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About jawharp

  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    New York
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  • Interested in Sound for Picture

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  1. Hey, I was wondering if anyone with a Sound Devices CL-8 or CL-12 knows what their device ID's are when plugged into a computer. I'm working on a way to make my 788 think there's one connected so I can get access to the 788's built in slate mic. Anyone willing to screenshot them and send them to me? Thanks
  2. Aaah, okay. Do you know how many volts that tram power supply lowers the phantom to?
  3. I wanted to upgrade the talkback mic on my Cooper 106 since the internal one sounds like hot garbage. I figured I'd use the Ext. Slate xlr jack on the side of my mixer to plug in an old lav to use as my mic so I can run it wherever I wanted. Can I just wire it to an XLR male and feed it phantom from the Cooper through the XLR jack? The datasheet from Tram says that the TR-50 supports 48v phantom. If so, does anyone know how I would wire that? I know there are positive and negative bias trams, but I'm not sure if that would affect how it would get wired. Thanks
  4. A couple years ago I made a small bluetooth audio receiver that went between a lav mic and the transmitter with a passthru for the mic. When the BT receiver was sent a dweedle tone, it would mute the mic and play the dweedle into the transmitter so the settings could be changed remotely without having to play the dweedles into the mic. My low level analog audio circuitry skills are in a word "terrible," so to bypass having to mess with the mic signal, I was wondering if I could make another version that would mount over the IR receiver. That way I could change the settings remotely, and also save anyone on headphones from having to hear the dweedle tones. I was thinking ultimately the whole thing could be rechargable and be mounted in a specialized beltclip you could screw onto the unit.
  5. Hey, I was wondering if anyone knew if the IR frequecy syncing that Lectro gear uses is just an IR-ified version of the audio deeedle tones, or is it something different? Thanks
  6. Thanks for the info Karl. That must be it. My gain is set to 13 to avoid the limiter. Honestly, not because of how the limiter sounds. I guess I'm just playing it too safe. Have you noticed any gain setting in particular where the cutoff is for when the filtering would be audible? Like a number we generally shouldn't go below? Or does it change per situation? Thanks again! Joe
  7. Hi, I know some people from Lectro are sometimes on this forum so I wanted to post a feature request and see how many other Venue 2 users agree. I find the scale of the home screen reception bars on the Venue 2 to be a fairly inaccurate representation of the actual signal coming in. I took 2 pictures to show what I'm talking about. At the home screen, receiver 2 appears to have around 20% signal coming in, but when you select unit 2 and go to look at it, it has over 30%. It's not a make or break issue, but the difference is big enough that it does leave me wondering a lot of the time as to how good my signal is. I constantly have to look at each receiver individually. The large meter on the individual receiver view is 10 bars wide. The small one on the home screen is 5 bars wide, with each bar being 2 pixels wide. I'm wondering how difficult it would be for Lectro to add an option or change the home screen meter to 10 bars that are 1 pixel wide vs the 5 2-pixel bars we currently get. That way, we can get a more accurate idea on one screen as to how all our wires are doing.
