LoganSound

There is something hams use called “the signal stick” and it was actually homebrewed by the same guy who created HAMStudy.com - they are really awesome antennae that are flexible but always return to straight position and he revealed in a podcast he used PIANO WIRE to make it. Throw some heat shrink over the top and it should perform really well when cut to the proper length.

I just took these XTAR Lithium-Ion rechargeables for a spin based on a recommendation from r/LocationSound. I did a test vs Eneloop Pros in Lectrosonics SMQVs at 250mW, Eneloops lasted just over 4 hours, XTAR made it 5:45! They are different from previous Lithium Ion offerings in two key ways: 1. No stupid built in USB C port that limits capacity 2. unique (as far as I know) internal circuit that drops voltage to 1.1V before dying so you can get some notification on devices that expect the diminishing voltage of alkalines https://www.amazon.com/Batteries-Charger-XTAR-Lithium-Battery/dp/B0CF8ZNZ33

Update: CL and QL were discontinued last week. https://fohonline.com/featured/yamaha-to-discontinue-cl-and-ql-series-consoles/

I’ll put in another resource, oft-used in live event industry but free: Shure Workbench which allows for location based TV frequency lookup, importing of CSV frequency scans from RF Explorer, and coordination and tracking of frequencies across different parts of production.

I have been meaning to do this for a while because these devices are so damn cool but the anxiety around battery failing one day makes me sad. Fortunately they are not too tricky to get into, and do not over utilize glue! Chips on the board are all shielded, downside is I can't document them, upside is RF shielding. Also interested in modding firmware though I am a total novice so that is going slowly (planning to ask around Def Con in a few weeks for recommendations) https://github.com/LoganSound/Deity-BP-TRX-Repair/tree/main https://imgur.com/a/UUb3bIW Battery Text Reads: AP158 3.7V(10.36Wh) 4.2V 2800mAh

Wanted to follow up after a few months of use post-repair: highly advise anyone who has an issue in the "XLR plug body" simply buy the replacement, it was super simple' two solder points and the mic sounds great again without worrying if I made a mistake that will cost me later.

Well I replaced both inductors and while it works, there is some intermittent scratchiness so I am going ahead and replace the plug body part in entirety, $136 with shipping: https://sennprospares.co.uk/shop/MKH416-and-MKH816-XLR3M-plug-body-complete-p432263720 Will update after I replace, will be interested to see if this has any update to the fit of the XLR C-ring that has always made a little click when moved in mine.

Wow! Great find! I will order those right away!

I just shot a B-A-B test! I didn't nail the proximity but sounds fine to me!

Yeah actually my comment above hinges on the transmitter being able to Jam to another source, which they suggest might be coming around 1:20 : https://youtu.be/Nwh1xYaEf7I?si=6IxKo2TNYuSwiI3G

This may have been posted already but I look forward to grabbing a single transmitter when they release singles (the Go and lower tier are between 80-110 for single TX), the easy WAV transfer to me means this could be a great standalone recorder for small jobs, or maybe a "mail back to me" for shoots where they are planning to shoot some B-roll after sound is cut.

Rohde & Schwartz mailed me this free poster: https://www.rohde-schwarz.com/us/campaigns/rsa/adt/spectrum-poster_253163.html

My trusty (about 15 year old) 416 went scratchy today, intermittently crackling with multiple cables. I had opened it once before so I was curious to take a look and found that one of the two resistors on the input stage had badly corroded (see pic). Sharing this for others, perhaps for my own memory, and to take the comments of those wiser than me: fire away. Notes on opening: -Remove the C-clip from inside the XLR jack with a pair of needle nose tweezers or tiny screwdrivers, while this actually wasn't necessary in this case it's worth noting. -Turn the flathead set screw on the exterior and remove it -Remove the top outer case, the XLR jack assembly does not separate from this microphone without desoldering the two leads between the main board and XLR jack so do not attempt to pull the jacket of the XLR off until these leads are desoldered (or just cut if you are adding new resistors) -And pull out the Phillips head set screw on the underside next to previous set screw hole, now it is safe to pull the XLR jack and sheath away from the body I was able to shift this daughterboard slightly without removing entirely to slide new resistors into place: The old resistor was Brown Black Black Gold: 10 ohms +/-5% After an unsuccessful Google to try to find a matching replacement I opted to try a 10ohm I had around, 5 bands: Brown Black Black Gold Brown: 10ohms +/-1% While conceptually I was fairly confident this would work some threads made me doubt whether it would sound as good, initial results are positive but I may opt to match the remaining resistor at a later date. Resoldered, cleaned some remaining corrosion with DeOxit and an old toothbrush and re-assembled good as new?

Check out this awesome review on Zenith's clicker that used ultrasonic tones for battery free operation! https://www.theverge.com/23810061/zenith-space-command-remote-control-button-of-the-month I wonder if one could design an analog instrument to generate Lectrosonics dweedle tones

I have two Lectrosonics SRAs, one has regular whips and the other has AJM jointed antennae. I am thinking about getting another set of AJMs but I wonder: a. Do they perform as well as whips? b. Is any kind of maintenance required or recommended to maintain the connection/conductivity of the joint?