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Christ not sure how I missed that. Thanks
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Hey guys, I have a 106+1 I want to connect to my 108+1 to increase the channel count. The manual says this can be done via the D-Sub mix bus connector on the side panel. I went to the manual to look at the wiring diagram but the images in the manual are so low res I can't make out the labels. Anyone know what the pinouts are, or have a hard copy of that manual page you are willing to upload a picture of? Thanks
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Well, this is weird. They can all power up now but only 2 of them sometimes. I've traced the problem to either the power switches or the power jacks. I noticed that some were plugging in with alot less resistance than the one that was working, so I used a pair of tweezers to gently pry the pins inside to make them fit tighter and now I can get them all to power on. It's still temperamental. Sometimes I have to flip the power switch like 5 times to get it to power on. I'm almost positive it's the jacks. Maybe the guy was jamming a different sized connector in there or something and he stretched the pins out. Either way, this problem seems pretty cheap to fix now. All can connect to my Dante network and work as they should when powered on. whew
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Hey guys, Anyone here use the Bob breakout box? I just bought 3 of them and they've been performing very strangely to say the least. When I powered up the first one it turned on no problem, then I placed it down on my cart and saw a spark. After that it didn't turn on again. As you could imagine I wasn't thrilled, but thought maybe something was weird with my MEON? It's 12 volts and the unit says it requires 15, but it turned on and worked fine prior to the spark. Not sure if that's what did it, but for the next 2 I figured I'd actually give them the right voltage cause yeah, I'm an idiot. I used the 15V DC power adapter from my Cooper mixer. It gives out 15V DC at 2.4 amps which is plenty for the Bob. It only uses 800mA. I plugged in the next one and it worked fine. I connected it to my dante network and configured it. I powered it off to test the third one and plugged that one in. It didn't turn on. I went back to the one that was working and that one wouldn't turn on anymore either. After much cursing and plugging and re-plugging i got the third one to power on reliably, but the second one, which had just been working still won't power on when given the correct voltage. If I fried the first one, that's definitely my bad, but the other 2 received nothing but the correct voltage. I'm not sure what would cause these things to turn on sometimes and not other times. The light on the power switch that turns on when you flip it on isn't even coming on. I double checked the output of the power adapter with my multimeter, it's giving out 15 volts as it should be. I did get these used from someone, maybe they did something that messed them all up? It's just messing up in the weirdest way, I've never really seen anything like it. I got them for so little I don't mind sending them out for repair if it won't be insane. Has anyone dealt with this before? I'm planning to call Lectro on Monday to see what I can do, but in the meantime was just curious if the Bob units have any known power issues? Thanks
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Hey Guys, I was wondering if anyone has compared the DSQD and Venue2 side by side in terms of Digital Hybrid performance. Is there a difference? I'm eyeing the DSQD to start the move over to Dante, but don't have the budget to replace all my Digital Hybrid transmitters as well. Curious if the DSQD is any better or worse than a Venue2. I know logically they should be the same, but the physical size difference creates quite a psychological difference haha
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Only after, I don't think there's a setting for default notes that it would add to the take.
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I avoided red just cause I'm red/green colorblind haha. I can add an option to change it in the preferences maybe.
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Thanks for the feedback! I'm happy to hear you say you like the colors cause I'm red green colorblind and wasn't sure if I was blinding everyone. I think I fixed the EQ issue. I updated the download link in the first post with the fixed version if you want to give it a shot. The letter-up problem will take a bit longer to fix, but I should be able to correct it by next week. Thanks!
