Tom Visser

$100 for the first person that makes a riggable SR slot in box and dual slot NP-F battery charger.  Let's make camera work for us for once.

If they could add an M-S capsule into that “filter” too, I’d be interested.

Is it too long because of the filter + XLR module?  Rycote makes an 8000 to XLR pigtail.  (sorry for the B&H link, first place to find a photo)

Otherwise, Sennheiser makes MZL extension cables, unfortunately they are all way too long for practical use, but perhaps someone can make a custom shorter pigtail in which case you can remotely mount the filter a few inches away.  Personally I've just relied on the filters in a transmitter or my hard wired preamps.

I had Sean over at Media Blackout make me a custom dual cup version of his L-Series Wedge Plate.  It has 15V regulation, P-Tap output, voltage meter, designed to sandwich in-between a mount and battery, but is quite a bit more expensive.

https://mediablackout.net/collections/battery-eliminators/products/sony-np-f550-wedge-plate?variant=31982093132

I've often referred to this chart when making decisions about filters for music recording purposes...

http://www.independentrecording.net/irn/resources/freqchart/main_display.htm

For purposes of IFB for film and television - not an issue.  For purposes of IEM for musicians, not an issue either.  If you are recording percussion instruments and planning on using this as a critical part of the signal chain, yes it will filter out harmonics and "air" - not part of the instrument sound itself, but some of the overtones that add to the sound in the end.

Ice Cube’s a pimp

I have not, but used to use the Quadra system which I’d expect to be ballpark.

My cart is pretty modest, and for jobs near home using an older SLA PSC Powerstation.  For jobs I have to fly on a plane, using V-lock camera batteries and a Sony AC-DN2B which is an AC power supply / battery charger and seamlessly falls  over to battery when AC is removed.  If I had a larger cart would likely find that I’d need to up the current supply and capacity a bit.  When I push into position, I am up and running on batteries (could go couple hours) and when my utility has a chance  to hook me up to power, I’m charging up for the next move.

Lectro Duet transmitter with single Tx radio, 2 channel capability, no Dante, but AES input as well as analog.  small form factor or even slot mount (just reverse input vice outputs on 25-pin).  A slightly cheaper 1-channel Duet receiver would be welcome.  $1000'ish for an IEM receiver of that quality is great.  $750'ish for a single channel version without LCD and only volume control knob would make it variable for IFB for me.  SSM nailed it - no need for further improve on their transmitters IMO with dual AA units available for longevity, but find that the 5'ish hour runtime I'm getting now is just fine for most jobs.

Zaxcom needs a dual transmitter capable slot mount wide band receiver.  OR an all in-one 6 channel or 8 channel receiver - ditch the whole modular concept because it seems too expensive, big, and heavy.  Plus integrated Zaxnet transmitter for non-Zaxcom recorders OR make a recorder I'd be willing to use. The current MAXX, Nomad, Deva are just not my cup of tea.  Rugged ERX or Zaxnet over UHF system would be welcome too.

MKH8030 please (could be an in-line screw in capsule / XLR5 module that fits an additional MKH80XX capsule in front)

Aaton release V3 firmware for X2 (I know I'm dreaming here).  A nearly perfect machine, but have a few small requests - like a modern remote solution.  X3 and X3 mini look great, but just not a machine for my market.  An "X0" little micro Cantar would be cool - not the spaceship LCD but something a little bit more related to the X2 "Casio watch" LCD technology with a modest IO complement but bulletproof operations.  I'm thinking along the lines of 2 mic/line amps, 4 line in, 6 AES in, 2 line out, 2 tape out, 2 AES out.

Peltier coolers are woefully inefficient and unless bonded right to the heat creating sensor and processing chips, wouldn’t do much.  Your more apt to find success with remote AC units and ducting.  The suggestion to forget adaptive fan speed and just go with a constant happy medium speed is a good one.  Also using longer lenses where the camera can set back from the subject will help, as would some sound treatments - pads / carpet between and portable gobos.  Ultimately this sounds like a job for Alexa or Amira but really too many variables as to why RED is being requested to know for sure.  As sound recordist we face many challenges and RED fans are just one more of those things that cause us headaches - but with a little planning and cooperation can be salvaged.

What do they call English Muffins over there?  Do you guys find Austin Powers funny?  Do they call Cheerios “Cheerios” or do they rebrand it?

I haven't compared the 26, but am a 25-II user myself and even though the connector is a constant issue - I feel like at this point I don't feel like bothering to learn a new set of cans.  Some day I may solder some banana jacks on mine or something.

