rich

Nomad has neverclip on its analogue inputs. thats the main thing i miss since i sold mine.

how many watts is your iron? i use a 25w iron that is fine for xlrs

i have this one somewhere in my doesnt fit me anymore, but might if i just stop eating those tasty snacks and do some more exercise drawer. https://www.moretvicar.com/collection/the-daily-mash/product/not-listening-mens-black-t-shirt

whats your recorder? most will have sample rate conversion for each AES pair. you would be better off having your recorder as the sync master if thats the case. that way you will have no issues if you have any problems with a receiver you set to be the master.

the resistors are specific to the Lectro wiring. here is a link to the countryman wiring table https://countryman.com/microphone-wiring/#table and if you search the internet for lectrosonics mic wiring, youll be able to find the lectrosonics sheet with all the various wiring options for their transmitters.

you'll need to remove the top casing of the 688, and possibly some of the screws from the underside as well. once you are able to remove either the top or bottom part of the casing, the battery door will be easy to remove.

ive never tried wiring this mic, but from comparing a COS11 which has an audio and bias wire, my first try would be to connect blue and shield to pin 1 and red to pin 3 though i would at least solder the blue and shield together and prep the red wire, then place the solder insert into a powered up transmitter as it would if it had the outer shell, then touch the cables to pins 1 and 3. if you can hear audio, solder it up and assemble it. if it doesnt work, try with blue to pin 3 and red tied to shield and pin 1.

when i was using my 688 with CL12, the wingman plugged into one of the USB sockets at the back of the CL12. i assume the same will be true with the 633. it would be worth having a look through the 688 and cl12 manuals in case its not mentioned in the 633 manual.

no though it might make a difference with the cable used as it may have a different diameter of the conductor, and so may not fit in the pin of the BNC. but signal wise. it still works whatever you use.

the SNA600 will be seen as a short circuit by anything supplying voltage for powered antennas. the SNA600A fixes this. its a very simple mod if you are comfortable with a soldering iron to do. you'll need to make a break on a part of the circuit board of the antenna and add a capacitor. speak to lectrosonics and they will be able to talk you through what is required, and if not tell you the part you need, send it to you.

thank you for saving me the trouble of posting what you just said. way way way back when, i used to use a miniDA42 until SD updated the 788T to allow limiters on the digital inputs. comparing the DA42 analogue out to the mic through the 788 digital in, i didn't notice any difference in noise floor between the two. the thinking always was that the higher noise floor was a better trade off versus what the mic could do with ambient noise and room echo.

it will be the left and right outputs of the Hirose, so pin 1 and 2 for AES 5+6, pin 3 and 4 for AES 7+8.

i would ask SD for confirmation, but that would be my best guess.

pin 10 i think would be a loop through of the DC input, so can be used if you want to power a receiver with it. the input voltage range is 10-18v. it has nothing to do with AES42, as the powering is provided the same way you would power a P48 mic - with the XLR. when i made myself an input cable for my super CMIT, it didn't use pin 10.

ive been really enjoying his MMX build videos. and through him, have found This Old Tonys channel which i have found very pleasing. and if you enjoy jump cut gags, videos of machinists doing machining, dad jokes, and general silliness, there is a few hours to be spent watching his work. i think the gag at the start of this video is appropriate for this crowd.