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Posted

There is a thread on here somewhere in the last few months with internal pictures of a Lithium pack.

Personally I have opened a Sennheiser Lithium pack for LSP500 Pro that stopped working correctly.  Its plastic case was glued together, so it took some care to not destroy it.  Expect glue even if there are also screws.  On the Sennheiser battery the cells were spot welded into a series string of parallel pairs.  Conventional wisdom is that soldering directly to the end of lithium cells is risky business; replacement cells with tabs already attached seem to be recommended.

 

The pack I opened up had only about 50 cycles on it and it appeared that all the cells were still good, but the protection circuitry was tripping for some reason and I gave up.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Well after sitting on this for too long I decided to butcher open my Audioroot battery. Studio Economik had some sort of test equipment and determined cell #4 was bad. The batter is made from 8 Sanyo NCR18650BF cells wired in 2P4S. The the one "cell" that was bad is actually 2 of the 18650s in parrallel. Found and ordered two of the same OEM cells for $14. Once they land Ill attempt replacing and report back. These smart batteries are way too expense not to try servicing.  

Posted

I'm curious how you will connect them. Every 18650 battery pack I've seen assembled on Youtube uses spot welding to tie the batteries together. Are the terminals stainless and not solderable?

Posted

Removal and re welding 18650 batteries is pretty easy. Just search YT and you'l find plenty on techniques to remove the bus strip and spot weld. You can find a cheap one that works well enough on amazon (<$50). You'll still be way ahead of replacing it entirely. If they use kapton tape to mask that gets pricey but not entirely necessary - All said without knowing how the batteries are oriented and fitment.

 

Update us please!

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