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Lin Chang

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  • Location
    Madrid , Spain
  • About
    Production and post production sound engineer
  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. Franky03, i´m thinking of getting a sound bar as a shitbox as a solution to my problem, I don´t really knkow how good of a solution this is though. Tom, I can´t find audio+video to hdmi embedder, i do find it the other way around and even audio to hdmi embedder but with no video. Could you send me a link if you know where to find one? Thanks to both of you
  2. Hello again hive mind! Im thinking in upgrading the TV set in my studio but I´ve found myself wondering "How will I send audio from my alt monitor output to the tv when VGA + PC In combo is gone? (at least from 90% of the new tvs available) I´ve found splitters that come out of hdmi ports and then turn into wither components or even vga+ stereo mini jack audio but I haven´t been able to find the same kind of deal in the opposite direction (separate video and audio to a single hdmi). Most of the tv sets i´m interested in buying only have hdmi ports as inputs and some of them also have components. I currently have my alt monitor out from my c|24 connected to the audio pc in of my LG (quite old now) and video goes through a vga port (thunderbolt to vga to be more precise) I need this to be able to check my mixes for tv shows through real life tv speakers. How are you guys doing this with new tv sets? Many thanks!
  3. Hi Larry, thanks for going through the trouble of forwarding my message to Dean, and please thanks him too for his input. Thanks John, Matthew and RPSharman for your input! RPSharman, english is my second language and my knowledge of electronics is quite limited, so I might have very likely not explained myself properly. What John said may makes quite a lot of sense to me if that short could be causing that exact problem, if it comes up again i´ll try insulating that area of the sleeve or maybe undo the bend if I can see it, but for the time being , i´ll just let it be if it keeps on working. I will also try the deoxit gold approach if it stops working again. Matthew, I´m a lectro fanboy too, I love this unit and I use two 211s among my 411s almost on a daily basis, even though RPSharman is right saying everything fails at a certain point, I hope this babies have still a long run ahead. Bless you all for your comments! I am truly very grateful.
  4. Ok, Im here with the weirdest update .... I removed the metallic sleeve of the 211 to try just some compressed air to see if it was just some dust issue ... Did it, then threw some 9v in it (still without sleeve) to check and buttons worked!! Thinking I solved it with some air I got the sleeve back on and tried it again with the 9v... un/down buttons not working again, tried with dc power, not working ... I then removed the sleeve once again and without doing anything at all they worked again : Sleeve on - problem /// Sleeve off - no problem. So my deduction (even though it could make no sense at all) was "static is the problem" - I got the sleeve back on ( it didn´t work once again) left it in contact with the sink handle for a while and 10 minutes later ... voilá ... it works ... at least for the time being... Even though I have a slight idea of electronics this is still close to magic to me. Does anyone have a proper explanation for what happened, and maybe a more solid solution? I think this kind of proves that the buttons themselves are fine, doesn´t it? I´m happy but puzzled ...
  5. That all makes sense .... Is there something i can try doing before I send it to the mothership? Thanks RPSharman
  6. Hello hive mind, seems like I´m going through a rough patch with my gear lately :/ (i recently had problems with my 633 too ... ) One of my UCR211 has non responsive up/down buttons, I can´t select a new frequency and/or change any setup settings. Strangely enough it will go into freq scan mode but instead of all three i can get into it only pressing one of the up/down and the menu button.. Any ideas how to fix this? Thanks!
  7. What Christian Spaeth said is true, i am actually still using 211s with um200s and they work like a charm. My other main radio mics are 411s with smqv, and don´t get me wrong, you can´t beat that, more battery life, more RF range, more conveniency changing freq, remote ..... but sometimes i even get the feeling the 200s sound better using the same lav, that may be just me or just an ilusion, still, pretty happy with the 200 series. My 2 cents on this is, if you can, go Lectro over G3 without a shade of a doubt, you´ll be way happier on the field and someone will be happier in post (so will your clients if they appreciate good sound). Once this decision is made everything above the 200 series (included) will work great omho, just spend the time investigating which blocks work best in your region because getting the "wrong" block can definitely give you headaches even if you buy the higher end 1 block digital hybrid lectros.
  8. Will do Larry Thanks a lot Larry and Constantin!
  9. Hi all, I´ve been reading several posts related to my issue being a 2013 post the closer to shred some light into it. Still I´m not sure what is wrong/what I should do. I bought a dpa 4062 to be used with my smqv but it came with lemo. I switched (not myself) the connector a ta5 and when used with the smqv I have to bump it up to around 35 /40 for normal speech dialogue. The real issue is that at this level there is a huge amount of hiss, and even though it is a low sens mic I believe it is way too much. I was told a 4k resistor was fitted with the ta5 and from what I´ve read I have understood this is way too much. Is this fixable with a lower resistance or is the 4062 not intended for normal speech at all? If so, what would be the recommended ohms on the resistance? Thanks! PD: Not really related but is there a way to distinguish 4060s from 4061s and 4062s just by the sight of them?
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