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WrineX

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Everything posted by WrineX

  1. Hi Guys and Girls I mentioned my own circuits for a while now and i just ordered some pcb's for a 4/8 Bay Np50 charger, i designed myself, took me some time since although people are willing to help. usually it ends up doing it yourself everyone is busy So my question is this. Anyone would be interested in a 4 bay or an 8 bay Np50 charger ? My electronics are ordered due to 2 willing people to take the plunge, without me or them knowing when i can deliver it since it might take some iterations. im low on finance so this was the only way possible. (without a job next month) i would like to take stock of what might be possible by my lonesome. without a boss. Anyhow, many already did let me know on previous occasion but since this is something different and there is another new charger on the market , i would like to make a new list It is still in like testing/development stage but whos interested in a 4 bay or a 8 bay version. i wont hold you to it and dont want any down payment (i dont like to feel owing anyone money/goods already paid for, stresses me out ) Here are the specs, for those that want to know it uses a TP4056 charge chip with a charge current of around 400-450 mAh, casing will be home made out of poly carbonate light guides, HDPE slots that hold the batteries and HPL matt black sides. The slightly larger slot size (8mm compared to battery thickness of 7mm) remains, i cant change that thats why i turned to single slot holders to improve ergonomics since it is all so compact. ~1.5% accuracy on charge voltage. Swish made gold plated contacts Smallest form factor available. Over voltage protection, reversed voltage protection. Short out protection. Ability to feed the charger with 10-30 volts (~12 volt 90%+ efficiency) so a cart battery should work and even a laptop brick could save your day. Dual indicator lights for each charge slot, so color blind could indicate if one is charged or charging without seeing the color. 12v DC brick Power supply from Meanwell, with enough power for at least a 8 bay. Dimensions 4 bay WxDxH 5.8 cm x 6.4~ cm x 4 cm (pictures are 10-1 ratio) Dimensions 8 bay WxDxH 5.8 cm x 10.4~ cm x 4 cm (pictures are 10-1 ratio) If your interested please let me know. and if you would wish some special cables to be able to connect it to you cart or power distribution please let me know. Last picture to let you know i dont only do sketchups and a video about the new DC-DC converter i use. tested on a 1/3 bigger load then i planned on using it on. (a 12 bay instead off a bay. but for those that have V2 i can do a retrofit if you like. Greetings Joppe Peelen there we go a little cleaner forum sorry !
  2. Thanks for some info on the current drain of the SSM,i was looking for that , and it is not stated in teh manual but draining the np50 to 2.8.. is rather low. might not be a problem if without load it shoots up to 3v but 2.8 is not normal. in all my tests i always drained down to 3v. about savings. its far more interesting not to charge the battery up to 4.2 with would be the max saturation charge. while charging up to 1.18 or so would hurt duration of use by minutes (like 10-15 or so) but will increase lifespan allot. by almost 100 chargers. i need to buy one of the lectros just for testing to bad they are so expensive
  3. Well because my previous post, i've drawn a sketch, of what the charger might look like with my own made circuits. not much of a huge win in fabrication time. but because allot of people wanted something very space efficient. this is actually the only way to go, although be it much more work. there will be an adapter for powering the thing though. both leggs that hold the battery will show a light. one leg green for no battery or charge complete and one leg red charging. in this method you can see the difference also when ur color blind. Pic 1 shows the sizes in mm other pics well side view top view front view etc . (i did not draw the connectors or switch) last picture shows what the light guides look like. as for now its an idea. the problem is not making this, but the electronics.since i would have to do everything myself even the soldering/flowing of all the SMD components. (like rice sized components.) aah well
  4. Hi everyone that is lurking in the dark, i hope you all had a nice vacation etc ? and i hope you did not all pre order a Soundguys Solution charger since i am so slow The 3 pin idea is really neat, i wished i came up with it (i wont use it of course) and i do wish them all the best!! Here a small update on my project Well i am testing aloooooot of charger currents and circuits, so far the replacement circuits, charges a little under the usual suspect chargers ~ 3% less. but then again i´ve measured some voltages of charged batteries on some... well other brands and they tend to overcharge beyond 4.20 volt (they measure 4.2 after a few hours , that means they where over charged). Not good if you want to use them for a long time. it is good if you want to get the maximum hours out of them. but then again 3-4% on a 5 hour duration (equals 300 minutes) is 9-12 minutes.... undercharging 3-4% gives you +-70 -100 more charges out of the same battery. on a 35 euro battery that saves some waste and money i am still working on my own circuits though, so i could change the design, in favor of my free time but i wanted to have some circuits in stock to be able to fix some of my previous chargers since there where are few casualties.. people using the wrong adapter.... ill try to look for a solution so the adapter will see a short when a to high voltage is used and dont damage the charger. my precious !!!. hope the wrong adapter likes that though. (most have short circuit protection) dont try that on a lead acid battery though or it will be new years eve all over. About free time... so far i had to learn everything when it comes to PCB design, so it takes quite some time (these software feel like stuff from the 90's).. i did made some progress though. and i am not sure yet how the charger is gone look. either based on the old one. or a complete new one in favor of ease of fabricating... hard to say. i believe people where rather fond of the super small form factor. as for now a few more days and i can ask the people that are on my waiting list if they still want a charger like the travel version. since i got some circuits in stock. i still got some materials (housing and power supply) for the none travel version to, if someone wants, ill give you a discount, since its just sitting there doing nothing. it could potential charge up to 24 np50's at a time if you want. i wont recommend that but it can. you could say i would like to have 16 slots if you likes or whatever between 2 and 24 Cya soon hopefully with some more photos and news !
