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  1. I thought I'd share my opinions on this lightweight battery I came across. Introduction: This is a mini V-lock battery called the FXLion Nano One. It has D-tap, USB-A and USB-C for powering various devices. It's very flexible as it can be charged in a standard V-lock charger, via D-tap, AND USB! So I recently upgraded from the MixPre-6 to a MixPre-10 II and needed a "real" battery instead of a USB power bank. Since I have various video gear anyway, I wanted something I could throw on a LED-light if needed etc. Performance: I tested an "average" use case on the MixPre-10, recording 2 Phantom mics, 2 radio mics, and the LR Mix. After a little more than 6 hours and 30 minutes of recording, the battery started flashing as the voltage dropped below 12V. I'm sure it could have squeezed out a few more minutes but I wouldn't risk it. I was using it with a D-tap to 4-pin Hirose cable. So a pair of these would get you through a production day, especially if you can keep the other one charging. Your mileage will vary depending on the gear you're powering, of course. Conclusion: It's not exactly a low-budget solution (I paid about 140€ excl. VAT per one), however, you can get away without buying a separate charger / battery cups etc. I think it's a nice intermediate alternative to the NP / smart battery systems on smaller bag setups. I hope at least one of you finds this useful or interesting. 🙂 Thanks!
  2. Had my 633 latch up half way through a job yesterday Turned power on the initial Sound Devices screen appeared but recorder did not boot up Switching off and removing power did nothing and the machine just stayed with screen on After about 25 minutes the machine turned off and allowed normal boot up when powered up Quite and embarrassing situation to be in! Any advice or comments please? mike
  3. Hi All, Can anyone recommend good sources for batteries and chargers (re-chargable Eneloop, Sony L-Type, etc.) in Toronto area? Comparison shopping at the moment for what is available locally prior to going online. Thank you for any tips and suggestions. Best Regards, Dave
  4. Hi! I have three wireless systems from Audio Limited Envoy series that supports external powering. The thing is that two of the recievers are CXIR and supports power between 7-18 volts, and one MXIR that only supports 7-12 volts. The current draw is 55-150mah from the recievers. I am looking for a solution to externally power all the three from one battery. I have looked at some NP style 11.1 volt batteries, as well as Li-on batterys such as the Inspired Energy ones. I've also looked at the 14.4 volts NP style batteries, but then I have to step down the 14.4 volts to 12 in a way that still makes the battery happy. Have looked into some RC NiMH packs as well but I miss the indicator feature of those. I have all the cables for this, but I would love to get some advice of how to do this in a good and safe way. Thanks.
  5. Hi there, I'm coming next from France for a shooting in Miami FLA, and because of transportation restrictions,I can't bring with me my soundcart batteries, which are Hawkwoods XB1-520 or XB1-340,but it seems I can't find them in tne USA. Do you confirm? So what big batteries do you use? Production offered me Anton Bauer VSLX (too big for my cart) and PSC Pelican LiFE (not powerful enough),do ou use something else,small,lithium technology and at least 330 Wh? Thanks for your advices Best regards David RIT
  6. Hi, Has anyone had any experience using portable car jump starter power bank’s as an external battery for their location sound equipment? I’m looking for a budget external battery for my basic boom and lav kit and have come across these. It seems to have a good capacity, output’s 12v, fairly light weight and be very affordable compared to NP1 solutions. Or am I missing something? Here are some example’s of the product: http://www.ebay.com/itm/68800mAh-4USB-Multi-Function-Car-Jump-Starter-Power-Bank-Rechargable-Battery-12V-/371500798517?hash=item567f2c5235:g:AYoAAOSw2GlXKWrt&item=371500798517&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/68800mAh-4USB-Car-Jump-Starter-Emergency-Charger-Booster-Power-Bank-Battery-SOS-/381494287043?hash=item58d2d4dac3:g:SEIAAOSwKfVXFY4s&item=381494287043&vxp=mtr http://www.amazon.com/T-Face-Multi-Function-68800mAh-Starter-Charger/dp/B01DITJA64/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463578981&sr=8-1&keywords=jump+starter+power+bank+68800 http://www.amazon.com/Starter-Portable-20000mAh-Multi-Function-20000MAH/dp/B013I9KPOU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1463578909&sr=8-13&keywords=jump+starter+power+bank Regards, Luke
  7. I recently dropped and NP1 on a shoot, and found a crack on the shell that exposes a bit of the battery near the connections. For now, I've carefully super glued the thing together, but I know that wont last. Is it possible for me to just buy another NP1 plastic shell to re-house the battery? Is that even possible to swap it?
