WrineX

They suck, very often in the smaller ones pins are not aligned well, and dont work at all or get mushed up when inserted. ALthough lemo prices are complete retarded, these Chinese ones do suck

It is ok, i wondered why not the original material was used. but yeah that explains it. i have no need for any wind protection of any brand. but i kind of moved into the what i would care for if i did mode. some tests would be great ! i think you guys did some AB testing few years back. thats the way to go for me. not so much by shooting other brands down but you can shine with what yours does regardless ! Greetings Joppe

Only nit picking and well for all i know it works as good as shown ! but thats not what i see here. In most of the shots where people show how to abuse it, it is not the actual sound of that suspension....so what the use of that is, is beyond me. watch this https://youtu.be/wuEvIX3N0Sw?t=273 now witch mic sounds like that while doing this and talking into it on the backside (unless it was a rear in a double MS or an omni... but that does sound different .... so yeah text underneath... there is absolutely no noise... yes no noise Then here this couple doing the wobble before and yes we heared nothing... but now when the mic moved towards the guy... yeah nothing either so again we are not listening to the boom but we listen to another boom op that records them moving there new gadget around... okeee. https://youtu.be/wuEvIX3N0Sw?t=332 The thing might rock i dont know... but the video is not saying much

thanks well english is not my native language as you may have noted haha. have to thinkn a bit longer every now and then

Oh if it is kind of against the rules or something remove it, as for now im just a guy that made a charger for the moment so.... i am not selling them as a company. as of yet. (or maybe ever who knows) Here a small video about my charger. not so much specially made for this forum so ignore the explaining of why the use of np50's etc, i make videos often for things i like to make myself (loudspeaker related) so it is more for the people that watch my channel. but some of you might be interested to see how it operates... i dont know https://youtu.be/J60hAgsFz7w Greetings Joppe. .

Here a small video about my charger. not so much specially made for this forum so ignore the explaining of why the use of np50's etc, i make videos often for things i like to make (loudspeaker related) so it is more for the people that watch my channel. but some of you might be interested to see how it operates... i dont know Greetings Joppe

Well i would if i would use it for work but i dont do sound recording anymore ill ask my m8 if he can send me a pic, although he uses it mostly on top of one of my carts. and is able to just unhook it and use it on his belly hehe

Well it is done, except for the hawkwood Np1 holder that is now udnerneith (not yet in the picture) the receivers and you can see on pic 4 you can grab it out on the left side and put a new one in. cabling could be more tight, but that resulted in some new cabling, and i think he is gone use these until they are up for replacement. we might make a new XLR thing for the ouputs by putting 6 XLR chassis into a block and pot it with resin. so they dont stick out as much as they are doing now. the inputs are not in the way iof anything so they will remain as is.

So i am back on it. so the majority is for the integrated PSU, so integrated it will be!. I looked in to the usb charging options. and it is not as easy as i hoped. first off i dont want to be responsible for any blown up iphones and what not. since just buying some USB ports does not make them save in terms of maximum output. since my power source can deliver up to 5 or 10 amps if the device does not limit there charge current (they should, but who knows) it will receive the full 5 or 10 amp. (not that the cable is able to) i dont look forward to that scenario. i can limit and protect them with self resetting fuses, but it all depends on how fast they block the current and how fragile the device is. so in short im not eager to use USB, to much reliability. so i might just render my operation to bare basics for now. 12 -18 slots only, no usb, and internal PSU. i hope people understand and can live with that

it has been 1000 years... but i am still testing... yes long but i am one of those guys that see everything fail and storm clouds form. Prototype one went with one sound guy and there where some problems with the poggo pins (although he still uses it so, not complete fail).. so i changed it and gave another version to a friend of mine. no problems so far. then ideas come.. can you do this or this etc. those are helpful ! but it does feel like an endless road (hence it takes all longer then i wanted) i wanted to pitch a few here. 1. Changing out the internal PSU for a Brick PSU, this would make the thing even smaller. and gives the opportunity to build it in a case or something since you can trow the brick in the bottom. brick will be good brand Meanwell as well, and will be fitted with a 4 pin XLR. this is something i would love since it removes 110 or 230 volt in my build. cant be save enough 2. Going from the Euro connector to a figure of 8 Philips. i dont recommend that to be honest since earthing cant hurt. since the PSU inside is still metal caged, and it has an earth connection. and i rather use it. 3. adding 2 USB outs for tentacles. i can imagine everyone would love that. but it does make the whole thing more cumbersome. and if option one is chosen i might find a way to let them exit on the top so you can still use it in a case. otherwise the USB will be one the back or sides. it does hurt the price to im sorry i did not update for such a long time but, i lost my job and had some more importend stuff on my head By the way, the smaller slots... not going to happen soon. the guy asked a ridiculous amount and since i cant do it at the moment and since it does not effect the workings of the apparatus. i would love to do it when i can buy a good planar to do so myself, Greetings Joppe !

