Last Rites Films Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 Hey folks, I am attempting to wire my own TA3F to XLRM cable and I am having problems with the TA3 end. I am using Audio-Technica cable, and it is too just thick to fit through the boot (even with the rubber part removed). I used plenty of elbow grease, but I could not get it through. When I compared the AT cable to the ones manufactured by Sound Devices, I definitely saw a noticeable difference in thickness. Apparently, SD uses a cable called Gepco International. I've never heard of it. I was wondering if I could trouble y'all for your recommendations for a thinner cable that works well with TA3 connectors. Specifically, I'm looking for model numbers. I know Canare and such are excellent quality cables, I just don't know what gauge I need. Thanks! Quote
Eric Toline Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 You need to enlarge the back end opening either by grinding it out or use your soldring iron to melt away whats restricting the cable. The Canare cable you want is L-2E5. Actually any 2 conductor shielded cable will work for your purpose. See picture for an example. BTW http://www.gepco.com, they've been around since 1985. Quote
Rick Reineke Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 I also use the Canare L-2E5. (miniature version of L-2T2S) The Star-Quad miniature version is L-4E5C only a few cents more than the L-2T2S @ 0.45ft, The Star-Quad is more of a PITA to works with though and not totally necessary for line-level applications IMHO. In addition the Neutrik-Rean miniature XLR plugs (TA series) are easier to work with than the Switchcraft.. again IMO. Quote
Last Rites Films Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Posted September 7, 2012 Many thanks Eric and Rick! Got the cable through, but I just couldn't assemble it correctly. I'm using a Switchcraft plug and it is absolutely maddening! Definitely going to try a thinner cable and a Rean plug next time. Someday I'm going to get this... Quote
soundtrane Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 whether it is a rean or a switchcraft, to solder small connectors: 1. you need a grip (vice) to hold the connector part firmly in ONE position at a time 2. you need right kind of tweezers to hold the cable in place 3. you need a magnifier and strong focused light 4. you need a steady hand with the soldering iron, and the tweezers of course 5. good to put heatshrink on the terminals if possible just some pointers to help you... Quote
Chase Yeremian Posted September 7, 2012 Report Posted September 7, 2012 I am not sure where you are located, but Gepco is in Burbank and you can order cable direct from them and pick it up Will Call. Probably be around 50c a foot. Quote
RandyHall Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 whether it is a rean or a switchcraft, to solder small connectors: 1. you need a grip (vice) to hold the connector part firmly in ONE position at a time 2. you need right kind of tweezers to hold the cable in place 3. you need a magnifier and strong focused light 4. you need a steady hand with the soldering iron, and the tweezers of course 5. good to put heatshrink on the terminals if possible just some pointers to help you... I would add: 6. Paste rosin solder flux. Dab a little (or more) on the contact and on the wire. Once they are mechanically stuck together (with vise and/or tweezers and/or clips), melt solder onto a very fine tipped soldering iron. Then touch the glob of molten solder to the wire and once the wire and contact are heated enough, the solder will flow quite nicely. On small gauge wires, and with a lot of practice, shouldn't take more than 1-2 seconds to get a good joint. And don't breathe the fumes if you can help it. Quote
Eric Toline Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 Almost all solder is rosin core so external flux is not required. Connections and wires should be tinned so just touching the iron tip to them melts the tinned solder, neat, clean and fast. Eric Quote
John Blankenship Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 Almost all solder is rosin core so external flux is not required. Connections should be tinned so just touching the iron tip to them melts the tinned solder, neat, clean and fast. +1 Quote
RandyHall Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 Almost all solder is rosin core so external flux is not required. Connections and wires should be tinned so just touching the iron tip to them melts the tinned solder, neat, clean and fast. Eric I find you get better joints by using some extra paste flux, regardless of rosin core. Much, if not most, of the flux in the solder itself gets burned off when melting it to the tip of the iron. YMMV, but this works really well for me. And of course tinning connections helps, but certain connection points (solder cups for XLR, as an example) are harder to effectively pre-tin and be able to get a clean joint. Quote
John Blankenship Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 ,,,but certain connection points (solder cups for XLR, as an example) are harder to effectively pre-tin and be able to get a clean joint. I find just the opposite. Quote
Eric Toline Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 I find you get better joints by using some extra paste flux, regardless of rosin core. Much, if not most, of the flux in the solder itself gets burned off when melting it to the tip of the iron. YMMV, but this works really well for me. And of course tinning connections helps, but certain connection points (solder cups for XLR, as an example) are harder to effectively pre-tin and be able to get a clean joint. You have to fill the cups with solder so when you insert the tinned wire you get a good connection with the cup solder covering the wire. If you can see the strands of wire in the cup on the finished connection there's not enough solder in the cup and the solder should be shiney. If it looks dull there's a cold solder joint in the making. Using .032 diameter solder is my preferred size for all audio connectors Eric Quote
