Paul F

That leaves finding the SMA connector and some 7-strand stainless wire that fits into the SMA connector. You can use the SMA connectors that are meant to be soldered. You can put the wire in the pin and then crimp it by hand with pliers or a vice or even a hammer and a blunt pointed bit of metal. I've done that in the past. It's not as good as doing it with a crimping tool, but it works. Once you have it crimped, you can cover the wire with heat shrink tubing or several coats of something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Rubberized-Plastic-Coating-Green/dp/B016J1ND9I/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2ERI5CXSUL3QD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.paTNBjYHnaDjmz8YyM4S-jepXhUZgZfa8JD9tsdeQ66cL0njvEB1IVCgWrh0ydCebfo9Vub7WFj-Du7I__1Mq6fbmPYxsMsEOKP5BbJbRPxkWDmellvG8MlW0-qcZTYG2SMIyoha4eZyAMPBXFGMVUn4t8GSun-cZGayyLWIocbOoclg_DWer-FxjgIPLqBJ8FuGUhDl3djd_fC7nM7koi_GGP6vWLQjfShl-kuEjpWc0n6p0o5QEy9hr8cW1DotU3yGK8QzS3OnAWgBZTw97A.1r_WkyNV_3ZPhKW3iiFRnyqIJlej-us1ePlbL8qcof0&dib_tag=se&keywords=tool+handle+dipping+coating&qid=1751592631&sprefix=tool+handle+dipping+%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-5

Rubber bands used for braces. They come in different strengths. Here is an example. https://www.amazon.com/Orthodontic-Elastic-Rubber-Ounces-Traction/dp/B0969S9HCQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=33L2N0OIVF1BL&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.dHbsfuKghLMwlYLapi9JOWyUI86_xnZ35lsT-3Q7nHwhrMGJPg8ycqjuAjHCdv6Etv9QQPYZ1tt6JIpPKvRzoTgCGWoybZ1IiaHiaeifSf-WIUnv4iPoFlbSLlOAW1fEPzzTn1tELrt8zff8mTe1LKTALBNniewXm6Bir2LkGT4vG6XiohgXKVlhvxE-EzzELOzGK1aExci1AT22TyjgMIXBjHje0SCsvzRgWFBwRoQWra1U79ZFG1Uf1ASHDBNm5lFb9RvbmlpoJvFYqFrMPxhaIvHfLzqDa7Jd3LoJZxI.DEXB9ffnyeUlnTcOsOukfgv5Y3mEmpIff9seYBdd3t4&dib_tag=se&keywords=rubber%2Bbands%2Bfor%2Bbraces&qid=1749846126&s=beauty&sprefix=rubber%2Bbands%2Bfor%2Bbraces%2Cbeauty%2C163&sr=1-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

I'm curious about the unit under the Nagra. What is it? Is it a standard part of the Nagra IV? I've been looking at pictures of Nagra IVs and this is the only one I've found with this unit.

More commentary from the buyer, Peter Freedman here. It provides some useful insight. - https://www.forbes.com.au/covers/billionaires/peter-freedman-of-rode-buys-us-rival-lectrosonics/

Does this mean 'Congratulations on a happy retirement.' is in order or no?

Privately held since 1971, it had to be passed on to someone eventually.

You can read their current half-year financial report and form your own opinion: https://announcements.atomos.com/announcements/6819860

- This type of wheel is narrower and lightweight. Not good for sand, but ok for everything else. Put it outside the frame. Pick your favorite diameter. https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Wheel-PLSP14D175-1-75-Inch-Semi-Pneumatic/dp/B004RX1050 - Use a T-slot aluminum frame instead of steel. https://www.tnutz.com/product-category/10-series-extrusions/ - There's any number of aluminum extendible poles that will work for a mast. Perhaps a cheap 2-section boom pole - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1606020-REG/auray_bp_36a_3_section_telescoping_boompole.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&store=420&lsft=BI%3A6879&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMi_BhACEiwAX4YZUGo8WBUuzHGb_iNYkZ19aHCDk5FnzF6TnNmuQHAd48Xunv0q5EwI_hoCPagQAvD_BwE

Chicken out? No, you were smart to leave a good job alone. A nice job like that tends to indicate they know what they are doing and did it properly.

Open up the connector and see if there is a shield.

" If I touch the boompole, the hum increases;" That suggests that the shield on the cable is not properly terminated or non-existent. 120Hz - that will be the bridge rectifier in the AC adapter. Nothing you can do about that. Going with batteries may solve the problem today, but there is an underlying problem that may turn up again since this suggests that the setup is vulnerable to interference of another kind. I suggest an inspection of the cable and it's terminations. Does the cable have a shield? I think you should consider a battery solution regardless as you plan to do short films. So AC power does not seem practical in that case. Many of us with F8s use Sony NPF batteries and a battery plate.

Volvo ad. CEO showing off the strength of the truck's hook. Boom operator agrees to hang in the air to capture some sounds coming from somewhere to the right.