So a friend of mine and me are making a portable set without any bag. so rigid mounted to be used on your belly or trowed on a cart First a wooden prototype since i dont like to spend allot of expensive materials on testing and shuffling around holes components and such. Thats good since i changed rather much Then the final material, the material is a composite from aluminum and HDPE foam, witch makes it rather light and still quit stiff., it has been cut on my CNC. In between the Cantar and the frame there is an aluminum bar that prevents the Cantar from faling if somehow the composite material would fail. the hooks from the harnas would still be connected (the receivers will still be saved by the shear amount of cables) the rig will have an hawkwood low profile NP1 (NPC-SQN4S) and because it has a feature to let the Np1 stick out slightly you could change it out with one hand if needed. in this case my friend is a lefty so it is on the left. The inputs and outputs where mounted by a company in this angled aluminum, works great but for our outputs we might need to think of something that does not stick out as much. Since it will be staying in the Rig, i opted for using chassis XLRS somehow.... not sure yet. but that would decrease stickout so much it will be on par with the inputs.... aah well who knows. there is enough room for cablin and since there is room between the Cantar and the rig, this is the space where all the coaxial cabling goes from the receivers towards the BSRF that will be sitting underneath the crown just under the usb's. The HIgh gloss finish of the material was not chosen just what i had still looks nice.....but it wont in a week or 4 ! Tomorrow final fit, i did not attach the second half and put the receivers in etc since cabling , i guess he has an opinion about

Hi bash ! your are exactly right, the plastic that holds the Np50 by the fingers is 8 mm thick milling 0.5mm of is an option but i never trust to much on depth of cut when milling thin floppy plastics i thought about maybe buy a planar, and just put the basic material trough there before i cnc. not a clue if that would work but i guess only one way of finding out is.... i do would love to have it a bit snugger fit although it does not hurt the workings. 7mm is a non existing thickness in any palstic material let alone in this variant. Ooh I have an idea i have a company near me that makes and recondition cutting boards, they have a planar service, and the base material happens to be the same sort of plastic. i am gone call him tomorrow if i can shove some left overs true his planar in exchange for some cash (it is a shabby kind of dude) Well about production, i first wanted to wait for testing to complete, i think 3 months on the road is a decent test after the continues charging and discharging i did while monitoring temp and amp and capacity. but i did not have a mailbox full of people wanting one maybe 3 or 4 of my friends so i did not ramp it up yet. Very nice to hear you are interested in one! i guess i have to make some spare parts then what amount of modules would you be interested in ? ill keep everyone updated on the cutting board dude haha hope he has time tomorrow.

Hi people i am so sorry you hear from me so late, i expected a notification from the forum and well.... it does not send any haha. i was already like hmm not much interest apparently. So far i have given the prototype to a friend/sound guy. and in 4 days he will be going to abu dhabi, so i hope he can see how it performs in the dessert temperatures:). so far he used it 2 months here in the Netherlands, and so far it worked flawless. there is still one thing i would like to change but, it is not within my power (at the moment and not that terrible either) and that is the slots are 8 mm , a np50 is between 7-7.3 mm so if your into aesthetics when you put them all in you might want to put them in straight. they will charge anyways but it looks better when they are all exactly perpendicular to the loader. about prices. you can decide yourself how many modules you want. every module can charge 2 Np50's Power supply is 150 Euro 1 module (2x np50 slot) = 50 each so a 12 slot charger would be 150 for the psu + 6 x 50 = 450 euro ex tax You can order as much slots as you want up to 24. although they are modules and modular, putting them in yourself (adding slots) might not be ideal. (depending on how handy you are i guess) I do all the work myself, if someone was interested in some sort of bulk thing or want to try it? or has some sort of specific thing whatever. just contact me. i am a rather informal person. so shoot. Yes charging cases are popular, kind of a waste of the design but i might be able to add some mounting holes to the sides with threads so i can ad a rim around it ? so you can drop it into a cutout inside a peli case maybe.. like these older audio mixers you could build into cabinets and such .

if people have any question or requests/idea's please let me know. ill try to answer them if i can i thought of adding a few holes with threads in the side panels so you would be able to flush mount it in a battery charge case. do be aware that most heat will emit from the underside of the modules. (the reason why the modules are lifted up above the surface compared to the PSU housing)