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  2. Running Gqrx has pretty painless on a Mac for me. Can be downloaded here: https://github.com/csete/gqrx/releases/download/v2.11.5/Gqrx-2.11.5.dmg Biggest issue for me is there's no practical way to scan; I found some scripts that I couldn't get to run due to incompatibilities with the OS version of some executable and I gave up. I did get it to work on Linux running on a virtual machine on my laptop, and decided this was too janky and if I really needed an RF scanner I'd buy an RF Explorer. I still enjoy futzing with the SDR, but doubt I'll ever use it on site.
  3. Any Timecode Systems TRX+ users out there.. Have a question.. If you don't have a Pulse or Wave, can you still connect to the TRX+ with the Timecode Buddy? Only function I really would want it to easily set its timecode to Time Of Day.. Thx
  4. Today
  5. What program are you using? And what OS? I had a hell of a time getting anything to work on Mac. Unfortunately I found that a lot of the SDR software out there is hopelessly buried in academic/programming nerd land and is pretty inaccessible without software compiling skills. Not as much for PC users though. All of the stuff for Mac I tried seemed pretty half baked and had me futzing around in the terminal doing god knows what to my old MacBook. Also - I’d be more inclined to buy an RF Explorer if the user interface was more intuitive and it had a nice modern looking screen. Sorry if that’s petty but that’s where I’m at lol.
  6. An Ebay vendor just sent me an RTL-SDR V3 instead of a dipole and did not want it back. So I played with it. While I found the instruction page to be a bit daunting, in actuality, reading through it and following the instructions, installation was easy. I didn't find the software to be a problem. It works well. It's real drawback as borjam says is the limited span that is displayed. This one had a maximum display of 6 Mhz. It's easy to scroll up and down the spectrum, but I'd rather see 50 - 100 Mhz for an initial scan and then zoom in from there. It's ok. It does the job and you get to listen to whatever it is you see on the spectrum and record it. If someone is looking for a cheap solution to try for just a few bucks, it works.
  7. This is one for those who have not seen the Nagra II wind-up recorder the first time around. What a great sound this 2nd Nagra "tube" recorder has for 1957,…. Or is it just movie magic? All others nothing to see here.
  8. The Panasonic GH4 has the DMW-YAGH, which wasn't so popular (needing external powering was its biggest downfall), the newer DMW-XLR1 for the GH5 (and works too on the GH5S and S1/S1R/S1H) is in my opinion a much better design for its purpose. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1028546-REG/panasonic_dmc_gh4_yagh_lumix_yagh_interface_unit.html https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1304877-REG/panasonic_dmw_xlr1_xlr_microphone_adapter.html
  9. Yesterday
  10. Nice looking box Paul. Last summer while I was looking on Amazon for a USB charger "for my actual boat" I came across that charger and thought the same as you. "I'll add one to my bag as well." That way I don't have to use a D-Tap to 5v converter anymore. Now both my boat and my SD664 bag have phone chargers. It has worked very nicely for the past 11 months. Great $12 investment. Kent
  11. I'm all for G3ish wireless to small cams, but you know: expain the options/benefits, choose your battles, move on. And I guess it depends on the gig. Like if a webcast is pretty much an afterthought for a panel discussion or music performance, so you have a decent FOH mix, but you have a pretty long run until you reach the iPhone or a burritocam and you're sending sound through the camera because the web team can't deal with the sync issues (though OBS can...), so the audio's not going to be optimal but you can make it better than crappy. Or if you're trying to solve a problem similar to this thread's OP: Remotely triggered unattended cameras. I don't dig 3.5mm and HDMI, but I can't always avoid them.
  12. Yes, the meter has the 12V to 5V converter built-in. I was looking for USB ports I could build into a BSD that ran off 12V and found this device. Notice that the ports are also Quick Charge ports for faster charging. It fits in my bag. My small cart is just a bag holder so it's for both.
  13. On the topic at hand, if I'm feeding a camera with a mini-jack input, I agree with Philip -- they should be happy they're getting any kind of audio at all into their compromised choice.
