Do It Yourself
for those who are brave enough to go it alone... with a little help from your friends
754 topics in this forum
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- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 1.5k views
I recently added a 2nd NP1 to my bag to spread out power, now some devices power off of 1 NP1 and the BDS for the rest of the devices powers off a 2nd NP1. I came across a dual np1 cup wired for BDS on a usual suspect site and was curious if i could build this myself. I would much rather have a single switch but maintain the same runtime i am currently experiencing. anyone willing to lend some guidance with the correct way to wire 2x np1 cups for proper voltage? or, is there any reason i would have less runtime chaining batteries together and i should stay with my current set up? -Ken
Last reply by Derek H, -
- 1 follower
- 1 reply
- 151 views
I’ve been working on plans for a 3D Printed shockmount for the last year or so. I’ve used a couple of prototypes on a number of features, shorts, and commercials and I have been happy with the results. I wanted to ask the community about the general opinion of 3D printed audio components and any concerns that might exist. My current design is printed in a carbon fiber filled Nylon filament. The carbon fiber provides the rigidity needed to securely hold the mic with some light wind protection and the nylon provides flexibility and shock absorbency. The filament is very heat resistant and should be able to withstand being left in a hot car without any problem. I’…
Last reply by Michael Render, -
DIY sma antenna 1 2
by roubi- 7 followers
- 49 replies
- 19.5k views
Hi, I thought it could be of some interest for some of you : I make my own antennas with straight and right angle connector for a very cheap price and they are at least as efficient as the official ones. So here is a video about it :
Last reply by Paul F, -
- 4 followers
- 9 replies
- 370 views
I've had batteries on the brain lately. Not just from a production audio point of view, but also for off-grid and house-scale solar applications. I'll be purchasing a spot welder and building various types of battery packs some time soon, and have also been thinking about setting up a decent cart power distro system for a big upcoming job, but the idea of seamless battery / power switching was giving me a bit of trouble. A simple diode arrangement is supposed to work well, but I wanted more manual control than that, while also keeping it as simple as possible. The other constraint I put on myself was to try and come up with a solution that could be scaled from…
Last reply by Dave Williams, -
- 2 followers
- 10 replies
- 616 views
Dear All, I'm an avid user of Ursa Foamies. Since they often have a short lifespan, I made a small shield to protect them from all the tape abuse. Also it works very well in thicker fabrics and jackets and it gives a fair bit of isolation.
Last reply by Wandering Ear, -
- 10 replies
- 509 views
Mostly as an exercise, and to please overzealous TSA people who sometimes insist on terminals being taped, I designed and 3D printed safety covers for my Remote Audio Hi-Q batteries for a recent trip. The cup has small bumps inside that keep it in place on the battery. Picture attached with one cover at each end, just for show. Comments? John
Last reply by Michael Render, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 254 views
I have an older QX5100 that came with internal cabling when I bought it used in like new condition. I began to like straight internal cabling for various applications but this still brings disadvantages. Most annoying is the cable management, when you have a TX on the bottom of the boom, but also noise when the cable is bouncing in the boom when fully expanded. Since the cable that came with it got stuck a lot, mistreated and crincled the boom needed a new cable. The boom was also on a beach catching some blowing sand and it was time for some new velours as it also started to squeak with heavy load. As all that maintenance was due anyway, I've asked a friend to…
Last reply by DanieldH, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 2k views
Have any of you fine folks tried reading LTC from a raspberry pi? I'm mildly curious to see if I could make a timecode display driven by a Nanolockit.
Last reply by Bouke, -
- 1 reply
- 141 views
I think I remember reading about a person who repairs damaged COS11 mic heads. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Last reply by DanieldH, -
- 1 follower
- 2 replies
- 223 views
Looking to see if anyone can recommend aes digital cable preferred to use for custom cables in mixer bags. I have blue aes cable by Clark Cable I am currently using and it's not the greatest size and hard to solder with. About to run out so looking for a better replacement.
Last reply by TVPostSound, -
- 3 followers
- 6 replies
- 3.4k views
I wrote an ultra long blog post that includes multiple tutorials on different mods and upgrades you can do to the folding Olympia Tools Service Cart. I’ve done a few of these on my cart and I’ve included some mods that others have also done. https://wavreport.com/2018/03/06/tutorial-uber-diy-olympia-cart-pimping/
Last reply by Michael Render, -
- 0 replies
- 149 views
Sennheiser MKE2 Repair This MKE2 lavalier microphone had a broken solder joint at the capsule. If the capsule was twisted the signal would go from normal audio to pops and clicks with no audio. I decided to cut away the plastic housing. As expected, one of the solder joints had broken. I soldered the connection and the microphone worked as normal. Next I took some strong black nylon thread and wrapped the end of the black cable. I used a “snelling knot” that fishermen use to snell a hook. I wanted the nylon to bite into the cable to help the epoxy hold tightly to the cable. Then I painted on clear 5 minute epoxy, covering the nylon and the solder joi…
Last reply by mark kirchner, -
- 2 followers
- 7 replies
- 4.7k views
As promised: Two circuits: the first for unbalanced 9v operation, the second (which is what's inside the DPA 6001 adapter) for balanced 48v Phantom operation. Best to check with a mic you don't mind losing if you're not sure about construction. Don't blame me if it all goes wrong! Regards,
Last reply by soundmanjohn, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 956 views
Sunday project just works - does not enter the case, and is removable in 2 minutes if you need to
Last reply by igomarsound, -
- 1 follower
- 6 replies
- 563 views
It seems every walkthrough of how to do this mod ends with "cut your antenna length according to the Lectro guide" or "cut to the guide which came with your antenna." These antennas are from AliExpress, which I've seen recommended here and in other SMA mod guides and they don't come with a cut guide. My antenna basics question being, since the Gx antennas have no external metal shielding (rubber coated only), does the metal of the pack effectively become the shield? Does that determine the "start point" of length of the antenna? I know there's a certain allowable tolerance for how exacting you need to be with the length of the whips for these kits, but I'm just o…
Last reply by LarryF, -
- 2 followers
- 12 replies
- 3.9k views
So... I started my transition into the Axient Digital line earlier last year. For months I had been sitting on a number of transmitters, in the hopes of a receiver solution that would suit the layout of my cart. I live and work in New York, and thus I've always valued having as mobile, and lightweight a cart as I can get away with, and the full-sized Shure rack receivers just weren't going to work with my setup. Further considerations of mine were: The hope for DANTE integration, and a relatively high channel density (higher than Shure's AD4Q, at least). When the ADX5D was announced, I figured all of my problems would be solved by pairing these with the…
Last reply by Vinod Subramanian, -
- 1 follower
- 7 replies
- 815 views
File this DIY under having more time than brains. I have a K-Tek Klassic pole with an internal cable. I want the removable-head feature of the Klassic Pro so that I can insert or remove the cable at-will without the need to un-solder. Of course, the easy answer is to sell the Klassic and buy a Klassic pro. But I really like to fabricate for the sake of fabricating and seeing what I can do. The first step is to heat up the head to soften the epoxy and then pull off the metal head. Then I made the two new parts that epoxy onto the pole and the head. Now the head can be unscrewed and the cable removed.