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Officially moving the party to the Iceman thread: https://jwsoundgroup.net/index.php?/topic/66886-iceman-v10-windows-based-788t-control-software-replacing-goose/
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Hey guys, Here's a new version of my currently Windows-only 788T control software. It can control most functions of a 788T remotely via USB. This is meant to be a replacement from here on out for Goose, my previous version. This should sort out a lot of GUI/scaling issues people were having. I re-wrote the frontend in .NET MAUI. It looks better and should scale appropriately across different screen sizes now. Download link and screenshots at the end of this post. Changes from last version: - Better UI - Persistent user settings for storing preferred COM port & temperature units. (The gear button by the power button) - Quick note buttons for quickly adding frequently used notes to takes: Tailsticks, 2nd sticks, Noisy BG under dialogue, and one custom user button that can be set in the settings menu. - Better visual feedback for when the app is busy - EQ Settings are now available in the Input options, but I think they only work if you have a CL-9 attached. I don't have one, so I can't test this yet. They should work though. GENERAL INFO: FEATURES - Fully control the 788T's transport REC/STOP/PLAY - Edit scene/take info easily for the last recorded and next take - One-button lettering up to the next scene letter or slate number - One-button false take - "Track View" - view track meters, edit track labels, arm/disarm tracks - "Output View" - view output meters, adjust output attenuation, set output routing sources - "Input View" - view input meters, adjust input settings such as source, phantom power, phase flip, pan, rolloff, delay, and (soon) EQ - View and edit file metadata in a take list that shows previously recorded takes - Unit temperature readout to see how spicy she's getting REQUIRMENTS: Ensure you are using a USB 2.0 or greater cable to connect your 788 to your Windows PC(the plastic inside the connector should be black or blue, NOT WHITE) You will also need to make sure you have the latest Microsoft .NET Desktop Runtime installed (8.0.4 as of this post). You can get it here: https://dotnet.microsoft.com/en-us/download/dotnet/8.0 INSTRUCTIONS: 1. To use the software, connect your 788T to your windows computer via its USB port. 2. On the 788T, set your connection mode to "Wave Agent" 3. Open the windows Device Manager and look under Ports (COM/LPT). You should see your 788t listed with its COM port as "Silicon Labs CP210X USB to UART Bridge." Take note of the COM port listed with it. 4. Start the software, then select the COM port from the dropdown by the power button. (You can also set the COM port in the user settings and it will default to this option in the future) 5. Press the power button to connect to the 788. 6. To Disconnect/Exit, just click the power button again. The meter view label at the bottom (TRACKS) is also the button to cycle through Output/Input views. KNOWN ISSUES: The meter scale might not be 100% accurate. I still need to do thorough testing of it. It should be good enough for government work. I wasn't able to test the EQ settings cause I don't have a CL-9. They should work, but when I try to use them without a CL-9 attached they do nothing and keep reverting back to the default settings when I leave the menu. The transport colors don't always update correctly. Sometimes the app will look like it's still playing back a file when you already hit stop on the machine itself. If you just hit stop in the app it will go back to normal. I'm still trying to figure out a better way to deal with this but I have a 3 month old dictating my sleep right now and it feels like my brain is made of farts, so it'll have to wait til the next release. Sometimes the meters do weird stuff like stop updating. Relaunching the app seems to fix it. Again, fart brains. I'll try to fix it at some point. DOWNLOAD LINK: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fVM0i1qCiY_DpVA5PBCOrUBGXNfaq3Vg/view?usp=drive_link Stay frosty.
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noises1, is that a CL-9 in device manager? If so that's the same exact UART bridge that's in the 788T.
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Thanks for the feedback! If you're willing to try this, when you plug your cl-9 into a windows pc does it appear in the device manager? If so, what does it appear as and if you right click it and go to properties can you find the hardware id's?
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Aaaah, okay. I'm redoing the letter up system this time around. I'm going to put the letterup button in the message box where you changed the scene number so it changes the scene number locally, then sends the info over when you confirm. Unsurprisingly I've hit a paywall. I just finished putting the EQ controls in the new version and the EQ isn't enabled unless a CL-9 is attached haha. I don't have one, so I can't test the EQ stuff. I'm going to include it in case someone else can. Anyone with a CL-9 willing to attach it to their PC and see if they can get the PCI device id's from it? Maybe I can spoof it somehow into thinking its attached.
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The code's not public at the moment. There's still some cleanup stuff to do and I was hoping to add comments that would help make sense of it all.
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Damn, thanks for the feedback! What was the error it was giving you? For any new app, all the functionality would already be there. I wrote a base 7 series C-Link library that can perform any C. Link command the 788 accepts. It's what talks to the 788 and performs all of the actual C. Link functions. The app is just buttons that interact with it, so any Android version would have the same abilities already, it's just a matter of making the GUI and sorting out how Android handles serial connections.