  5. well i amm still testing with some circuits that might replace the old ones... still thats not the way i wan to go. but at least if they work as i intended i can get a hold of as many to be sure i can fix some (some peopleblow them up by using the wrong charger) i want to adress that to if i can but cant acount for all of well mistakes but i might be able to sell some depending on how many i can get and if they work well. still my own cicuit is what i want no more chinese dependency
  6. Well by the looks of it more and more people i have to admit i got some troubles with getting my electronics. i might have replacements but it takes some time to see how well they work. at the same time i want to make my own circuits. but for that to work i am seeking some help from third parties, this costs time and potential some money i dont have. so i did not not forget about the chargers. but it might take a bit more time then i and a few others would like. but i hope i can come up with something before everyone found something else.
  7. i like seeing mics in anything that does not need to be hidden.... to me it sounds muuuuuuuuch better. no clothing not funny noises less comb filtering if you are allowed to place it where you want. ofcourse it would be nice if they where not there. but in terms of sound... well you just cant win. i bet some will say then your doing it wrong. but really ? thats why we got all kinds of tools to do so, and even then 80% does not agree on using this or that tool. and even then most of the times it allot of work to let it sound decent in post again. so non fiction... to me i dont mind seeing a mic if it sounds nice !
  8. is this even serious ? beats...... the ones that are weighted down to feel like it has something of quality apple is on a get money quick rampage. only now matters. its a bit philips after the 80's just keep the investors happy , dont mind making good products just cash in. until it gets pissed on by the consumers. although there are always people around to keep the company a float so it seems, some certain people.
  9. yep a bash its gone be. but i would love to chip in. by just asking what is it what the it makes it a good product. ? technical. besides liking the OS the way it is used? since i see allot of people from the movie business or design use an apple. Witch is funny. seeing editors exporting a video in the slowest possible way. since most Macbooks pros have only 2 cores, some 4 and they overheat so hard they are throttled down to mediocre speeds...... so yeah specs look nice until you actually need them like 100% load. the cooling cant keep up since most of the apple users rather have a sleek design then a design that makes sense. i must add some things are nice like the charge port ! and screens are always of good quality. But it amazes me that it is quit clear what they do..... IT MUST LOOK GOOD. nice looking body, sleek, and a good screen, and rather nice battery life... it is so clear performance is not one of them !!!!!! so why use them when you work in a professional sector where performance counts!!!!!! and i for once am a sound designer and have had a few years of IT worked with apple products and am a PC user, and im sure my old 3 year old pc will still put all the new macbook pros to shame in raw performance. as well lets not forget there new designs are completely designed around trowing them away !!!! nothing is replaceable. buying the cheaper model ? have fun dealing with drum ROFL......................... 1 usb C port.... yes you also use that one to charge..... so ever want to use anything else ?? go buy a extension shit dongle that wear you only usb C port out within the year. harddisk died >? or your memory >?? ooh well just trow away your computer since it is on board. ur keyboard fucked ? well we got you covered we managed to chip it so a new one , not placed by us wont work !!! JEEEEJ let me hear one good point on the new apple products ! im sorry i really get pissed of by the nonsense, the company is fucking everyone over and there are still people cheering for them !!!
