jawharp

Can't really tell if I'm proud or ashamed of this one, but I made a hardwired ethernet version of a CL-Wifi for my 788T. This started as a random idea, then a hobby project, then something I spent way too much time and money on (about $200 total and countless hours of my life I will never get back). I still use my 788T and have wanted an easy iPad interface to arm and name tracks, change routing, rename files, etc. I got a CL-Wifi when it was originally released and was really disappointed with its performance. It constantly lost its wifi connection and had to be reconnected and disconnected multiple times. I got rid of mine pretty soon after getting it. A year ago, I made a remote roll button for my 788, and in the process started reading about the C-Link port on the 788t. Since it was basically a modified serial connection, I figured I could just make my own device that sent the remote control serial commands to the 788 to remotely control it. I bought a used CL-Wifi and took it apart. What I found was a main board with the C-Link port on it, and a removable daughter card that was the WIFI module. The module is the Nano WiReach, which was made by ConnectOne. The company has since gone out of business. Through looking at old ConnectOne documentation, I found out that there was a companion module released with the Nano WiReach: the Nano LANReach. It was made to be a 1 to 1 swap out module that provided a single ethernet port instead of a WiFi network. It wasn't easy to track down since they haven't been sold since like 2010, but I found one in Israel along with the evaluation board used to program it and the WiReach. I connected the prototyping board to my PC with an RS-232 to USB cable, and using the programming software I found on an old backup of the ConnectOne site on The Wayback Machine, I was able to read the settings off of the original Wifi module and copy them over to the LAN module. The LAN module is larger than the Wifi one, so I had to remove the C-Link port from the CL-Wifi board. Final Results: It works like a charm. No lost connections, changes are near instant, and I can even sleep the iPad, and it comes right back up no problem. If anyone wants any more detailed descriptions of anything or wants to replicate this, feel free to PM me. I attached some photos of the LAN and Wifi modules, the evaluation board, and the whole thing hooked up to the 788. Here's a video of it working: https://photos.app.goo.gl/9vqWUJwhutbpGoRY6

Hi, I'm making a remote roll button for my 788T with a built in LED. The LED flashes when the machine is rolling thanks to the DE-15's logic out pin hooked to an Arduino. The whole circuit works perfectly fine when tested on my breadboard and powering the Arduino with it's 3.5V externally. I really wanted to power the remote roll button via the Ext. DC OUT pin on the 788's DE-15 connector so I can do everything with one VGA cable, but I'm having some trouble with the power that it outputs. I am using a DC to DC converter to step down the 13V coming out of my 788T's Ext. DC OUT pin to a usable 3.5V for the Arduino. When I connect the circuit to any power supply (including connecting it to my Meon directly) it works as intended and the voltage converter powers up and outputs the 3.5v. When getting power from the 788T's External DC OUT pin, the voltage converter does not power on. I thought the DC OUT pin was just a direct loop through of the external power that the machine is getting, but it looks like something is different about it. I can power the circuit fine off of my Meon which is powering the 788, but it doesn't like something about the power that the 788 is giving out. When I probe the DC output of the 788's DE-15 it reads 13.5 volts DC as expected. But the voltage converter doesn't like something about it. Anyone know what might be different? This is the voltage converter I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3XHXP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I guess you'd have to have one for each transmitter and connect to it first. This BT receiver has its own battery, but I was trying to figure out if it was possible to power it off phantom from the SM. It would cut down on size considerably.

I had an idea of putting a bluetooth receiver between a sanken lav and my sm transmitter. The mic has a passthrough to the transmitter. I connect to the BT receiver with a cellphone and use the regular Lecrosonics RM app to set settings on the transmitter wirelessly. Here's a video of it working: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2Ji2LvgBHrhiGwH47 Does this violate Zaxcom's patent? Slightly related question: Would anyone buy this?

Ah, so it just gives out what the 788t is getting into it on the hirose jack?

It's cause you're using low impedance headphones. Put in a 220 ohm inline resistor like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FMGTBBL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It will kill the noise floor. Then you put the volume higher to compensate for the resistor.

Hey, I'm building a remote roll box for my 788t with some additional buttons on it, and was working on powering it. I noticed that pin #10 on the DE-15 says 10V DC in the manual. Is that an input or an output? It'd be cool to power the external box off one connector, but it seems suspiciously like it's an input.

Hey guys, I'm going to start by saying that this is a very specific question and has no practical use on a film set. It's for a project I'm working on at home. The basic idea is one SMV transmitter with a lav going into it. Call the lav Source A. I need a second source of mic level audio, Source B, going into the same input jack on the transmitter. I would make an external circuit so that when there is signal present on Source B, Source A is muted and Source B is allowed to pass into the transmitter. I was planning on achieving the mic level of Source B by padding down it's regular line level by 50db with resistors. I was wondering what pins I would use for Source B's audio on the transmitter input jack. From looking at the Lectro wiring diagrams, I think it's 1 & 3, but I'm not sure. Would bias wiring matter from a padded down line level signal? I also ideally would want this to work with multiple lav wirings for Source A (different lavs). Would switching between the two different mic level wirings of Source A and B like that be bad for the transmitter in any way? I've definitely plugged and unplugged different kinds of lavs like a COS11 and B6 before and it worked fine. I'm just wondering if there's anything I'm not seeing. Thanks

Hey Guys, I was looking into a way to interact with my 788T via a tablet or PC of some kind and there appears to be no really good option anymore. The CL-Wifi didn't work that great when I had one, and the app appears to be no longer supported on the app store. The Wave Agent control mode leaves a bit to be desired and isn't really meant to be used to control the machine/arm & disarm tracks, etc. I want to write an app to control my 788T via a mac desktop and the usb port on the 788T with the 788T set to Wave Agent Control Mode. I've written some mac software before in the past, and this seems like what I'd want to do is pretty simple. Does anyone know anything about how Wave Agent communicates with the 788T over usb? Thanks

Hey Guys, Was wondering what the best blocks are for NYC nowadays. I used to have all block 26 stuff, but I hear now that it should be avoided. Thanks, Joe

Hey Guys, Just starting to research the new SMWB transmitters and I'm wondering if I'm missing something in regards to the software on the transmitter itself and updating. Is what is available at this link: https://www.lectrosonics.com/Support/category/98-smwb-smdwb.html the software running on the transmitter (the OS) or is this something more low level than that? If so, are OS updates available to do yourself or do you have to send them in? Thanks

Hey Guys, Got a bunch of COS-11's that didn't get wrapped properly last time I used them and they've been like that for a while. The cables are pretty wavy at this point. Any tips for straightening them back to the way they were? Thanks, Joe

Hey Guys, Had a TS-3 come back from camera and they said something was rattling inside. I opened the battery door and this small black plastic piece pictured here fell out of the slate. It's currently rejammed and functioning normally as far as I can tell. (It was still jammed when I got it back. I had to rejam cause I turned it off.) Anyone have any idea what this piece is? Not sure on a scale of 1-10 how dire of a problem it is if we continue to use the slate or if it should be sent for immediate repair. Thanks! Joe

Hey Guys, Thanks for the replies. The question was regarding running a mini mite with the 1/4 length antenna that's usually on the M-216, instead of using the much longer whip that comes with the mini-mite. I tried it out, and didn't notice much of a difference, though the tests I run in my apartment building rarely ever reflect real world applications. This setup was purely done as an experiment to save space/height on my cart. I'm going to try it out for a while and see how it goes range-wise. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks, Joe

Will this work? The large antenna for the Mini Mite is too big for my current setup. Being fed by a basestation. Just wanted to know if this would work better than just using the small whip by itself. Thanks, Joe