  8. Hey Sound Geeks, I'm unsure about the TRXLA2's power roll set up as I'm getting some readings on the screen that seem weird and aren't explained in the manual. I could do with some advise please. I thought the settings to use power roll from 25mw to 125mw should be: TX POWER set to 25MW and POWER ROLL set to record trigger. This would then boost the power to full from the dormant power setting (25mw) However, when power roll is set to on the TX POWER screen shows (50MW) underneath where the power setting shows 25MW. what does the power in brackets mean? Also, with the above settings, when i go into the power roll screen (which is set to record trigger) it momentarily flashes up with a '50MW'. what does this mean? is that the power it's kicking up to when record is engaged? The other way someone suggested it could work is to select full power in the power screen and turn power roll on. Enabling the power roll would reduce the power from 125mw to 25mw when not recording. Which way round is it? What settings are you guys using?...Glenn?!...Help!! Many thanks
  9. Hi! I just order a Zaxcom Maxx and I thinking about the battery system for it. I had thought in a Sony NPF battery system and Hawk-Woods adapter. It would be: -Hawk-woods DV-SQN2S (12V) (with the possibility of power too a Lectrosonics receiver) -2x Sony NPF-970 6600mAh 7.2V I have doubts about which could be the duration of each battery (run time) with Maxx? Typical configuration, 1 channel phantom power and 4 channel recording. Sorry by my English! Thanks!!
  10. How much is the working voltage of zaxcom erx2tcd? Product manual can not find, only to see can use lithium battery. Do not know whether the use of two 3.2 volt lithium rechargeable battery two is 6.4 volts.
  11. Hi everyone, We have collaborated with Hawkwoods to produce The Power Distribution Rack aimed at primarily soundies. It has a 4 pin XLR input socket, four 4 pin XLR 12v outputs (with a combined rating of 5A), and six unregulated 4 pin XLR outputs. Two USB connectors are included for powering/charging compatible devices with a combined rating of 2A. The LED screen displays battery voltage remaining in red and total current being drawn in blue. Please see the pictures below and let us know what you think. Cheers, Nathan.
  12. Hey all, I'm looking to upgrade the power system I use for my current bag setup but wanted to get some recommendations? I currently use an Anton Bauer system which is somewhat heavy and I've built it all myself with 4-pin xlr but it was free so its what I got. I'd like to update to an NP style system for weight but also I'd like to get some sort of distribution system. Does anyone on here use the Remote Audio BDS system or do you just make a DIY system yourself?
  13. Hey Everyone, Just want to hear your opinion on a few things: 1. What is the best position for the LED power status indicator on a NP battery? 2. If a DC power connector was available, what type and where would you like it (D-Tap or Hirose, left/right side, top, etc.)? Thanks! -Zack
  14. Saw this link on the Metric Halo mailing list and thought it mght be of interest to anyone thinking of rolling their own power distribution system. http://www.mini-box.com/OpenUPS Regards, John
  15. Okay, so I just wanted to through this out there to see that you all though. I have been looking for a good and less expensive than the NP-1 route to power the gear in my bag and have though of something interesting. But before I go trying something dumb and breaking my new toys, I thought Id post all about it here and see what you guys came back with. So here we go: One of my deepest passions in life has always been photography and pretty much all areas of it at that. The area in particular that got me thinking was that of on location portraiture. Specifically the power sources photographers need and use to power profressional studio strobes. In my on location portraiture gear kit, I own a couple portable battery powered inverters that I use to drive my stobes. Now the part that go me thinking was the Li-Ion batteries that these come with (and can be purchased separately) and their voltage output and capacity. Doing some reasearch I found that a standard and popular NP-1 style battery (in this case the IDX NP-L7S LINK) is a 14.6v, 4.6Ah (4600mAh) battery that yeilds 68Wh. I found the following equation to help me with some simple calculations: Wh = (mAh / 1000) * V Inserting the specs from the IDX NP-L7S battery we get: (4600/1000) * 14.6 = 4.6 * 14.6 = 67.16 which is approximately the quoted 68Wh Okay, so I just ran that calc to check the equation and verify some values. Now, the battery I found is a bit different shapped, but it offers the specs of 14.8v, 8.8Ah (8800mAh) yeilding what I calculate to be approx 130Wh. Heres the math: (8800/1000) * 14.8 = 8.8 * 14.8 = 130.24 which is approximately 130Wh Fine, so why go through all this trouble? Well, this battery I own is $89 and the charger, is $29. Thats a whole lot more appealing that the minimum of $200+ for an NP-1 battery and charger setup. And it fits nicely in the back pocket of a Petrol PS607 bag. The Battery: LINK The Charger: LINK So what Im thinking now is this: the connection on this battery is a standard crimp on connection type thats pretty cheap. Ill post a link when I find one, I just cant remember what that dang things are called at the moment, plus Ive had a couple beers at this point which isnt helping. But making a simple cable from these two connectors to say the Sound Devices Bare Hirose 4-pin HR10-7P-4P Power Connector (Pins 1(-) and 4(+) from the SD manual) LINK should be no problem at all. Or even cheaper here: LINK. And just like that you have a power source that is roughly twice the run time of an NP-1. Now the part Im having a bit of trouble with and that I hoping someone out there can help me out on is how do I wire this up to split the source so that I can power both a 702 and 302 from the same battery. Wiring two Hirose connections in parallel from the red and black connector (whatever its called) should do it right? At least thats what Im thinking. Ive attached a few pics of the various parts, including the battery shown fitted nicely in the back pouch of a Petrol PS607 bag. Now believe me, I know Im not the first to suggest some DIY battery combo, nor will I be the last. But the fact that this setup could potentially be cheaper and longer running than some other options makes it something at least to consider. Especially for me since I already own it! So, what do you guys think? Is it worth pursuing or am I just heading to blow up my 702?