  10. Hi guys. I was testing a charger i made, the travel version with different electronics then i normally use. I measured a few times how it performed. charging with a charger where you can set all the values you want, charge it then discharge it and see how much REAL mAH i could pull out of them. Comparing that to the charge my charger delivered. a few mAh here and there is not a big deal, but i noticed my cheap test batteries are giving me trouble. They charge but i might have discharged them a bit to far and aggressive in my discharge rig... a monstrosity to discharge 6 batteries in one go. why ? since i want to charge them as fast as possible , to check if the chargers i send out are in good working order. The thing is with discharging them to quickly or loading them beyond what a transmitter does makes the voltage drop lower then they normally would. + i might have hit the limit where they are not holding voltage perfectly any more.. so i lost my benchmark of just measuring voltage to see if they are charged nicely... well long story short... The higher capacity ones (only got one) did give me the proper voltage it should be (the cheaper ones are charged up to 4.18 +- , but tend to be 4.13-4.14 after a few hours) just to rule out the charger or the batteries. I would like to know what NP-50 do you use and what is there supposedly capacity in mAH. since i think there is aaaaaallloooooootttt of marketing wank going on in capacity. some say 700-1000 ok... doable and then some say 1600mah (in the picture).... im pretty sure they wont reach that ! or with some tricks to discharge them the slowest possible to increase that number, and not dip under the minimum voltage a battery should hold and been regarded empty. - What Np-50 do you use ? - what brand and witch type? - what transmitter it is used in? if i got some money left.... ill try and buy a few of those and see what they really do! and at witch discharge current. please let me know witch transmitter you use with it so i can lookup the mAH it pulls. (also how many mW you use them at since that influence it allot ofcourse)
  11. haha you might be suprised i think a planar magnetic will will put the DT48 to bed in general. in distortion and accuracy to be honest
  12. Hmm i was strolling trough my designs.... mostly Loudspeaker related, more then 150 projects and tests.... mostly just done once to never build/test again it is a propper mess. a bit like editing in audio and video... filenames like final_final 3 etc But i found an old recording when i made my first arduino working program (im bad in programming) used for discharging the NP50 batteries after i charged them in my First charger. and keep track of how much mAH is in there depending on different charging currents compared to a single charger that you can tailor for best results as reference. i think i was content it worked playing loud music and probable had a beer haha By now there are relais in there that cut the discharging to the set voltage in this version i relied onthe speaker making beeping noises when a battery was low enough to remove it. in the newer version after discharging it remembers the amount of mAH drawn from it. the test version i had to scroll up and see what the alst reading was
  13. Woei i did not receive any messages from the forum. But i missed out i see. Thanks for the ideas! For now main goal is keep it simple so 8 or 12 is still a thing so best thing would be pcbs of 4 so i could do any of those if needed. And thanks for the nice words to , it suprises me every time anyone can be so happy with a charger haha Ill post something when i know more still have a fight with the mechanics of the thing before even thinking of making pcbs
  14. Hi everyone! (picture is of my previous charger) Well i received some calls and mails about the chargers i made in de the past. Besides me posting in the manufacturing forum i am just a normal dude making them for fun and maybe some profit on the side. But that was never the intend when i started it, i build the first version just for a friend of mine. Now after making a few, i come to the conclusion that if i would want to provide chargers i need to change things up, first off the electronics are not being made anymore and besides that the quality of the supplier was rather random (that's why i tested all chargers beyond normal before i shipped, even then failure is always an option ;), it just minimizes it) i am on the verge of creating my own circuits, but the attempt on making everything modular is a problem, i cant figure out how to make it as i imagined, and i guess i must know my limitations in what i can do all by myself. so i am going for a simpler approach that will get the many hours i spend on one charger down. it will be at the cost of the design(aesthetics) i made and liked rather well. but assembly is such a **** i really need to ditch that. So my vision is a simpler design with less components and bigger prints that will house all the separate charge circuits i need, to cut down on labour to be able to still make nice chargers that are not 1200 euro But now comes the question(s) how many slots would fit a normal user ? i was thinking about redundancy, i made some 6 ,8,12 one 14 and even a 16 slot version so far. but is it really a benefit to bed on one horse ? what if the 16 slot person would buy 3x 6 slots ? or 2 x 8 slots ? 