rich

the resistors are specific to the Lectro wiring. here is a link to the countryman wiring table https://countryman.com/microphone-wiring/#table and if you search the internet for lectrosonics mic wiring, youll be able to find the lectrosonics sheet with all the various wiring options for their transmitters.

you'll need to remove the top casing of the 688, and possibly some of the screws from the underside as well. once you are able to remove either the top or bottom part of the casing, the battery door will be easy to remove.

ive never tried wiring this mic, but from comparing a COS11 which has an audio and bias wire, my first try would be to connect blue and shield to pin 1 and red to pin 3 though i would at least solder the blue and shield together and prep the red wire, then place the solder insert into a powered up transmitter as it would if it had the outer shell, then touch the cables to pins 1 and 3. if you can hear audio, solder it up and assemble it. if it doesnt work, try with blue to pin 3 and red tied to shield and pin 1.

when i was using my 688 with CL12, the wingman plugged into one of the USB sockets at the back of the CL12. i assume the same will be true with the 633. it would be worth having a look through the 688 and cl12 manuals in case its not mentioned in the 633 manual.

no though it might make a difference with the cable used as it may have a different diameter of the conductor, and so may not fit in the pin of the BNC. but signal wise. it still works whatever you use.

the SNA600 will be seen as a short circuit by anything supplying voltage for powered antennas. the SNA600A fixes this. its a very simple mod if you are comfortable with a soldering iron to do. you'll need to make a break on a part of the circuit board of the antenna and add a capacitor. speak to lectrosonics and they will be able to talk you through what is required, and if not tell you the part you need, send it to you.

thank you for saving me the trouble of posting what you just said. way way way back when, i used to use a miniDA42 until SD updated the 788T to allow limiters on the digital inputs. comparing the DA42 analogue out to the mic through the 788 digital in, i didn't notice any difference in noise floor between the two. the thinking always was that the higher noise floor was a better trade off versus what the mic could do with ambient noise and room echo.

it will be the left and right outputs of the Hirose, so pin 1 and 2 for AES 5+6, pin 3 and 4 for AES 7+8.

i would ask SD for confirmation, but that would be my best guess.

pin 10 i think would be a loop through of the DC input, so can be used if you want to power a receiver with it. the input voltage range is 10-18v. it has nothing to do with AES42, as the powering is provided the same way you would power a P48 mic - with the XLR. when i made myself an input cable for my super CMIT, it didn't use pin 10.

ive been really enjoying his MMX build videos. and through him, have found This Old Tonys channel which i have found very pleasing. and if you enjoy jump cut gags, videos of machinists doing machining, dad jokes, and general silliness, there is a few hours to be spent watching his work. i think the gag at the start of this video is appropriate for this crowd.

it may potentially damage the active distribution if you are unable to turn off (or forget) the antenna powering. most of them will probably have some king of protection in case of a short - which is how the SNA600 would be seen (check it with a voltmeter) its easy enough to mod the 600 to A spec. you need a sharp knife, a soldering iron, and an email to lectrosonics to ask what the spec of capacitor you need to fit to the SNA600. they were happy to post me the parts (two surface mount capacitors (one for each antenna)) in order to do this myself.

I have a magliner fold up cart which I’m very happy with - once I bought the heavy duty wheels.

18 months later, i didnt either. but then, before hitting submit on this, i searched for the MMP-G on the DPA site and found this https://www.dpamicrophones.com/accessories/mmp-g-modular-active-cable-microdot then scrolled down a bit to the tech specs, and found it again.

are you using a sync box on camera? and a digislate - that will prove that the issue is with the camera, and then bounce it over to the sony techs.

Good luck. Meanwhile, I’ll double check all my receivers since I upgraded as I haven’t had a job since.

did ch2 work before you updated? if you retune ch1, can you pick up both tx's? you have double checked that you are trying to tune into the correct frequency i would expect. - you can get full rf from a transmitter on a frequency that is close, but not exactly right. for this testing, you only have two transmitter powered up? nothing else that might be nearby causing problems, like a camera link or IFB transmitter. how hot is the receiver? i have had ch2 behave like this when it got (very) hot. cooling it down brought it back to life. and, have you contacted Audio Ltd? or your local distributor, who should be able to help you with swapping things around so you can eliminate things.

How close were your transmittters to the receiver? Does moving them both over 2 metres away help? if you swap frequencies on the receiver (so that RX1 is now tuned to TX2) does that change anything? —sorry. Just seen that you have already tried that—

www.everythingaudio.co.uk

https://www.everythingaudio.co.uk are on the outskirts of London at Elstree Studios. and my go to place for anything i need to buy or hire, and will generally do everything in their power to make sure you have what you need. www.soundkit.co.uk are another excellent supplier. though i dont think that they deal with rental, just sales. and based in Wales, which is neither London or Yorkshire. https://audiodept.co.uk are also london based, in Chiswick, west London. and are more rental than sales I believe. at least, i have rented more from them than i have bought.

if you are using a BNC connector, then use the cable that fits it. as Jason said - if you are using an RG174 connector - which is what i use for most of my timecode cables, then use RG174 cable. its much easier when making the BNC as the connector and cable are designed to be compatible. get yourself a crimp tool for the BNC, as thats how they are designed to be made. i got a cheap Rolson one from Maplin whilst they were still going. hopefully you have something similar in Vienna you can get a hold of.

muffins. yes. they are still cheerios.

we record on the left, rather than the right.

before you start sending it away, just check what timecode mode you are on. if its some of the external tc settings, then it wont hold timecode. i would expect ext/cont is the setting that would do that from memory.

im going to bet that Richards post suggesting to put an XLR on and get the transmitter away from the mic removes the hiss. so, a few questions. what mic are you using and what suspension? i had problems with my mics until i cut the connection between pin 1 of the XLR and the shell of the suspension - i was using Cinela mounts. whilst that flies against what everyone knows should be a good thing to prevent noise, it pretty much eliminated most hiss i would be hearing. taping the antenna to the boom pole also worked, but not to the same extent.