Last reply by sfxdude, -
- 1 follower
- 12 replies
- 894 views
Hello, for a ultra light setup I had the idea to convert a MixPre 6-II into an eng mixer. It surprisingly performs absolutely well with 1 or 2 camera hop transmitters and even a wireless camera return. Unbalanced out but no rf noise struggle at any time, at high level output though (+6dBu). But when using the audio output for serious wired applications that little unbalanced 1/8 inch jack is just not suitable enough. So I want to build a small and light passive kind of DI box permanently connected to the mixpre for the bag. The 1/8 jack could stay connected forever and probably held tight by a 3D print. I found no DI boxes on the market that a…
Last reply by Mattias Larsen, -
- 4 followers
- 5 replies
- 2.7k views
Hi folks! I'm a bit of a hardcore lurker here, and while I read much, I post little. I'd first like to commend everyone for maintaining such a fantastic community and resource for soundies everywhere! I've learnt (and continue to learn) so much from here. One thing that someone said (can't remember who) but it really stuck with me, was that in this day and age a good production mixer needs to be as knowledgable as possible about RF, and so I've been researching as much as possible and trying to come up with ways to improve my professional practice. One day soon I'll own a full Zaxcom rig to go with my Nomad, but for the time being I'm trying to hone my skills, an…
Last reply by chrisbakeruk, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 167 views
Hello all, I have been trawling through component websites looking for a DC power plug with the following dimensions; 2.1mm inner diameter 5.5mm outer 12mm barrell length (mating depth) I only seem to be able to find 2 on the internet. The switchcraft is good but quite expensive, and I have no need for the locking ring. The tensility is a bit rubbish. https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/switchcraft-inc/767K/2749239 https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/tensility-international-corp/55-00051/8626992 Does anyone happen to have any links for such a thing? Thanks in advance!
Last reply by rich, -
- 1 follower
- 0 replies
- 151 views
I am a wedding DJ of some 10 years now and for a number of those I had steadily increased my capabilities of providing top notch audio to my couples. Surprisingly it still all fits in my Town and Country so that is a big bonus. Ceremonies (1) SKB 6U "Digital Mixing" box with a SoundCraft Ui24R, Sennhesier G3 IEM, External router, PDU (1) SKB 4U "Mic" box with 4x Sennheiser G3 mics, ASA-1 splitter (1) AMG 750 folding cart (1) Energizer 240Wh battery (2) Maui 5 Go battery powered speakers Reception (1) 43" Toadmatic Performancematic cart + 8" pneumatic wheels (1) SKB 6U "Digital Mixing" box with a SoundCraft Ui24R, Sennhesier G3 IEM, External r…
Last reply by LTParis, -
- 3 followers
- 5 replies
- 342 views
I am finally getting back to creating a big wheel cart and one of the obstacles to overcome is antenna mounting. I ultimately need three antenna for my cart, one for a RF venue diversity fin, one for a onidirectional antenna, and one to mount a wifi antenna or router-on-a-plate to get some better line-of-sight to things. I am trying to find what would work best to mount on the side of 8020 profiles. Anyone with ideas, and part numbers/links would be greatly helpful.
Last reply by Matt Radlauer, -
- 1 follower
- 10 replies
- 499 views
Hi, I have several mic cables that have recently developed “nics” along the cable that are just on the outside casing. The mics work fine, there are no intermittency or interference issues. I suspect it happened after putting them in some DPA mic cases that were too small, and the edges snipped the cable casing. I’ve had these mics for years without this, and after putting these cases into play I noticed this development pretty quickly. Anyways, many of these “nics” are in the middle of the cable, or near the mic itself. I’m looking for a product to repair the nic, probably a rubber cement, that ideally doesn’t harden or compromise any of the other parts of th…
Last reply by Barry M, -
- 0 replies
- 157 views
I am looking for a shallow rackmount pullout shelf for my control surface. Used is fine.
Last reply by Mikro Addict, -
- 1 follower
- 3 replies
- 370 views
A long shot here but… amp is fried on this powered speaker i used to use in the field, and at one time there was repair services for what must have been a common problem with these powered speaker modules. I sat so long on the repair that repair kits or repair services seem no longer available. Anyone here ever replace a powered amp module in a speaker? Would still like to try n repair even with dif amp manufacturer or convert to passive speaker
Last reply by gabe,
