AlexQ

3 minutes ago, Johnny Karlsson said:

Ok, but that looks like the regular way you would wire a balanced cable. So when you plug in to a balanced XLR on the camera, pin 2 and 3 are now out of phase -  the Comtek output is not balanced.

 

I have several cables wired that way, and they work just fine with using a UCR100 as a reference hop, but when I tried using those cables with a Comtek or R1a, there’s no signal - just as the OP is experiencing. When I switched to the wiring I posted above - it worked.

 

BTW  - Comtek sells a cable with an RF filter built in for this purpose.

Yes, it is the way you would wire a balanced cable and it works for a PR-216.

I'll say it again, Comtek's PR-216's "Left" and "right" headphone output is phase reversed from each other. This has already been discussed on this forum as far back as 2014.

Check those cables that don't work with a multimeter. I have a feeling they have the tip and ring tied together. 

2 hours ago, Johnny Karlsson said:

I believe that’s incorrect.

 

I just now tested a cable that I had specifically made for this purpose years ago.

 

Here is the pin out:

T - XLR 2

R - XLR 1+3

S - XLR 1+3

I am not incorrect. 

Your way will work too as you are not summing pins 2 and 3. The important point is that Comteks PR-216's "Left" and "right" headphone output is phase reversed from each other.

Do not sum the Tip and Ring on PR-216 Output. They are 180 degrees out of phase.

If you are handy with the soldering iron something like this should work.

T - XLR 2

R - XLR 3

S - XLR 1 

I am resorting to the push pull connector.

1 minute ago, Dalton Patterson said:

1.9mm=12.5AWG thats huge. 

 

I suggest ordering a few choices and going with what works best, keeping extras for future projects. 

 

markertek

No, my outside jacket needs to be nominal 1.9mm that is very very small

3 minutes ago, Dalton Patterson said:

 Thanks, OD is close but not 2 conductors + shield.

Connector assembly FVB 00.303.NLA also known as Red16 from Redding... most likely the chuck version made by ODU.

Crimp ferrule is known as FVG.00.140.LN.

I measure roughly 1.9mm opening. Damn near impossible to find.

Now that I think about it the pushpull may serve my needs better.

5 hours ago, mark kirchner said:

Contact Lemo. They post good information on their website. 

thanks for taking time out of your day to help me.

Hello all,

I’ve been attempting to find a 2 conductor shielded cable that can fit down the Lemo 3 pin crimp ferrule.

Does anyone know of such a cable? I cant seem to find a supplier with search filtering that declares a OD for outer jacket overall diameter. 

Best,

Alex

Neverclip uses dual A/D converters in tandem to expand the dynamic range of an analog input. It's main purpose is circumvent the use of input limiters that may produce distortion when engaged. It's most effective if the ISO track has Neverclip attenuation set to it.

For example, you have one boom mic and it's ISO track is Neverclip attenuated 12 dB. You have it routed post fade to Mix Bus 1 and accidentally crash into the Mix bus 1 Compressor (you didn't fade back on cue). Well, the ISO track has 12dB of headroom that post can now use to treat the problem area of the mix.

It's only effective if the mixer in the field knows how to use it.

On 7/7/2019 at 10:56 PM, Apcki said:

Curious, has anyone soldered a cub to lemo 3 for zaxcom zmts? 

"It Depends"  

I'm sure its possible but I cant seem to find the specs on the sanken website about its operational voltage. BH give me 3-14 so I would assume yes for now.

On 3/28/2019 at 3:06 PM, martijn76 said:

I used the ODU model on cos11, made it work on the first try, only because got some great tips on howto from the fine people here. Thanks so

much.

 

If the ODU model the one with the pressure chuck strain relief?

All this info has been discussed in multiple threads on JW. FYI you can get by with a  .10 crimp on the 00 lemo.

If you undertake this endeavor be prepared to invest many hours and possibly trashing a pin assembly or two.

I solder them to Lemo 3 pins for Zaxcom. My trick is to forgo tinning the Sanken leads...... I fill the solder cup of the connector with a healthy amount of solder then dunk the wire deep into that pool. The jacket melts away and you are left with a connection. If you need more solder brace it with helping hands and add more.

Second trick with lemo 3 is to cut some of 3x5 card and wedge then between the pins to isolate them while working.

I've been using the the 3 pin Lemo's sold from Wilcox sound for years now. I believe they are knock-off. 

Move the COS-11D's to the lectros and pick up some OSTs for the G3's. IMO Too many lavs is never a bad thing. 

4 minutes ago, AlexQ said:

Move the COS-11D's to the lectros and pick up some OSTs for the G3's. IMO Too many lavs is never a bad thing. 

Oh wow, did realize I was digging up an old post.... Not enough action on the forums.

The ME2 is larger than most but how is it difficult to hide? What are the actors wearing?

As far as it slipping out of tape, what has been your technique?

 - Are you using a strain relief ? ***(Extremley Important)***

 - Are you using good quality tape (3M Transpore, Dr. Scholls Moleskin)?

 - Have the talent been sweating before applying the tape?

 - Are you prepping skin contact areas with alcohol wipes?

 - Are you using the a good tape for attaching to clothing (Stick it and Super Stick it Dots, transpore)?

 There are a bunch of different things to think about when getting into the art of attaching and hiding microphones.

I would suggest looking up the book "Down to the Wire" by Thomas Pop for starters.

Your rate is too low.

PM Sent!

Best,

Alex

There is what looks like an eyelet in the bottom of the battery tube. I used a metal skewer to push the battery out. SD refused to send disassembly instructions as they said it was propriety information. Luckily it wasn't too hard to get in there.

Damn, just found I have a AA stuck in my 302. Called sound devices and they want $165 to service the battery tube.

I pulled the unit apart to see if I can get in there.. Looks like Im going to have to get creative or cough up the $$. 

I've had good results planting in the visors and doing a bag drop. Otherwise I rig my LPDA's and monitor in the follow car. I've used Rycote overcovers as wind protection.

I'm sure it could be done but...... Do the benefits outweigh the time/costs?

Last I checked you can't see individual track names in MC....

If memory serves me correctly, I believe the diameter of the B6 capsule is much smaller than that of the TL40's.