Well I’ll be the voice of dissent.  I like handheld work, which shouldn’t be automatically grouped with shaky cam.  The movie I most recently saw was “First Man”.  Film was shot with some traits of a documentary feel and the footage had sort of a nostalgic quality to it.  True I think some of the shake was a little excessive.  In my mind I was like poor operator and 1st AC trying to make tight tele shots work - and wasn’t flawless, but was printed and showed a certain commitment to the performance - both in front of and behind the camera.  I don’t feel the film would have been the same film if not shot mostly handheld.  If I have a pet peeve, is the overuse of stabilized shots and then skimping on stedi-cam and using shitty gimbals when it doesn’t really work well (more than 1 axis of movement, or too long, or simply not appropriate).

Apple used to make and airline DC to MagSafe adapter.  That would probably be the path of least resistance, but to be safe I might go with a regulated 12v output from your battery rather than feeding the circuits of the adapter an unregulated 14.4v tap.

Sony may have brought it up in their own forums, but not specific to Sony, in that I've experienced it with Panasonic for sure, and probably Arri / Canon shoots too.  It may be worse with Sony perhaps, but certainly not exclusive to them.

also video operators love to use thin, flexible, poorly shielded BNC cable, where nice thick quad shielded cables with proper terminations will eliminate most of the spray.  the video transmitter itself can also be an issue - the worst I've seen is companies that like to buy the parts themselves and build home-brew enclosures for them, great idea since the parts are readily available to purchase, but often times not built by office PAs with an engineering background.

Babyball, baseball is pretty much an indoor thing and will mostly lead to frustration when used outside if the wind comes up.

My takeaway from this thread is that you can’t fix the location problems and you can’t fix the producing problem regarding budget for ADR.  In other words you can apply tricks of the trade and even without ADR post team may be able to salvage the scene, but ultimately it will be a substandard product.  When that happens, you want to be in the position where you are on record for suggesting ADR, not that what you are doing is going to “fix the location”.  The decision to ADR or not is going to happen in the future without you involved other than being one of the technically minded voices that have suggested it from the beginning.  The alternate is for you to say that you think you can make it work by recording this super specific ambience track, but then when the decision to ADR is made, now it is because of empty promises and technical deficiency on your part.

in memory of my mates... Matt, Darin, Seth, Raul, and Steve

I just orderer a UWP ch14 set - seems infinitely useful as a hop for A7 and FS sony cameras, emergency extra 2 lavs, or for doing favors for close associates when they need to borrow something.  I think for everything Alexa I'll stick with my existing ERX TC+audio flow.

what your looking for is an HDMI audio embedder.  You can find them on eBay for $50+ dollars or you can go for a more pro level one like BlackMagic or AJA.

I don’t care if high end or low end or who makes it.  It needs to record, not fail when I need it, have a mechanical / tactile record button or switch (joysticks do not apply), sound good - both recording and monitoring, and be able to see meters in full bright sun.

I love the 788t overall, but it has failed me too many times for my liking.

6 series, Mix Pre, anything zoom, anything Zaxcom, pretty much anything with an LCD - I simply can’t see the screens in the sun - acceptable for menu settings routing, but unacceptable for metering.

literally the only recorder which satisfied my needs was the Cantar X2.  I didn’t want to buy a $14k recorder (without accessories) but logically, given my requirements, I didn’t have a choice.  If I switched over to narrative cart mixing, maybe the X3 might make sense to “keep it in the family”, but that’s not my primary work and not sure about the direction aaton has gone with super LCD panel.  So if I ever do outgrow 8 channels, very interested to see future options, even if it comes from Zoom, but hopefully someone like Sound Devices or Zaxcom.

I'm just trying to "catch up" on NAB on the internetz - is it right to say that there is almost nothing audio related at NAB this year other than a "Rode" ambisonic mic and an improved Zoom recorder?  I guess I'm buying a couple more Lectro SSM to flesh out my kit this year and maybe the new Lectro IEM system - was really hoping for a more portable transmitter though before I jumped in.

1 hour ago, mulluysavage said:

How do you do it and what are the tools? I have some mics I'd like to make microdot. The local shops have told me they don't know if it can be done.

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you'll have to contact DPA directly for purchase options.  There is the DQA0026 crimper, plus some other ancillary tools / bits and pieces to make it work as well as the necessary terminations and potentially having to account for bias resistor too.

I don’t think it is more robust but is cheaper to terminate and can be done quickly in the field if you invest in the tools.