John Blankenship

There should be no issues -- their firmware is designed so the end user can easily do it. Just carefully follow the update instructions step-by-step and you'll be fine. Note what the update instructions state about previous versions. There is a point way back in firmware history that requires a transmitter to visit the mothership, but that information is clearly laid out and yours may not go back that far. Also, there was a point with the QRX200 that you needed to install an intermediate version in order to apply the latest. However, it's possible you won't encounter that earlier version either. No need to go to the trouble and expense when you can easily do it yourself. If you're good at following directions without the compulsion to ignore and improvise, all will be fine.

What Johnny said put another way: Cinela mounts are overpriced... until you use one.

You seem to have made the point pretty well -- that for lights, one should use a light stand.

Philip put it so well! Eighteen years of JWS, and Jeff continues to contribute so much to the world of production sound!

Happy Birthday, Jeff!

If the game has a frequency coordinator you must clear any frequencies with them ahead of time. If it's an NFL game you must now use only encrypted systems. You may need to go through PR for wiring permissions but when wiring (as Edward stated above), work with the equipment manager.

Contact Gene Martin at The Audio Department.

A little over a year ago I undertook to find another adapter that would allow me to reliably use an SD as a mirror card. I had one that worked but couldn't find a duplicate. Most that I ordered (being able to do Amazon returns really helped) didn't work well. I found a particular model that is reliable in a Nova, a Nomad, and a Deva V. The Deva V didn't work with all vintages of cards, but the other two devices were rock solid and the V works fine with the proper SD card. Tests included recording and mirroring sixteen tracks for a few hours and showed no issues. For the last year I've been using these with solid results -- mostly in a Nova or Nomad. I found there were adapter versions that appeared to be the same with minor differences but didn't work properly so finding the exact version is critical. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD8ZP1P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is a link based on my orders but I make no promises as to the suitability in anyone else's application, and also be aware that manufacturers sometimes make internal changes without notice. However, when I bought several of the blue ones a year ago they all tested out flawlessly. Just don't blame me if YMMV. Ironically, while Amazon shows this link as my reorder point, below is the specific look of the adapters that I use. Note the addition of the SD XC. If anybody orders these let everyone know exactly what it looks like and how well it works. Good luck!

That's not been my experience having used one for several years now. I would caution anyone not to compare it to others that appear to be similar.

Exactly what you're looking for: Camp Time Roll-A-Chair https://www.camptime.com/collections/chair Compact, durable, light weight, and surprisingly comfortable.

If you're altering the audio signal in the digital domain how do you separate the signal from the noise when adjusting the AES gain?

Chris, All your answers are already in this thread. The link I posted for Amazon still works but the price has gone up three dollars.

Harmonics are what give any sound its full character. The fundamental frequency is essentially just a pure sine wave. The various harmonics extend much higher depending upon the complexity of the sound. Then, add to that, the aforementioned sibilants and you can see (okay, hear) why we're dealing with so much more than just a fundamental frequency.

A block-specific filtered cable is your solution. Contact Gene at the Audio Department. Note: You'll also have a higher max SPL with 48v.

Really nice web site and a great resource for both customers and prospective customers alike.

Some of the early JB-1s had an issue with a wrong component installed. Denecke fixed mine at no charge. The issue I had that led me onto this was that the voltage output would slowly diminish on one of my units (I compared two units with a VOM at different voltages).

The blind spot seems to be that without patent protection, smaller companies whose raison d’être is innovation would cease to exist.

I find myself rather baffled by IronFilm's stance against innovation in the marketplace. .

While I'm a gear-head and a geek who loves equipment, my best investment by far is the time spent learning my craft -- and it continues.

You're overthinking it at that point. Any professional receiver will handle the signal from passive shark fins fine provided the transmitters are a reasonable distance away. i.e. Double the distance and you get 1/4th the power. As noted, where you can get into trouble is if signal amplification is added if not needed.

Yes. The one caveat I would offer is that it's good practice to have the batteries fairly well balanced. That means the same type and capacity, amount of charge, etc. Although, when swapping batteries my experience is you can do one and then the other, with no problem. I will add -- proceed at your own risk and don't hold me responsible for anything you try. (Even though I have three different bag systems and a cart working fine this way.)

In keeping with what Bouke said... For anyone who didn't get the memo, Drop Frame time code does NOT drop any frames, it simply counts them differently. A more accurate term would be Skip Count time code.

This is a forum designed by, and for, the people you hire when you want professional sound.

I added the "auto retract" feature from K-Tech. It's a tiny little motor that lives within the right angle bottom piece. When your day is finished, you loosen the collars slightly, then push the recessed button and it does all the rest for you -- the pole finishes retracting, the internal cable is perfectly coiled, there's nothing more to do. For the addition of only 3.2 ounces, it makes wrapping quicker and easier. I understand they're only available for a short period of time, so get yours now!

I have something like eight of the Ambient sets, added to over many years, and don't have issues with jamming, sluggishness, or damaging threads. I find the key is how one uses them. Don't slam them closed but guide them shut, then give a bit more twist to make sure they're fully seated. As far as damaging threads, you don't need to crank the Allen screw very tight -- just enough to secure it. Unless the boom pole threads are extremely soft it shouldn't flatten them enough to be an issue. Mine are on various K-Tek and vDB poles, along with some other mounts such as antennas, etc. If I were to want something different I would also recommend the SGS ones.