rich

i had to double check the manual about that, as its been a while since i used one.

the problem with the gain boost is that you have to activate it every time you re power the mic. i ended up just increasing the gain at the mixer, which is a better option, as you dont always want 30dB extra gain, and the boost also means the limiter can kick in 30dB lower than you might want.

Micron radio mics (who Aldo the Audio Wireless designer used to work for) allowed you to power your receivers via the SMA connectors.

they perform great. i have not noticed any noticeable difference since swapping from my A10 to A20 mini for cast radios. the A20 mini are handling the quiet and loud sounds from cast equally well. but without the necessity of changing gain on the tx to get good levels at the mixer, which makes my workflow, and that of my team sooooo much less stressful. when testing, the noise floor sounded fairly similar between an A20 mini with 45dB of gain on an A10rx, and an A10 with 22dB of gain and 23db of gain at the mixer. my normal settings for A20 mini are 24-28dB and A10rx at 0, and A10 tx at 22dB with between 0 and +4 at the mixer.

given that you can control the Nexus via its web app. can you plug your midi gain controller into your laptop connected to the nexus via the ethernet port and have its controls mapped to control the gain of each nexus channel?

i use Mogami 2901for any cables i need to make with 00.303 Lemo but i use the FGB.00.303.CLAD27 because i prefer the cable clamp part, rather than the crimp connector as it seldom grips the cable properly.

its probably being picked by some of the cabling. did you add something new 1-2 years ago? easiest work around is keep your phone away from your recording equipment. its general good practice, and what we all used to do way back when. we've all gotten a bit complacent about that recently as newer equipment is generally better shielded against RF form phones than the older stuff (though i can still occasionally pick it up if my phone cant find 3G and up)

As long as your body is not between the transmitter and antennas, the extra height will be a good thing.

i would give that a go. if that doesnt work, swap the red and blue wires. i think fig 2 could work too, but you'll need to connect one of the colour wires to pin 1

whilst i cant properly answer your question as i dont have any sennheiser plug on transmitters. but i do have the MMP-B and MMP-C pre amps, and have no issue using either with my A10 tx. or straight into my recorder. do you have a volt meter so you can verify that you can see 48v on pins 2 and 3?

I’ve had A20s form as soon as they were available. Since then I have only had to replace one battery door clip. and since they changed the seal on the door so it doesn’t disintegrate, there have been no other issues.

i have been using this stuff https://cpc.farnell.com/multicore-solder/628904/solder-pb-free-sac305-1-0mm-500g/dp/SD01307?CMP=TREML007-005 which has been fine for me. mostly wiring mics and occasionally some PCBs, but nothing delicate with the PCB. also doesnt spit flux over your hand as you are soldering, which the previous solder i had bought would do. i would also suggest getting a new tip for your soldering iron as well so you dont mix leaded and unleaded solder on it.

whilst i opted for noise assist rather than Cedar. I only apply to the mix track. that way all sources sent to the mix track get processed. and if you are recording the isos, then they are unaffected. (though you can of course record a processed and unprocessed track if you choose)

I have some of the ew-d SK hand helds and they have a slide on / off switch. Rather than the more preferable hold to talk for VOG. It looks like there isn’t an EW-DP version. But I may not have searched hard enough.

maybe, in about 18 months there will be a mini EW-DX 2 channel receiver.