7-strand stainless steel wire - I can't recall the diameter. It doesn't take to soldering. Don't try to make it. Buy it. They are cheap. $5 each on AliExpress. Use this item and cut to length (depending on frequency range) and then put a cable cap on top. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832775028613.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.3.460b56d5Vft2UF&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.33416.213724.0&scm_id=1007.33416.213724.0&scm-url=1007.33416.213724.0&pvid=68c672a6-ea00-4656-94fb-22c1d2b44137&_t=gps-id%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller%2Cscm-url%3A1007.33416.213724.0%2Cpvid%3A68c672a6-ea00-4656-94fb-22c1d2b44137%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%230%23131923%2318_668%23888%233325%2320_23416%230%23213724%230_23416%234721%2321967%23312_23416%234722%2321970%231_668%232846%238109%231935_668%232717%237567%23965_668%231000022185%231000066059%230_668%233422%2315392%23609_4452%230%23214000%230_4452%233474%2316498%23535_4452%234862%2324463%23899_4452%233098%239624%23992_4452%235108%2323442%23433_4452%233564%2316062%23526&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt End caps https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804718989096.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.13.46147714zaZNgd&algo_pvid=307ce6bb-fd4d-4f11-9c10-b6b953682235&algo_exp_id=307ce6bb-fd4d-4f11-9c10-b6b953682235-12&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"3"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!2.69!1.80!!!2.69!1.80!%40!12000030978914453!sea!US!738145724!X&curPageLogUid=5Zu2ReFhrAlw&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

I'm curious how you will connect them. Every 18650 battery pack I've seen assembled on Youtube uses spot welding to tie the batteries together. Are the terminals stainless and not solderable?

Davinci takes care of this. Sound Guy, here is a good tutorial about the whole DCP rigamarole and how to do it with Davinci. It's pretty thorough.

Are you familiar with making DCP files for theater presentation? Just a thought.

I may have screwed up the context of Philip's post since I deleted my post which preceded it. I said that while I am not a post mixer and I don't know anything about mixing, I worked at Skywalker Sound. I questioned the value of getting a beautiful mix in a calibrated dubbing stage only to have it not sound the way you expect once it gets to theaters and is watched on iPhones*. But Skywalker Sound noticed this years ago. They did these beautiful mixes only to find out they couldn't hear the dialog or other features of the mix in a regular theater. Thus, along came THX to standardize theater performances. But theaters aren't THX theaters. So Skywalker audited theaters for their noise levels and spectrum of that noise. They duplicated the average of that audit and they have a noise generator that simulates the 'average' theater. They can turn this on and off in the dubbing stage. This aids them to do mixes that will be heard and understood out in the wild. That may be one thing you can get from a mixing stage or as suggested, go listen to it in a regular theater. *One of the Skywalker folks lamented to me that they do these beautiful mixes only to have the movies watched on phones.

AHH! AHH! It was not obvious! I claim the patent! I'm calling my lawyer now! I have to say, that's not a bad question.

LarryF, the RF expert from Lectrosonics explains it this way. Humans are essentially a bag of water. RF doesn't like a bag of water. I don't have the scientific explanation, but getting the antenna physically away from the body helps transmission. It's not really acting as an insulator. It's just getting the antenna away from the bag of water improves transmission. As noted in my tests, I saw a significant increase in signal level just a few millimeters from the body. Anything will work (well, not metal), as long as it distances the antenna from the body. Sound people have been using various items to do the same thing for quite some time. Like I used to use Ursa foamies. Viviana just came up with a specific commercial solution for the problem. Larry is a treasure trove of information. Maybe he can add the science behind it.

I got the Jelen today. It's nice, just longer. I prefer the AVSSZ because it is shorter (about 5mm) and has a larger hole, big enough for the Canare cable that I use. While the Jelen has a normal size set screw, the cable hole is too small. Below - the first picture shows the Switchcraft unit, which is difficult to use because of the two-piece top that requires you feed the cable out of the cap as you try to put the cap and screw-ring in place. It's messy. There is no way to add strain relief. The AVSSZ is the shortest, all metal, has a large enough hole for the cable I prefer, and has enough room to solder, place the cable at the angle desired, and even room for a zip-tie strain relief. There is enough clearance all around that I don't feel I need to put heatshrink sleeving over the solder points. AVSSZ - https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807990041503.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.6faa18028yghnr&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

It's pretty silly to warn us about location tracking when other data would seem to be more interesting. Like, I've never heard of a case where porn viewing preferences has been revealed. The internet, when first invented, was to share computing power between universities. It was designed to be an open interface. Decades later here we are with computers and phones exchanging information with an interface that was never intended to be private. But through decades of development, some security has been added. Google knows more about me than I do. Who cares.

Use a hair dryer on the cold setting to accelerate drying and to assure water that is in crevices are evaporated.

The Jelen set screw looks larger. Do you know why the Jelen has the four tongs on the cap? The cap seems so deep. What is it doing? Can the cap be rotated to any angle? I ordered the Jelen for comparison.

I found this item on Aliexpress. I ordered one. It is all metal construction, including the cap. A set screw holds the cap in place. It can be set at any angle except 'straight up' because that's where the set screw is. It is the same height as the Switchcraft. The set screw is ridiculously small. The included hex wrench sort of fits in the set screw, but it is so tiny that I'm never sure if I have the set screw in or if I am turning it. But it does work. But then where do I store the wrench and remember where I stored it? It is not a size you will find in a regular hex wrench set and it is so small it is easily lost in a drawer. It needs its own little box with a label on it. Once again, not a perfect solution, just different. I'll probably go with these the next time I need to make cables. I'll probably put a bigger set screw in. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807990041503.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.6faa18028yghnr&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

I'm disappointed with the Switchcraft ones. I've had two of the screw-on rings break. It's a surprisingly cheap design for Switchcraft. I will try the Cable Techniques ones next time I need some.