John Blankenship Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 You have to fill the cups with solder so when you insert the tinned wire you get a good connection with the cup solder covering the wire. If you can see the strands of wire in the cup on the finished connection there's not enough solder in the cup and the solder should be shiney. If it looks dull there's a cold solder joint in the making. Using .032 diameter solder is my preferred size for all audio connectors Again +1 ...except he's waaaay off on the size of solder. I'm currently using Kester 66/44 ("44" ROSIN CORE) but at .031 diameter <g>. Quote
studiomprd Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 (edited) I plan to use leaded solder as long as I can... the unleaded solders being used are more difficuult to use, and the results are subject to more potential problems (like cracking) than the slowly disappearing leaded, rosin core solder I have stocked up on Edited September 15, 2012 by studiomprd Quote
Eric Toline Posted September 14, 2012 Report Posted September 14, 2012 I plan to use leaded solder as long as I can... Jeeze Mike, give it a rest. Nobody cares what you plan to do. Maybe you could get a job as a solder sucker. Eric Quote
Boomboom Posted September 15, 2012 Report Posted September 15, 2012 If you feel like you reeeeally want star quad cable there ( even if it's a short run) there's also the L4E5C that you can use; same diameter as the L2ES cable... You can also skin the cable a little longer and put shrink tube between the last plastic part you slide on the cable (that goes over your soldered pins) and the metallic crimp part; you heat-shrink before sliding the metallic crimp and crimp the whole thing before screwing the cap. Quite secure/good compromise. What I also do is, when I split the braiding (shield-ground) from both sides of the cable (kind of " un-knitting" it ) is I ditch one these two separated sides of the braid ( I thightly twist it then cut it along the cable). Much easier to deal with that ground size when thinning/ soldering time comes on these tiny TA pins. Quote
RandyHall Posted September 17, 2012 Report Posted September 17, 2012 You have to fill the cups with solder so when you insert the tinned wire you get a good connection with the cup solder covering the wire. If you can see the strands of wire in the cup on the finished connection there's not enough solder in the cup and the solder should be shiney. If it looks dull there's a cold solder joint in the making. Using .032 diameter solder is my preferred size for all audio connectors Well, we differ on technique, but the result is the same. I still like doing it my way better, go figure. Quote
Eric Toline Posted September 17, 2012 Report Posted September 17, 2012 Well, we differ on technique, but the result is the same. I still like doing it my way better, go figure. Randy, Check out this link for Shrink tape. Great for those times when you want to shrink tube a connection and you forgot to do it before the connector went on. http://www.shrinktape.com Eric Quote
soundtrane Posted September 17, 2012 Report Posted September 17, 2012 <<If it looks dull there's a cold solder joint in the making.>> Depends on the kind of solder one is using - lead-free with Cu+Ag does not shine brightly... Quote
RScottATL Posted September 22, 2012 Report Posted September 22, 2012 it is too just thick to fit through the boot (even with the rubber part removed). I used plenty of elbow grease, but I could not get it through. If it is barely big enough, but is just offering too much resistance, I've been putting some WD40 on a paper towel and rubbing the tip of the wire to allow the boot and rubber seal to slide over the cable. Quote
chris_bollard Posted September 22, 2012 Report Posted September 22, 2012 Mogami make a quad cable thin enough to fit thru the boot without any issues. Unfortunately I don't have the model number on hand. With the Canare cable I remove the boot and use one or two bits of heat shrink. Soldering is a personal thing; whatever works for you. I always tin both the connector (fill the indent with solder) and the wire then briefly heat the connector and bring the cable into place. I'm still running leaded solder but the roll is almost finished..... Quote
Eric Toline Posted September 22, 2012 Report Posted September 22, 2012 Star quad of any size is overkill for a TA3 interconnect. Any decent 2 conductor shielded cable is more than capeable of doing the job. Eric Quote
tvaudioman Posted December 1, 2012 Report Posted December 1, 2012 I enjoy reading the different ideas and techniques on soldering. For TA3f and TA5f jumpers and adapter cables, I have used the "inner" cables of multipair cables. The diameter usually works well and the colors can be nice for identification. Quote
Eric Toline Posted December 2, 2012 Report Posted December 2, 2012 Mogami make a quad cable thin enough to fit thru the boot without any issues. Unfortunately I don't have the model number on hand. With the Canare cable I remove the boot and use one or two bits of heat shrink. Soldering is a personal thing; whatever works for you. I always tin both the connector (fill the indent with solder) and the wire then briefly heat the connector and bring the cable into place. I'm still running leaded solder but the roll is almost finished..... Do not intermix the leaded solder with the "non leaded" solder in the same connection as they don't play well with each other. Eric Quote
Marc Wielage Posted December 2, 2012 Report Posted December 2, 2012 I plan to use leaded solder as long as I can... I love the smell of melted lead solder in the morning! Quote
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