  16. Hello friends, I have an SRB with all of the optional attachments, and I am about to build a d tap cable. Unfortunately, I am completely inexperienced with using a d tap to power anything. Does this connector exist on the camera or the battery? Should I expect that camera will be using d tap for something else and be prepared with some type of splitter? If it helps, I am preparing to connect to a Sony F5 which doesn't have the slot for an SRB. Related question: What if I am on a camera that has neither a slot nor a d tap option? Does anyone make an external power supply for the SRB to solve this?
  17. <p>Hello all,</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>I'm making a minimal-pack trip to the USA and have been looking for an alternative to the usual NP-1 suspects with regard to batteries. I've come across a company called Tracer</p> <p>(<a href="http://www.deben.com/tracer-battery-packs.html">http://www.deben.com/tracer-battery-packs.html</a>) which makes LiPo packs for the hunting community and at a reasonable price, 8AH/12v for around US$160, which seems like a good deal. I'm just wondering of anyone has any experience of using this type of battery on a home-brew BDS, or straight powering and, if so, if there's anything I should know about.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>It'll be used to power my ST450, which only uses 7 Watts, so it should give me a decent length of time per charge.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Any information or caveats much appreciated.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>Thanks,</p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p>John</p>
  18. So I recently received my Nomad and based on the recommendations of a few people on this forum, decided to go with the Hawkwoods DVSQN4S to power my bag. I tested it out on a shoot over the weekend and I am not getting the run time I was expecting and worse, I lost power during a take twice at a voltage on the battery meter that I shouldn't have. I will readily admit that I am very green when it comes to battery chemistry and power distribution so, I don't know if I'm missing something obvious, but this is my understanding so far of my setup: The Sony batteries I'm using are 7.2V and 7800mAh so I should be getting 14.4V Nomad operates between 10 -18VDC Hawkwoods DVSQN4S has 12V regulated output Nomad displayed around 16.4V with fresh batts and would kick off around 14V on the meter. I was only powering the Nomad. Any ideas what is happening? -Bradley
  19. Hi everyone- I'm looking for a panel mount connector that is basically a feed-thru. 4 Pin XLR-M to 4Pin XLR-F And also the reverse. I pretty much don't want to solder anything. Any ideas? Thanks Aron
  20. Yesterday I experienced a funny issue with an externally powered 788T. The power source was, apparently, somewhat less reliable and dropped out a few times. Normally the 788T should switch to the "internal" (back side) battery, but it didn't. Instead it just went OFF without saving. Anybody else experienced this?
  21. Hi all, I'm building my first sound cart for my first feature film. Now I'm looking for a way to power and charge it. Of course I've found Powermax, PSC and Meon, but they are way out of my budget right now. Anyone experience in powering equipment without the expensive powering systems, with lead acid batteries? It needs to run my SD744, a 442, 3 wireless sennheiser, all on hirose. And if possible I'd like it to run my macbook as well... Anyone some DIY-tips?
  22. I'm doing sound for a documentary and I'm considering using a QRX or RS900 on a Red One as camera hops. I would like to know if anyone has experience powering them from a Red One specifically. How well does it work (if at all), how do the camera batteries fare, and what do camera operators think about it? Are there better options than camera powering? Or should I just go with a scratch track from an IFB like a Lectro IFB-R1a or Zaxcom ERX? I'd like to provide my two track mix to camera for editorial and there will be situations where I don't want to tether. I've read the thread about externally powering a QRX: I don't do wireless hops very often so I don't know if it's worth my time and money to invest in a dedicated external power solution for the QRX. Mark O.