1. what do you think ? if i would make one basic slot configuration how many slots should it have ? and what sizes (ex charger brick) would be acceptable ? so far in my design a 8 slot witch would fit most people with ease would be around (not completely finished of course thats why i ask ) 15 cm x 6cm ex adapter. 2. As for indicators, many designs use one light guide to show either green or red. what about 2 light guides positioned at either end of the battery ? so you can see if something is finished even by not seeing the color ? bottom led on ? its ready top led on ? still charging. 3. Charger current ? i used 400 mAh charger current , the Np50 allows for 1C charging (1C means 1 x capacity of the battery as charge current)... i would not dare to go there and charge it with 1000mAh for reasons like not every Np50 is 1000mAh to begin with. so i thought about lower, but if i only use 8 slot for each power brick i could increase the charge rate to 600mAh that would finish them 1/3 faster. let me know what you think. no one uses np50's with capacity lower then 800mAh so we are far below 1C and thus safe. Well the input would be very helpful, before i decide things that might be stupid, since lets be honest i dont use them daily ! Kind regards, Joppe Peelen
  15. yes new design will not use 2 fingers but will clamp it over the length. so you wont be having that problem also it is gone be loaded like a regular charger a hole that is the size of the battery as in the video. just mehcanics i wanted to try. not what im gone use but it is the idea
  16. Hi Constantin all fine ? Well i am afraid that would be to difficult for me but as you can see you get a fit rather quick that wont loosen the battery as is im working on my v3 charger first i have to make a version that works mechanically as i want with ease of construction (and size since most buy one because of this feature) in mind since for me it was going wrong there in the one you own they look nice i think but , its hell of a work fiddling with all these parts. then speak with a guy that would be able to make me some PCB's same specs as before at least thats the goal as for now im relaxing of the week working tomorrow another day.
  17. nice ! it looks great !
  18. WOooeii thats awesome ! thanks Jim , and thanks for the photo ! ill hope you enjoy it and it anyting happens dont hesitate to give me a ring !
  19. haha i sold my dt48's with a big smile on my face i ahted them. i even had the old versions like from the 70's at my film academy i once found some racks in teh hallway , and i asked what is going on with these racks with old stuff on it ? they said it is gone be trown away... i was oooooh okeej. i took 3 hald dt48's from the same year and made oen good pair and some transformers and some minidisc mixers i actually took everything i could transport by train haha would taken more just because i think it is a waste to trow it all in the garbage. apparently other students did not take much interest ,so allot ended up in the container anyway
  20. Well i was playing around with this contraption. after a long time i finally at least started testing tiny ideas i had for a project that keeps coming back at me. (in a good way) 3 guesses what the purpose might be i kind of spoiled it in the video but ok Its about holding strength and how it feels (mechanical feedback) since i am no engineer i do it the old fashioned way.. just make it and see what it does This is of course only proof of concept and the thing is only made to just test how it feels and what i should consider to change in the basic design. since i cant model this. now i can measure how far the plates need to be to get the mechanical feedback i want (only for this particular material used in the test)
  21. Thats great to hear ! its nice to hear it works out ! if you could make some pictures if you got the time. when it is working i would be happy to receive some. since i like to make a gallery or something. i only have static pictures
  22. this is the most standard crimp on BNC.. problem with these are the strain relieve (the crimp on portion) is rather small in length, an what almost every time happens is the cable will be still sitting fine in the crimp part. but since bending the cable outside the strain relieve still inflict tension on the inner core it will end up breaking near the solder joint. after a while the just get ripped out of the strain relieve to.. they shoudl have added a rubber strain relieve after the crimp part so it wont be able to bend so much that it is pulling on the inner core
  23. best would be punching.. but such a large hole might be hard to get a die for cutting is an option but you either have to stitch the edges, or depending on the material go beserk with a lighter melting the edge so it wont unravel. not the most pretty way but it works !
  24. Haa that looks really nice !!! this is exactly how Cinela worked i rem member the guy that started it all talking exactly about this shape he made for a soundguy wanting a small blimp for a documentary , his first blimp I am following this one !! i dont have use for blimps myself anymore but hell who does not like a really nice done propper DIY adventure ! Haha yeah its exactly not as you expect hehe noticed that to thank god there is such a thing like post.... and maybe some phone calls hehe or i would be screwed
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