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    Still photographer with interest in sound in every way.

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  1. I do not own this kind of TC display unit but I’ve custom built and replaced many battery packs in other devices. I would first reach out to the manufacturer or one of their resellers and see if they have a price on a spare and if it’s enough to send the battery to you or if it really need to be replaced by the manufacturer. They most like say it’s needed. Ask yourself if it’s worth it or not. Hassle free often comes at an expense but also with a warranty. Not always a bad thing. After that it’s all about how handy you consider yourself to be. To do it yourself, take a peek at how they are attached to the pcb and fixed to the case. Any wiring can be detached and measured to see voltage. If needed you can remove the label stickers and see if there are a model number written on lipo-cell by the original manufacturer. The text often describe chemistry, size and capacity. Then it’s often as simple as searching for those numbers or sizes on the web and you will find that they are available for different sources. Not always as complete and drop-in ready but ready to solder and drop in. When I look at the photos of cells it looks to be those standard Nokia cells used by half of the world a few years back. I’ll look closer on the workstation later today and get back to you. If so it’s very simple to by new ones replace them.
  2. If it’s new old stock I guess the internal li-ion cells have dropped so low that they are under the voltage level for which the protection circuit need it to be to initiate the charge process. And is the unit is set to need user initiated charge when connected to external power you are stuck I guess. Anyway, if there’s not warranty involved I would simply remove the back of it, disconnect the internal li-ion/lipo pack, measure its cell voltage and see if all have dropped low or only one of them. If they all are far below 2 V each I would not have any faith in them even though they might be able to get going again as they tend to be damaged anyway. If they are just under 2.5V I would use a dedicated li-ion charger from the RC world and use it’s often built in features to revive and cycle the cells besides settings for chem type, capacity, charge current etc. Or order a new pack or build one yourself. There are tricks far outside what should be recommended on how to force them to take charge and it involves setting a profile for NiMh cells and simply push them up to a higher voltage and then change battery type and continue charging as lipo. Unless you have the equipment, understand the risks and know how to take the precautions - this is nothing to continue with. Most often the cells have taken too much damage from being left in a low voltage state to long anyway and should be discharged and left for recycling.
  3. There posts about it the Zaxcom forums. I’ve never used Zaxcom but many other CF card speced hardware. And there are quite a lot of the thicker Type II adapters but only a few thinner Type I adapters and I’ve tried many of them and some are really unreliable in low temps or does not write fast enough while others are stable and good performers. One of the better are the Type I in plastic from Delock. They are rock solid down to -25C during winters as well as high humidity and temps in the 40C. Ans they work great for WiFi cards like the FlashAir if that kind of function is needed. https://www.delock.com/produkte/S_62637/merkmale.html
  4. Also - as the 2.4 GHz band is free there’s a lot of other equipment running on the same bands. WiFi, Bluetooth, microwave, RC-models etc. So even though all newer equipment is needed to do pre-jump channel collision detection it can get very crowded. And the higher frequency the more important line of sight between TX & RX gets. Concrete pillars, large metal plates in 55” displays and humans either reflect or absorb the 2.4 very effective.
  5. Yes the mixpre3 photographed in the FCC docs differs as they used the poorer speced 5558VN during the certification. I believe the 5576EN was not yet released during development. The 5558VN can not reach the specified 120dB S/N unless you do 8-to-2 summing and then you are one channel short. Therefor it seems logical that the MP3 follow the same design solution as the 6 and 10 series which use the 557x and 8-to-4 summing to reach the 120 dB spec. Also the AK5576EN was released later then the 8 channel ADC and there for not available early in the dev process.
  6. The mixpre3 uses the smaller 6 channel AK5576EN in a 6-to-3 mode giving it better dynamic range.
  7. Display Name


    I might even have a pair of the 10k ohm model still at home somewhere. Will do some digging after the holidays. They have not been used for ages.
  8. I experienced the same bit rate changes when I’ve been recording on the field in 192k and then connect it to the computer only to later notice it’s at 96k. Because that’s the max the MP6 support over USB and what used for usb I/o earlier. From that on it have not been a problem for me as I know what to check. But it would be very nice if the mixpre returned to the previous setting again on USB disconnect. Or asked the question to do so.
  9. Display Name


    Those are Elega DR-631 Japanese monitors mainly for broadcast. The models ranged from 8 ohm to 10k. Old and still respected for being flat.
  10. Here's the IATA 60th Edition of DGR effective 1 January 2019. https://www.iata.org/whatwedo/cargo/dgr/Documents/DGR-60-EN-2.3a.pdf They kind of boils down to this: https://www.iata.org/whatwedo/cargo/dgr/Documents/passenger-lithium-battery.pdf
  11. On page 48 of the manual for the MixPre-6 you will find the keyboard shortcuts.
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