  8. Hey, I just got a new Venue 2 with 6 receivers all on A1. I'm powering it from my Meon Life and have it running to my Cooper 106. Every time the "iQ" icon shows up (the dynamic filtering) on the receivers display, a low audible click is definitely there. It also happens when the icon goes away. There don't appear to be any options for the iQ filter in the menu, so I couldn't try changing anything. Has anyone experienced this? Did I get a lemon? Thanks
  9. Okay, so I got an extra mono channel from Trew's used section. It looks like it's in good condition, but I just realized I don't have the XLR or TRS direct out jacks for the rear panel of the mixer. I can get those no problem, but I'm wondering how complicated it is to wire them in. Do they attach to the body of the mixer internally? Or to the module somewhere? The 106+1 manual wasn't very descriptive in how to add the jacks to the holes that normally come covered on the back panel. Has anyone had any experience adding channels to 106+1's that can give any info on how adding the jacks is accomplished? Thanks, Joe
  10. Hey guys, I was looking at the manual for the Cooper 106+1 to read about the optional stereo channel you can put into the 7th slot. At first I thought the 7th slot could only take either an aux module or a stereo module, but the description for the stereo module says it was designed to be used at any channel on the board. Does that mean you can put an extra mono track into the 7th slot and gain another mono channel? The wording was a bit confusing. Thanks, Joe
  11. Can't really tell if I'm proud or ashamed of this one, but I made a hardwired ethernet version of a CL-Wifi for my 788T. This started as a random idea, then a hobby project, then something I spent way too much time and money on (about $200 total and countless hours of my life I will never get back). I still use my 788T and have wanted an easy iPad interface to arm and name tracks, change routing, rename files, etc. I got a CL-Wifi when it was originally released and was really disappointed with its performance. It constantly lost its wifi connection and had to be reconnected and disconnected multiple times. I got rid of mine pretty soon after getting it. A year ago, I made a remote roll button for my 788, and in the process started reading about the C-Link port on the 788t. Since it was basically a modified serial connection, I figured I could just make my own device that sent the remote control serial commands to the 788 to remotely control it. I bought a used CL-Wifi and took it apart. What I found was a main board with the C-Link port on it, and a removable daughter card that was the WIFI module. The module is the Nano WiReach, which was made by ConnectOne. The company has since gone out of business. Through looking at old ConnectOne documentation, I found out that there was a companion module released with the Nano WiReach: the Nano LANReach. It was made to be a 1 to 1 swap out module that provided a single ethernet port instead of a WiFi network. It wasn't easy to track down since they haven't been sold since like 2010, but I found one in Israel along with the evaluation board used to program it and the WiReach. I connected the prototyping board to my PC with an RS-232 to USB cable, and using the programming software I found on an old backup of the ConnectOne site on The Wayback Machine, I was able to read the settings off of the original Wifi module and copy them over to the LAN module. The LAN module is larger than the Wifi one, so I had to remove the C-Link port from the CL-Wifi board. Final Results: It works like a charm. No lost connections, changes are near instant, and I can even sleep the iPad, and it comes right back up no problem. If anyone wants any more detailed descriptions of anything or wants to replicate this, feel free to PM me. I attached some photos of the LAN and Wifi modules, the evaluation board, and the whole thing hooked up to the 788. Here's a video of it working: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9vqWUJwhutbpGoRY6
  12. Hi, I'm making a remote roll button for my 788T with a built in LED. The LED flashes when the machine is rolling thanks to the DE-15's logic out pin hooked to an Arduino. The whole circuit works perfectly fine when tested on my breadboard and powering the Arduino with it's 3.5V externally. I really wanted to power the remote roll button via the Ext. DC OUT pin on the 788's DE-15 connector so I can do everything with one VGA cable, but I'm having some trouble with the power that it outputs. I am using a DC to DC converter to step down the 13V coming out of my 788T's Ext. DC OUT pin to a usable 3.5V for the Arduino. When I connect the circuit to any power supply (including connecting it to my Meon directly) it works as intended and the voltage converter powers up and outputs the 3.5v. When getting power from the 788T's External DC OUT pin, the voltage converter does not power on. I thought the DC OUT pin was just a direct loop through of the external power that the machine is getting, but it looks like something is different about it. I can power the circuit fine off of my Meon which is powering the 788, but it doesn't like something about the power that the 788 is giving out. When I probe the DC output of the 788's DE-15 it reads 13.5 volts DC as expected. But the voltage converter doesn't like something about it. Anyone know what might be different? This is the voltage converter I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3XHXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. I guess you'd have to have one for each transmitter and connect to it first. This BT receiver has its own battery, but I was trying to figure out if it was possible to power it off phantom from the SM. It would cut down on size considerably.
  14. I had an idea of putting a bluetooth receiver between a sanken lav and my sm transmitter. The mic has a passthrough to the transmitter. I connect to the BT receiver with a cellphone and use the regular Lecrosonics RM app to set settings on the transmitter wirelessly. Here's a video of it working: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2Ji2LvgBHrhiGwH47 Does this violate Zaxcom's patent? Slightly related question: Would anyone buy this?
  15. Ah, so it just gives out what the 788t is getting into it on the hirose jack?
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