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Didn’t Sound Devices used to partner up with retailers outside the U.S. to act as authorized repair centers? If so, maybe one of them have some spare parts lying around.

Not sure about the SL-2 but Christian at BSRF recommended that I terminate all unused ports on my RF distro. I would imagine it would be considered best practice for all RF distros. I asked Christian if I could use a termination on the end of my coax cables to make swapping out receivers easier and he said it would work fine. I have been using these to do so with no issues: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/amphenol-rf/132361/1011929?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Pmax_Shopping_Product_Toronto_CDI&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-21024044764_adg-_ad-__dev-m_ext-_prd-1011929_sig-Cj0KCQjw4Oe4BhCcARIsADQ0cslKE009Rpy73b3-nReHQYo9yHkDlPlcADasVHGrxlTdE3JknSjnZvUaAuC6EALw_wcB&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADrbLliYBtBIbA-W6bV4W8vniH6xT cheers!

I'd try it out and if I'd run into issues, I'd try if a 50Ohm terminator helps.

Mark, I am also in Greenville. It might be worth checking AVL solutions if you want someone local. I think they are more of a rental and event company, but they might have a tech that could do connectors. I do all of my own connectors but I am staff for a larger company and we are not really set up to do that kind of work for the general public.

I'm looking forward to your advice here. I've utilized the convenient auxiliary MCX antenna outputs from the Sound Devices SL-2 for distributing my antenna signal to a third receiver. When I don't need a third receiver, it would be nice if I could leave those two MCX-to-SMA cables connected to the SL-2 and the SMA ends unconnected. If I leave them connected to the SL-2 and not connected to a receiver, am I creating RF issues by doing so? If so, do I have to disconnect them, or could I terminate them somehow? Thanks all.

I re-celled a couple over the years. can’t solder to the stainless or more accurately nickel. It has to be welded which is a trick in itself, which special equipment and quite dangerous if overheated too long. . First one was laborious. Ended up taping then epoxying all wires onto cells. Had a hard time making it all fit back. Dremmeled places to make smaller then it wouldn’t stay shut so I wrapped electrical tap around the case. But I think I recelled it for about $60 second one, I found some electrically conductive glue online. It worked well and was thinner than the epoxy. That one snapped back together, screwed then for safety ran a piece of electrical tape around the case. That one I think I did for $40 or so. Second one went way faster. They worked for a few years then started to not hold charge very long. I had another one that I messed with go into safety mode. Called IDX and the guy acted like I robbed a church. They don’t like when you mess with their stuff. FYI, it’s easier, instead of removing the stickers to take a greenie screw driver or like a small tech it Lectrisonics Philips and press hard through the sticker then turn the screws out. Press around on the case where the stickers are, you’ll find them. They are wired 2P4S meaning 2 parallel 4 series. Eight batteries in pairs then the four pairs wired in series. Sounds confusing but easy. Must be wired to get your 14.4V. get a multimeter and copy exactly what came out. There are better 2P4S explanations online. also wanted to add, PLEASE, PLEASE rewire how it was, test with your meter, make sure all cells are balanced and charged exactly the same. Anything out of whack and they could explode.

Thank you for the recommendation! Great to hear that they are in Atlanta that's even closer to me.

I know a lot of folks here are self-sufficient, but wanted to share my repair in case someone else has to do it and save you the trouble of taking out the wrong screws. It seems to be a problem that is very common amongst people I have talked to and I have two of them with this problem. I am repairing 2x of them right now. Just wish the nut was somehow on the outside, but not too hard of a fix. With the battery door to the left, If you remove the two larger screws shown below middle top and middle bottom, the two screws on the side near the battery door, and the four screws on the side to the right, a little Tweaker screwdriver pry at the seams in the panel will pop the panel right off giving you good access to the nut that needs re-tightened. Mine shown here came all the way off. Bummer in the field but some tape got me to limp back home. Some Loctite on this round should do the trick.

Trew Audio in Atlanta or Nashville? (Trew bought out LSC)

Hello I just wanted to see if anyone knows of any good equipment repair shops. I used to take my gear to Location Sound in Los Angeles but found out that they got bought out by another company and their original location is now closed. I have some lav mic connectors that I would like replaced. Is there any good places that you could recommend?

Lectrosonics stands for ultimate reliability, but they are equally responsive if somethings fails. Everybody know, they are reachable and react very quickly @reasonable time and cost. But being responsive and listening to customers is expensive. Many companies are forced to cut costs here, once they are taken over by a bigone. On the long run, this could be a threat to Lectro, but I wish (also for myself) that they will stick to their policy which makes them standing out.

