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Posts posted by osa

  1. 3 hours ago, Fish said:



    dual battery in general is great BUT do you use this rig with one battery and shore power simultaneously? That is what I am ultimately trying to find out. it sounds like the general consensus is the power is pulled equally from both sources when designed for this type of use (proper separation at bds with no accidental charging etc). Really looking for feedback from people operating this way to see if it might be different across different brands of bds for bag setups

  2. Thanks for the input! Currently i own a blackbird hi-q battery eliminator power supply that is 15.1volts and I manually switch powering down in between when needed. On a studio shoot recently someone unplugged me during downtime without realizing I was still pulling power so that’s what sparked this idea for me. Sounds like my 15 V power supply might work against me slightly. But I could be OK with partial battery drain for this type of set up in trade for battery back up security.  There is so much gray area around this subject and the manufacturers seem to strictly refer to dual batteries in any text that I read. They are not saying yes this will work nor are they saying don’t do this you will blow up. If someone owns this PSC power play 2 which I see is the most current version I would love to know if this set up works in a similar fashion. I read the PSC manual and as it states below it refers to using dual batteries, or a power supply, at least the way I read it – but not a battery and a power supply simultaneously and how that would work in terms of switching and voltage:


    The PSC PowerStar Mini uses three (3) Switchcraft mini 4 pin male chassis XLR for power input. This connector is wired as follows: Pins 1 and 2 are negative (-) ground and pins 3 and 4 are positive (+). These pins are doubled up for redundancy and to lower connection impedance. You can use one, two or all three input connectors at any given time. Each input connector is rated for up to 5 amps of input current and is both polarity and Polyfuse protected. By combining inputs, you can support larger current loads. Most NP-1 batteries are internal protected (limited) to a maximum output current of about 4.7 amps. By using two NP-1 batteries, you can now safely power up an equipment package that draws up to 9.4 amps. Or

    you can power smaller setups for longer battery run times by using multiple NP-1 batteries on the inputs. In addition PSC offers an AC Power Supply that is equipped with a TA4F connector that will allow AC powering of the PowerStar Mini Triple Play when AC power is available. This is convenient when you are doing long sit down interviews, etc



  3. Is it possible to use a dual battery cup in this configuration and more importantly is this a setup that someone currently uses - if even possible? In my research my gut tells me these are not designed for this purpose and this is where my skills are lacking. I am wanting to duplicate the features of cart power supplies in a smaller footprint but also do it safely, if this is possible. otherwise, I may just stick with dual batteries for this purpose. my hope was to have safe auto-switching power to my bag bds with #1 priority shore power in studio situations and #2 pick up and go on battery instead without powering down, and also having battery take over if someone unplugs me etc.


  4. I have an issue in my home studio set up where I think I have deduced to padded flooring that I walk across to get to my computer set up and then when I sit down and touch something connected via USB like a usb controller etc I get a shock and sometimes even one of my computer monitors will flash off and back on. I have tried to troubleshoot this online and I see a lot of explanations of why it’s caused but I don’t see many offers for solutions. I also suspect it’s because I have an iMac with a few devices connected like powered USB ports, but all tied to the same circuit as far as I recall. Does anyone have any suggestions how I might work towards a solution?

  5. Ugh for me ebay is horrible for our gear - as a buyer all good but as a seller people can return for any reason and ebay yanks the money back from you without question, and it ends up being more hassle than it’s worth for the fees they charge. I am an honest seller and prefer equally honest buyers. I feel like JW here is such a beautiful buy/sell space because we are all professionals who research what we buy. Ebay is such a headache if you are not like an ebay retailer with retail-like sensibilities. But I personally think a mix of all the above mentioned sources other than eBay are a great way to go to get rid of a good amount of stuff

  6. On 11/14/2022 at 6:42 AM, Bouke said:

    I once wrote here about Robbie Muller, who worked with whatever equipment was available.

    I have so much respect for mixers who can work like this - like a true jazz musician. For me to jam I’d have to bring my own piano. 

    but all well said!

  7. If I might add, and i know mentioned previous but for me personally if i dont have success selling here on JW, I ship the gear to production sound retailers for consignment and usually the items sell immediately. They also provide options to ship internationally. to me the consignment fees are well worth letting them handle all of the admin and the exposure to working mixers purchasing gear is quite high relative to JW. But I also realize that would mean shipping a lot of stuff!

