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IronFilm

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  • Website URL
    http://ironfilm.co.nz/sound/

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  • Location
    Auckland, New Zealand.
  • About
    Sound Recodist / Boom Op / Sound Utility who is located in Auckland, New Zealand.
  • Interested in Sound for Picture
    Yes

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  1. You make a fair point, but we are also linking back to him as well, I'm sure he's getting far more views (well, relatively speaking for the size of this forum) thanks to this thread being active and discussing it vs if it didn't exist. It's also helpful to share the data further, should their channel ever go offline in the years to come. (unlikely but never impossible)
  2. Another benefit of testing all of them is not just for what you said about where "name brand" battteries might be available, but also: 1) it might discover a new top performer that we've been overlooking, one that could become the "brand name" that everyone then trusts and recommends 2) it can help confirm that the "community wisdom" of whatever is "the best" is indeed that 3) when it's repeated again and again over the long term (he did the same tests 6yrs ago as well) then it can be check on if changes have happened, what if a battery manufacturer makes a big change to their batteries to cut down costs but doesn't alert us to it, yet it impacts battery performance by 9%? Unless you go and test the batteries, you might not catch this. If people want to save themselves from watching a 20 minute video, here is some of the key data from it: HELL YEAH!!
  3. Does it have to be an analog mixer? The Yamaha DM3-D appears to be getting popular with some location sound people who want a smaller format console that's also DC powered.
  4. Wait, how old is the Sonosax M2D2? I thought it is only a handful of years old. Didn't realize it was older than Zaxcom's dual gain recorders. If so, then how come Sonosax couldn't sell their dual gain SX-R4+ in the USA??
  5. Yeah anything Sonosax is going to be crazy expensive. Nope, not mine, but just suggesting it as another option if you're looking for an analog mixing board. A few years ago I was semi seriously considering the PSC Solice Mini, and I guess sometimes still just keep tabs on what's selling, and the PSC Solice I linked to is the bigger brother of the Solice Mini.
  6. The link works fine for me (I'm in New Zealand). Are you logged into Facebook?? Anyway, you can see the exact same one advertised on eBay here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/116418377862 (7.5K euros) btw, you might also be interested in a PSC Solice that just got recently listed on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/286212982876 (US$2.7K)
  7. Here is an easy link to it for anybody reading this thread and curious to follow up with more info: https://jwsoundgroup.net/index.php?/topic/59968-dpa-2017-new-shotgun-mic-for-2023/
  8. Fair enough, from my perspective the benefit(s) of getting rid of cables is: 1) it's a neater / tidier setup, but the Soundbag Dashboard kinda does that too, keeps everything neatly and rigidly in place and never slopping around (which even if velcroed / strapped in place, still does this at least a little bit) 2) maybe ditching weight, but if you're using short and neat cables, then the SL6 (or SL2) setup would be heavier Anyway, that's just my own personal opinion / 2c / feeling about it, that I thought I'd share. Why are you wanting to do it?
  9. Rather than putting more money into a 688 setup, I'd get something cheap like a Soundbag Dashboard for your current situation, then invest in an 833/SL2 later on in the future. https://soundbagdashboards.com/
  10. Heh, I haven't updated my YT channel in ages and ages, am posting about once per year it seems, anywhere, here is another quick update from last night's shoot about my setup with how I had it ready to go for a quick change over for how I'm doing this weekend's shoot:
  11. eSMART Li-48neo velcroed to the side of the receiver with a battery cup going straight to a DC barrel connector would be a fairly small-ish and elgant-ish solution. And would power it all day, and into the next day after, and the day after again! Probably there are even better ways, but that's all that pops into my head right now, been a long day on a shoot, time for bed.
  12. Yes, I know firsthand that DHB has helped several people thanks to finding that aliexpress link and verifying it is as legit Zoom F Controller.
  13. True.... my bad, I'm not the best expert on Zaxcom wireless and I didn't double check that. Hmmm... I guess there is nothing like the Lectro DCR822 (which has internal batteries) or the Lectrosonics SRc (which can use a battery sled) from Zaxcom?
  14. Of course software sliders / dials can always reflect the true values (it is software implemented), unlike physical sliders / knobs because they're not motorized. (to make them motorized would have skyrocketed the price, just like if displays were added to it that would also cause a big increase. Plus there are good reasons why you might not want motorized faders) If you only use the F Control for its purposes, and are not also adjusting the values elsewhere, then you'll never run into this issue of "mismatched values". You really don't need the iPad at the same time. As the Zoom F Control already shows you so much and gives you much control over your mixer: But if you really want to, you can use both at the same time (you can even use a full size keyboard too! To really make your life even easier on set): Again, I highly recommend reading the manual for it 🙂 You'll learn a lot. Then have another read of this thread, you'll likely understand it better and be able to do a better workflow and deliver a better product too at the end of the day.
  15. I'm not to super clued up on all the Zaxcom options, but they definitely have a few dual receivers that are battery powered. (why not just power it from your V Lock battery on your camera?) Such as the RX200: https://zaxcom.com/product/rx200/ For timecode, why not just pick up a small and cheap Deity TC1? What issues do you run into?
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