  23. Hi everyone I have been in the look for a new mixer for the cart. I have been using a rental CL-9 and was thinking on buying one. But i hate the fact that i have to loose an iso for a talkback mic. So i'm thinking that if i'm going to loose an iso, at least i should gain better preamps and outputs, so i'm looking into an external mixer, like a cooper or audio developments. But i have seen a lot of people using the yamaha 01v96, or sonosax or similar. I would love the extra channels and outputs and all, but i'm just wondering, how do you power it on the cart? They only accept 120-240v, so do you use an inverter or similar? Thanks a lot Diego
  24. I am building my cart and after seeing many people using the yamaha 0196vi as their front end I have decided to use the Midas Venice F as Midas offers far superior audio products to Yamaha and far superior features. Primarily because I like Midas Preamps and because I like the idea of firewire and analog direct outs instead of USB as in the o196vi. My question relates to powering these AC behemoths. I will of course be running on 12 volt DC cart power from my Meon. Is there an efficient way to convert DC to AC for the mixer? I would think that the midas console actually uses DC power internally and converts the AC input to DCinternally. Is there a way to bypass its AC-DC converter and go straight in as DC? Seems silly to convert power twice, that being said does this have any drawbacks (as in are power inverters efficient?). How have other mixers solved this problem when using gear that is designed to be plugged to AC. I have already asked the guys at Midas about it but hoping for some insight from you guys too. Chris
  25. Most electronic equipment is designed to operate at voltage levels of 120 volts in North America or 230 volts in Europe. Occasionally some very current hungry equipment might be powered from 208 volts in North America. Regardless of the power line voltage, power supplies inside the electronic equipment convert this AC voltage into much smaller DC voltages that power the integrated circuits and transistors which in turn do the work inside the preamp, mixing console, graphic equalizer or amplifier. Voltage surges are a commonly recognized but somewhat misunderstood power quality phenomenon. They are typically hundreds or even thousands of volts in amplitude, and may contain substantial amounts of energy. Back in the days when electronics was largely based on vacuum tubes, a voltage surge of a thousand volts might not have’ been a big deal. It’s much more of a problem, however, for systems that use solid state components whose operating voltages are five volts or less. The damage caused by a voltage surge may be either visible or invisible. If surge energy is large, destruction of an electronic device may occur, and damage will be tangible in the form of charred components. Unfortunately, surges don’t always cause outright damage. Sometimes surges contain smaller energy amounts, and the damage they cause is invisible. That’s because smaller energy amounts merely erode semiconductor material at a microscopic level - a phenomenon sometimes called “electronic rust.” The component gradually degrades, and damage accumulates with repeated exposure to smaller energy surges. Eventually the component fails and usually without visible damage. It’s difficult to associate cause with effect in such cases, and equipment failure may often not be attributed to voltage surges at all. DEFINING THE PROBLEM Voltage surges come in different shapes and sizes depending on where they occur in a facility. The Institute of Electrical and Electronic Engineers (IEEE), in its standard IEEE C62.41, classifies voltage surges as Category A, Category B, or Category C according to where they occur within a building’s electrical system. The figure at right illustrates the three general categories. Category A surges are associated with long branch circuits, the type that typically power audio equipment. Category B surges are found near the service entrance to the building (short branch circuits), and Category C surges are those found at the service entrance or outside the building. Not surprisingly as one moves from Category A to Category C, the maximum voltage amplitude of the surge along with the maximum surge current and surge energy become greater. Category A surges may measure up to 6,000 volts and 200 amps while Category B surges may measure up to 6,000 volts and 500 amps. In Category C locations, substantially larger voltages and currents are possible. In addition to lightning, surges have a variety of causes. Some are internal, some external, and some quite mundane. Large loads like the motors used in elevators and air conditioners can cause voltage surges every time they start and stop. When a power outage occurs, the rapid de-energization of electrical loads throughout the grid also generates substantial voltage surges. In one documented case, a faulty light bulb socket in a refrigerator caused surges of as much as 5,000 volts whenever the refrigerator door was opened or closed. APPROPRIATE SOLUTIONS Surge energy is mitigated by using a surge diverter. As its name implies, this is a device that reacts to surge voltages over a certain threshold by diverting surge energy away from the power conductor to ground. If the system is microprocessor based (such as an audio mixing console), this is undesirable because the diversion action will create a neutral to ground voltage that is likely to cause system upset. If part of a larger, interconnected system, surge energy on ground is likely to circulate throughout the entire system on the grounding conductors. Surge protectors should never be installed at the end of a branch circuit for these reasons. The most appropriate place for a surge diverter is at the service entrance of the building where it will divert surge energy directly to the building’s earth reference without causing a neutral to ground voltage or disruption to computer-based systems within the building. At the point where the electronic system plugs into the branch circuit, a much higher level of protection is desirable. At this point, the goal is to eliminate both destruction and electronic rust and to do it without creating a neutral to ground voltage that will disrupt the system. The best way of accomplishing this is with a power protection solution that uses an isolation transformer. Properly designed solutions can limit even catastrophic power disturbances to insignificant levels ensuring both the survivability and operability of the system. http://www.prosoundweb.com/article/voltage_surges_the_real_world_of_power_quality_problems/P1/
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