  14. Are you using this in a bag or a cart or both? Nicely done--love the small size.
  15. I had so much trouble with cables pulling out and unbalanced lines picking up crap along the way and the lack of headroom on the camera input with no monitoring making nasty peaks a real possibility that I gave up and more or less insist that we put midfi wireless RX on the cams. This gives them a ref mix that's limited, at the correct level, with the correct connector and with no cable, and they post sync to my recorded audio. This method has been SOP on most DSLR or Black Magic etc shoots I've done for the past several years.
  16. Jim: "...for instance, I'm not doing it right now." -- You made me laugh -- thanks! -- Besides feeding a mic level input, there are other instances where padding at the plug is useful. Some of the Panasonic camcorders have been better served with a -10dB nominal over a 0dB or +4dB nominal. A cable padded at the camera plugs optimized them. Likewise, if you're feeding an Arri Amira that hasn't been updated to the proper input level (The Amira originally shipped with a +8dB maximum line input) a 16dB pad can optimize gain-staging into the camera to allow proper headroom. Then, of course, there was the Red One that required a lower line level. On a side note, I believe Red is still the winner for the number of different audio connections and varied levels that can be incorporated. While we're giving awards, Sony, of course, takes the prize for the creativity of different locations where a headphone jack is placed on succeeding camera models.
  17. Neat! Does the display have build in converter for USB power?
  18. Here's a picture of my new bag. Coming from a 633, recently upgraded to the 888 and very happy with it.
  19. Hello there! I know this is a funky time to be throwing myself out there. But I'd love to make some connections if at all possible. I'm looking to get into booming or sound assisting full time. Pref to boom-oping. But I'm still learning and would love to connect with other sound mixers or even boomies. Right now I'm glued to Vancouver, BC in Canada. Email: firstpositiondavid@gmail.com I would love to chat!
  20. I'm looking into this as well. I was going to use solid spring wire, but I remembered that I have stranded stainless steel wire in a very small gauge and I tried that. I like it a lot more than solid spring wire as it is very flexible - like rubber. It springs right back even if you bend it quite a bit. The solid spring wire tends to develop a bend much easier than the stranded wire when it is bent. If your going to make antennas for the 500 Mhz and up range, the stranded stainless wire is the way to go. To make it stand up 13" for 216 Mhz that I'm doing for an IFB, I tried putting two layers of marine heat shrink tubing on it (has a glue coating on the inside). It works well. I'm more likely to use a dipole up on a pole for the 216 Mhz, but I wanted to have a whip solution as well. I don't have anything to show yet as I'm still testing and getting parts. The stainless wire I have is .030" 7 strand. You should be able to get it at better hardware stores or maybe a marine store (trolling cable?). I'm able to get at least 6 of the 7 strands in the pin.
  21. I came across a marine voltmeter with two USB ports and I knew I had to make a BDS with it. I've been using batteries with a USB port built-in. I thought why have the ports in the battery and have to duplicate them (plus having to swap cables during a battery change) when they should be external. You may have seen this, but it's new to me. I bought it more for the USB ports than the voltage meter. But the display a nice bonus. The toggle is a locking switch so it won't accidentally switch off. The input is on the side. I use non-locking connectors. The 5.1/2.1 connectors make very solid connections and I'd rather not mess with the lock if I don't need to, which I believe is the case here. I've included a 5 amp manual reset breaker. You can see it in the little port hole on the side. I don't like breakers that reset by themselves. I'll be adding a 12v to 3v converter and six ports for my receivers/transmitters. I haven't decided if I will use Velcro or a belt clip to mount it.
  22. I use a Deva IV as a backup recorder and was wondering if IV could trigger my IFB 200 or CL-3 to remote roll. I can get the Deva to control TX gains through zaxnet but can’t seem to make it roll.
  23. Last week
  24. I used the CM3 recently for an upright piano recording. Sounded fine. It was sitting very close to the strings and hammers inside the cabinet, held by a Nite Ize Gear Tie. The mic has no proximity effect, I think. To my ears it's a good mic for any situation in that it doesn't really have a character.
  25. Gordon's got some other pictures of the feral kittens on his facebook page. Gordon's female dog went over to check out the feral momcat and to quote Gordon:"She discovered what Hell with teeth and claws looks like." LEF
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