Rubber bands used for braces. They come in different strengths. Here is an example. https://www.amazon.com/Orthodontic-Elastic-Rubber-Ounces-Traction/dp/B0969S9HCQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=33L2N0OIVF1BL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dHbsfuKghLMwlYLapi9JOWyUI86_xnZ35lsT-3Q7nHwhrMGJPg8ycqjuAjHCdv6Etv9QQPYZ1tt6JIpPKvRzoTgCGWoybZ1IiaHiaeifSf-WIUnv4iPoFlbSLlOAW1fEPzzTn1tELrt8zff8mTe1LKTALBNniewXm6Bir2LkGT4vG6XiohgXKVlhvxE-EzzELOzGK1aExci1AT22TyjgMIXBjHje0SCsvzRgWFBwRoQWra1U79ZFG1Uf1ASHDBNm5lFb9RvbmlpoJvFYqFrMPxhaIvHfLzqDa7Jd3LoJZxI.DEXB9ffnyeUlnTcOsOukfgv5Y3mEmpIff9seYBdd3t4&dib_tag=se&keywords=rubber%2Bbands%2Bfor%2Bbraces&qid=1749846126&s=beauty&sprefix=rubber%2Bbands%2Bfor%2Bbraces%2Cbeauty%2C163&sr=1-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

A bit of both - they were specialised in the sense that the 'right' thing was selected and sold as such, but you'll find something suitable enough in a decent hardware store. Take one of the originals with you when shopping - so you don't end up with bands too big (and thus too slack). Also take into account the weight of the microphone - since it's heavier than normal try using six bands rather than the normal four (if you can figure out a way to mount it to the other top holes - the great thing for me about Rycote of old was that you could easily buy all the spare parts you ever wanted to customise any kind of suspension). Jez

I’ve pulled out my old RØDE blimp to test something out (an oddball, quite heavy copper body Fostex shotgun mic); however the rubber bands that make up the suspension are getting a little saggy. Are these a specialised item or something I might be able to pick up by the bag at a hardware store if I know what to ask for? Also, I think the original RØDE blimp was a re-imagined Rycote model; if so, are the parts interchangeable?

Now that is an idea! I have used a lot of Van Damme Tourcat CAT5 cabling for AES cable runs. 4 twisted pairs, shielded, and robustly designed for live touring.

And love from me too - and so sorry, I've been away for a while. Yours, David.

Paul Hoggatt and I married in 1976. He was a beautiful boy with long, luxuriously wavy, rich sable brown hair that contrasted with his magnificent smiling blue eyes to melt away any doubts that we were too young to take the big leap into monogamy, into foreverness. Unfortunately, we did eventually divorce; however, maintained a friendship—often distant—depending on how our changing significant others may allow our respectful friendship to continue. Someone who previously worked with Paul mentioned that he was an “old soul”—no, he wasn’t. I knew him far more than anyone else on this earth (except for Becky whom I hold high esteem) and I’d say he was like Peter Pan, always within a perpetual kind of serious youthfulness. I was his Wendy and set him free…but we always kept our love for each other secret even if things separated us. Sometimes, I feel he visits me and it happens as I sleep. Pets (always cats), throughout the years, verify this by looking intently at the area in which I feel something gently holding my feet/ankles or gentle spooning while on my side. No fear is ever part of this experience—nor do the generation of cats flee from fear. I know it’s my forever friend, Paul Jordan Hoggatt, gently letting me know that everything is going to be alright by his light and love. I am a skeptical person and am not sure God exists but feel, without a doubt, something is going on regarding an afterlife and am no longer afraid or influenced by tv shows that hype it up, make us fear the unknown. Even after years apart, there was always a connection that will seemingly go on until my time in a body ends…and my friend, Paul—as well as others I miss—will be there (wherever “there” is). One more thing to share: Paul was in commercials as a child actor for Mattel toys. He didn’t recommend kids going into acting based on his experience as critical comments were in earshot of child actors during the selection process. Also, Michael Tell, his surrogate father/brother/mentor who took Paul in at the tender age of fifteen recently passed away. Michael Tell presented legendary concerts as well as inherited/published The Las Vegas Israelite.

Sound devices do not sale the boards. They want the $1000 for repair.

Hey there! I just bought the Deity Theos Wireless System to replace my old Sennheiser G3s. I got two DPA 6060 and with both lavs i get the ticking. Using my DPA 4060 however, there is no ticking. At least you can turn off bluetooth on the transmitters, but of course you loose all of the BT features, which were the reason i choose the theos. frustrating!

It is ridiculously easy for a Kiwi to work in Australia (or for an Aussie to work in NZ). Essentially when it comes to getting employed, a NZer is identical to an Australian when it comes to our right to work. Of course an Australian Citzen and NZ Citizen are still two different things, even if living in Australia then I still can't vote for MPs to represent me in the Australian Parliament, or if I lost my job in Australia then I can't go on the dole in Australia. Just to give a couple of examples.

After trying a lot of different batteries, now I only use these one : powerowl. Very long life in A10 Tx

There are definitely a bunch of alternatives. Eneloop Pros are another one. The main benefit of Ladda's is the price. $3AUD a battery, rather than $6.50 AUD for eneloops when purchased in packs of 50, or almost $8AUD per Annsman 2500 Max-e.

The last U.S. price list was issued March 5, 2024 when (according to www.exchange-rates.org) one Euro was worth $1.08581 US. Now it is worth $1.13878, which is nearly 5% higher. The attached graph of dollar vs. Euro values is from www.dollarfx.org .