be quite heavy. Since your already browsing hobbyking, take a look at their lipo batteries. That's a good weight/Mah ratio.

[SteveD]

Thanks, I'll take a look.

Home grown sennheiser DC-2, 9 Bucks...

[Vincent R.]

Nice, care to share The steps involved?

[SteveD]

I bought this:

http://www.current-l...products_id=206

But the same unit is here for less with free shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/...=item3a7404cf44

With a pipe cutter I cut the (+) top off a dead AA battery. (be careful, the alkaline is nasty stuff. I had gloves, and glasses on and cut it under lightly running water). Then popped the (-) cap off. It's spot welded.

I cut the mounting ears off the Dc to Dc converter.

On the negative end I wanted the power in wires to exit the case where they do on the DC-2.

I held the + & - caps on the end and traced them )( . Above where the two circles met, I drilled two very shallow holes. then on the inside I drilled down to meet those holes. ( do not drill deeper you will start to meet electronics soon after.) Pull the 12v wires through. Red and Black ( I may add a diode so it won't get hurt if it gets hooked up backwards.)

3.3v wires Yellow and black

Drilled two holes for the wires on a 45 from inside to outside. For the yellow wire I dremeled a little trench for the wire to lay in. Solder the black wire to the - cap and the yellow to the + part of the battery I cut off.

Hot glued them in place. On the + cap I held the soldering iron on the cap until I could push it into the plastic to make it the exact size (lengthwise) of a AA battery.

With 10v to 18v they output a nice 3.3v

I'll put some connectors on the 12v side then send them off to my son. I didn't have he receivers here for a test fit...