  8. I recommend trying repair departments at the equipment supply joints near you as there are special tools involved and they can replace a microdot connector for you. I have had microdot connectors added to different brands of mics this way and it works out really well versus going back to the manufacturers so chances are they can cut and replace for you

  9. I ran into this yesterday and was freakin similar to above replies, but luckily someone on set knew the camera well and despite what the menu says, i can confirm the hardware switches when set properly at the side of the camera gave me split tracks and meters. Whoa what a weird choice of wording in a menu

  10. On 9/24/2022 at 12:02 AM, JonG said:

    If you use a case with a clip you could easily just clip it to the board. When I used ERXs, I’d keep them in the Orca cases designed for them, and they came with belt clips on the back. Setwear also makes something that fits them well and has a belt clip. I’ve seen plenty of Script Sups clip them to their boards and use them as IFB as well as TC readouts for note taking. 

    This was great I remembered i did have an older erx case in storage maybe a k-tek with fogged clear plastic? had stopped using a while back. Clipped to top of clipboard perfect and i folded fogged plastic inside the case leaving erx screen exposed. 

  11. I have a job coming up that is Sound only where I will have a producer friend taking notes on a clipboard, just wanted to see if there was a clever way to mount or position a zaxcom erx on a clipboard to listen/take notes/see tc clock ergonomically?

  12. Curious to know the “MHz Bands” might become available to zmt4 owners via firmware or are they hardware specific?  If it’s the later, a zmt5 makes total sense but i love the idea of this unit with those extra bands. Also curious how long this unit might last on eneloop pro’s or equiv nimh batteries in a real world use. 

  13. 7 minutes ago, Johnny Karlsson said:

    Check the link earlier in this thread. It’s a loss calculator on the times-microwave site. You can put in different lengths and different types of cables and see what  loss you’re getting. If you use good RG8X, you can run up to 100 feet without amplification, with LPDA paddles.

    Thank you i missed that! Great info. I will check it out

  14. On 12/27/2010 at 4:47 PM, RPSharman said:

    There is tremendous loss in 100' of antenna cable.  Unless there is a compelling reason (like you only have a Venue and not enough/any portable receivers), then sending out the receivers and running back XLR, as suggested above, it the wise choice.


    For 50 ohm BNC, I believe I use Belden 5289.  I simply use small zip ties about every 2ft or so to keep my 2 x 50' cables together.  But I rarely use these, and typically only if I am improving line of sight in a tough location by sending them up a stairwell or through a hole in a solid wall or something.



    This is an old one but wanted to find out an opinion as I am about to purchase some longer antenna cables. I currently have 15 foot low loss cables just to get high on a stand like a C stand in front of my cart etc. but would like to get 25 or 50 foot cBles made for the same reasons mentioned above. Is 50 foot a common maximum length still getting decent results or should I go with 25 foot to be on the safer side? Was leaning towards the bulkier belden 9913 cable larry mentioned

  15. This concept of upmixing is still something i am trying to completely wrap my head around, but all of sites i am reading and seeing demos of halo upmix etc seem to be referring to upmixing stereo music mixes. Do the same principles apply to stereo ambience field recordings when it comes to upmixing stereo material into multichannel projects?

  16. Dangit i am sad to hear you are having trouble with a response - i had issues once and posted here about mine breaking and someone dm’ed me and sent replacement lyres free of charge. I will try to track down their contact info. 

    looking at that particular suspension i wonder if you might benefit better from 2x independent lyres of heavy duty variety vs that particular joined together suspension?

  17. I went for it and had A friend of mine print me a bunch and for my personal workflow these are absolutely perfect! They are not for every Mike placement but definitely another tool to deploy when needed. I had great success with collared button up shirts and polos using these. In the past I used to use a combo of make up sponge moleskin and toupee tape for starchy shirt applications to create this same idea and as I had suspected these are a third of the size. I used these with DPA 6060s And the mike stays tightly  suspended and fully shock absorbed inside with much less transference vs ursa mounts alone. I use a single piece of toupee tape for the slimmest footprint for its size but can definitely be used with moleskin as needed. This was my first attempt at 3-D printing gadgetry and I really appreciate you posting the file it worked perfect for him to print from. 


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