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    Greensboro, NC USA
  • About
    I’m a freelance video guy who wears many different hats. I have been working as a sound tech more and more and am building up a starter kit. So far the majority of my work has been in the corporate video realm, but I would like to do more scripted content and commercial work.
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  1. Great. Thank you for your input. I also just noticed that this pin numbering is consistent with a cable made by blackmagic for the video assist as seen in the below photo. After some investigating, it looks like they also market the cable for the pocket 4k. It's about $9 cheaper than the Laird cable I bought. The Laird cable seems well made. It is nice and thin and has an official Neutrik connector XLR (not sure about TA3) and an interesting (protective?) mesh around the cable it'self (that's what the red color is in my photo in the post above). Additionally, Laird responded same-day to my follow-up email and stated "I think it should be fine, but BlackMagic’s tech support could confirm that for you. The question would be about how the camera’s input is wired." Blackmagic's cable:
  2. I don't have a multimeter, but I did email Laird digital. Their short response in its entirety was "These are wired pin to pin. 1 to 1, 2 to 2, 3 to 3." When I look at the neutrik XLR connector on the cable, it has pin numbers and pin 2 and 3 reversed from what the blackmagic diagram posted above shows. But I don't know if that means there's a problem? It doesn't specify hot/cold, etc. but if it's wired pin to pin, does it matter?
  3. Do you know how to tell which way a cable is wired if you already have the cable? If a cable is wired incorrectly, could it still sound OK, but eventually damage the camera?
  4. I just bought/received this XLR to TA3 cable and tested it with my BMPCC4K. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/871634-REG/Laird_Telemedia_rd1_ta3m_xf_18in_Red_One_Camera_TA3M.html?sts=pi It sounds like it works, so I assume it's standard wiring. That said, I don't know a whole lot about wiring for audio. If it's wired wrong for the camera, would it be immediately apparent? Also, the listing for that cable on B&H says "Please note! This cable is compatible with Rev. B cameras only.", and I have no idea what that means) Happy to post pics or do tests for anyone with specific requests.
  5. If it is inflated prices because of import duties, I believe I read on Pete’s site that there are no import duties if you send your mics to him from overseas, since you’re not buying a product. You just list it as a repair on the paperwork. He’s got more info there. I have no experience with him, just was thinking about getting a 416t and having it converted and came across his site.
  6. Yeah, I came up with the toe spacer idea before I got a cos-11d and rm-11. The toe spacer is nice because it is squishy and will work well for really any lav that has the capsule on the tip. Mix and match. It also transfers less noise to the mic than rubber mounts like the RM-11 and moleskin solitions that I tried. as for taking the mic out, you don’t want to pull it out by the cable, you can squish the toe spacer down around the mic until it pops out or until you can get a hold of the mic head and pull it out. This is probably for a different thread, but my cos-11 (mic and cable) is waaaaay more sensitive to handling noise than I thought it would be. Much more than the stock Sony mic that came with my old UWP transmitter (which is one of the reasons I thought upgrading would be good).
  7. I wouldn’t say it’s sticky exactly, but it is kinda tacky. It has a weird quality that almost makes tape sticking to it stickier. It’s not soft and smooth and somewhat rigid like, say a silicone spatula, it is more like a cube of jello. I don’t know how it would handle a full day of use, but seems promising after my brief tests.
  8. It’s about the size of an RM-11, but about 1/4” thick, which is about three RM-11s. However, it’s very squishy, like a gel shoe insert. Would probably be noticeable under a tight t-shirt, but you might be able to smooth the lump out by taping it down tighter. You can also cut it up easily and change the shape to an extent to make it shorter, flatter, tapered, maybe thinner.
  9. I’ve seen a few older threads on here about unusual or out of the box tips and tricks and thought I’d share something I found near the moleskin in the healthcare section at the local grocery store. Gel (silicone?) toe spacers! (Pic attached) With a little trimming and a hole poked through the middle with the blade from the scissors, they make a very nice and quite lav mount (99%) immune to clothing rustle. There’s even a slight divet on one end for the mic head to pop out, but still be protected. I tried it stuck to my chest with topstick and a t-shirt and it worked really well. Haven’t tried it on clothing like between buttons on a button up yet. Obviously wouldn’t work with a tram style lav. Anyway, would be curious if anyone’s tried this yet, or have any other new fun tips.
  10. Before I start soldering away, I wanted to make sure I’m clear on the method here. Attached is a photo of a cos-11d wired for Sennheiser: black wire -> tip tab White wire -> ring tab silver shield -> soldered to the sleeve and ring tab So to change this to Sony (according to the cos-11 wiring diagram), white and black wires are switched but also the shield should be disconnected from the ring tab as well, right? Or is that not really important? for Sony: Black -> ring White -> tip Shield -> Sleeve
  11. I'm posting this here for what it's worth. I was looking for the same thing recently because I want to buy used mics, which are all Sennheiser connectors. I've seen zero Sony wired ones used. Anyway, I found a link to a seller on Ebay that makes adapters. They are based in the UK, so the price is a bit excessive if you're in the states. I thought about making an adapter myself, but the threaded female jack is hard to find in the US for some reason. Anyway, I have no affiliation with these guys, but I only found them after an excessive amount of googling, and since this is the first post that popped up in my initial search, thought I might be able to save someone a headache. I didn't buy the adapter myself (gonna just try and rewire the mic itself). If the listing disappears, the seller is micronic007 https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-SCREW-LOCKING-JACK-MICROPHONE-SOCKET-ADAPTER-TO-SONY-WRT-UTX-TRANSMITTERS/273219881400?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 And here's a video that might help, though it's using a TA5F Wiring a Sanken COS11d Lav to a TA5F Connector
  12. You’re right. And I don’t know where I got Canada from. I may have gotten confused with another manufacturer I was looking at. I just spent a while online trying to double check if Auray itself had a headquarters separate from Gradus Group in NY, but had no luck. On another note, my mic finally arrived after the packaging got mangled by USPS and it disappeared from tracking for several days. Practicing at home with the mic connected, it sounds like with practice cable noise won’t really be an issue when I move smoothly as suggested.
  13. Great input guys! I definitely need to work on my dancing skills. One thing I liked about the pole I got is that the cable is pretty easy to remove for jobs where that would be more appropriate. I don’t know about spacers inside, I’ll have to look and do some googling. Here’s the link for Dave’s tutorial for anyone else interested.
  14. That’s a good idea, thanks. I just saw a k-tek bottom that looked similar, maybe out of all the brands, one will fit. Just not sure of how easy it will be the find info on thread sizes and the like. I wish there was a brick and mortar place near me that had a variety of pro sound gear. I’ll need to do some googling.
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