cinetj

Would not send any power to the amp. 

Ok. Both light on on my case.

What cables are you using?

 50 ohm cables, really thin. There was the option of a thicker one, but it was most recommended for large cable lengths according to the salesman.

What about the light on the injector?

Btw, rado how did detect the Dc injector malfunction?

No one is jumping to conclusions, just trying to help this person sort out their problem. Also, your first post seemed to imply that the DC injector was a Zaxcom product that "I am sure they don't check those." Then you say "Mine came not working but I just got a better one from L-Com" again somehow the implication is that Zaxcom was at fault and you had to get one "from L-Com". None of this helps the original poster solve their problem. Once we know he is in possession of a functioning amp, DC injector and antenna (all L-Com products) we can continue to sort out the problem.

 

Regarding the output power, it was the suggestion from L-Com to increase the signal level going to the amp since it requires a minimum signal level to even turn on. The maximum level, according to the spec from L-Com, is way above even the highest setting on the IFB. I increased the level by 1 going from 5 to 6 and that worked.

 

I will have to check the status of the LED indicators because this is another area of confusion. Discussing with L-Com, there seems to be two different ways the LEDs work depending on the date of manufacture of the amp. Earlier ones the LEDs worked one way, later ones (same model number) work differently. I will look at mine and report what the LEDs do on my unit.

Hi, Jeff

Thank you for trying to help. Regarding the output power, I've gone from 5 till 7 on Nomad. Regarding cable length, i don't have any cables longer than 8 feet.

What about the light on the injector?

All green: pwr and tx

Here is the antenna. If it still doesn;t work I could use it as a lamp.

what antenna are you using?

An omnidirectional one. I don't know the model exactly (it doesn't have anything written on it). Will try to post a picture

Check if the injector is faulty.

I am sure they don't check those.

Mine came not working but I just got a better one from L-Com

First, thank you all for the replies. Sorry, I took so long to answer.

 Rado, on the amp I'm getting a green light at RX and a red light at TX. I know a red light is usually bad sign, but on the other thread someone said that is how it was supposed to be with this product.

I have ordered from Zaxcom directly an omnidirectionnal antenna, one amp model HA2401G-1000 with a DC injector. All seems to work but it simply doesn't, I'm getting even less reach than with the whip. I've read all about it in the other thread about this set up and couldnt figure out what's the problem. Could it be the omnidirectonnal antenna? I was expecting a worse performance than with a directional, but nothing at all is quite strange. Dont have a qrx 100, using Nomad as the transmitter.

I have ordered from Zaxcom directly an omnidirectionnal antenna, one amp model HA2401G-1000 with a DC injector. All seems to work but it simply doesn't, I'm getting even less reach than with the whip. I've read all about it in the other thread about this set up and couldnt figure out what's the problem. Could it be the omnidirectonnal antenna? I was expecting a worse performance than with a directional, but nothing at all is quite strange. Dont have a qrx 100, using Nomad as the transmitter.

Has anyone tried the schoeps figure 8 with a sanken cs3e (that's my current amd much loved shotgun mic)?

I did a timed test of five units and published the results on JWS. The chart I made should give you a pretty good idea.

I've just saw the other thread. Thank you John.

Do you know for how long  an ERX unit will hold timecode if it looses communication with the Nomad?

Again, just watch out for reverse polarity connectors. Usually the 'consumer' (ie, unlicensed) L-Com 2.4 gHz had reverse polarity sma connectors. The licensed versions have normal polarity connectors. It's possible to connect an rp cable to a non-rp jack. They will mate but there will be NO connection. This has been the root of many problems when interfacing this gear.

Also, keep cable length from the amp to the antenna as short as possible. Many antennas are made to have the amp mounted right on the antenna. My cable from the amp to the antenna is 6" long.

Best (and Happy Thanksgiving)

Billy

Also, while the cable from the transmitter to the amp can be fairly long, keep the

Hi,

I have the HA2401G-1000. I guess that's the consumer version with the reverse polarity issue.  I bought it direct from Zaxcom with one cable to interface Nomad and the DC injector. The other cables I've made them myself and I guess that's the issue interfacing everything. The RX and the TX indicators on the amplifier light occasionally if I jingle the cables a little bit. Sorry for my ignorance, but the solution for this reverse polarity issue would be to get only female plugs for the two other cables? They would still fit?  The one that goes from the DC injector to the amplifier and from the amplifier to the antenna (I suppose that cable sold from Zaxcom is already well suited despite the fact that it has a male conector.

Hi, 

I just got the antenna, the DC power injector, and the amplifier.This is a strange creature for me and I couldn't make until now what would be the right connections. I couldn't find the instructions at l-com's website also. Could someone help me on this matter?

From Nomad the cable goes to... and then to...

in fact a larger one like the AE

I rather think of these pics as food for thought - Oktava has a few interesting concepts that can be refined to work properly...

 

In those pics, there are two main points to be improved: You'd use a better suspension that takes up less space, and I think the distance between both mic bodies is too large.

With Rycote stuff, I'm thinking lyres and a "backpack clamp" to mount the second mic onto the first one.

 

There is no "articulated preamp", but a swivel connector just like the Schoeps GVC. It's passive and, like all Oktava, quite cheap.

There is also a remote capsule version (MK-012 mini) with which you'd mount the bodies outside the blimp.

Hi, Peter

Thank you for the input. I think that the oktavas with the swivel could really work with a WS AC MS kit from Rycote.

You could always get with an xlr tail and add a ta3 in its place.

 How that didn't  cross my mind? Thank you, Glen

Use a larger diameter zep (like the MS one) and mount them like this:

http://www.oktava-shop.com/Microphone-accessories/SM-MSR-shock-mount-for-two-mics.html

Do you use this? Still, I would still have to get the articulated preamp for doing xy and ortf as shown on these pictures. Couldn't even find one to sell on the oktava's online shop.

I use my mk-012 oktavas for xy and ortf stereo recordings for some time now. Handling noise and wind were always a problem using only rycote softies with no windshield or a connbox.

I finally decided to solve this issue but couldn't really find anything at rycote's website that fitted my needs. Their windshield kits are mostly for M/S rigs and regarding XY and ORTF setups, they only seem to work with smaller capsules like schoeps ccm or sennheiser's 8000 series.

Anyone using oktavas for this kind of stereo recording have found a suitable windshield/shockmount solution?

Hi,

Are you mounting the emesser with the supplied clips and cable? How is handling noise? 

I think a connbox should be more appropriate but couldn't find any at rycote's website that is compatible with the ta3 connector of the emesser.

Thank you, Christian! These mounts in the picture, are they the rycote small M/S or the mini?

Hi,

Using one of my oktavas with a mm1 preamp and a g3 is giving me this stuttering sound, like a gate was being activated. I use the same config with my sanken cs3e and there is no problem whatsoever, squelch is at minimum at the g3; the oktava is flawless when used with a cable.  Does anyone know what it could be?

Hi,

Using one of my oktavas with a mm1 preamp and a g3 is giving me this stuttering sound, like a gate was being activated. I use the same config with my sanken cs3e and there is no problem whatsoever, squelch is at minimum at the g3; the oktava is flawless when used with a cable.  Does anyone know what it could be?