rich

i use the EW-D system for my team to communicate between ourselves. it has the advantage over the G4 in that when they are out of range, the system mutes, rather than pop and splat. now that there is a portable receiver, i may be able to keep them talking when i have to use the bag rig.

no. that was the mistake i made. it also affects the signal to the Nexus. it does say so in the manual. but i failed to notice that. repeatedly.

please dont make the same mistake that i did, and remember that when you use the cascade out, you lose 3.5dB from the system. so you will need to add an additional 4dB of gain to your antennas to compensate.

there is a bug when using the cascade outs and the wisycom LFA remote control function. the antenna behaves normally in terms of RF. but when using the cascade output, the remote function is buggy. if you arent using the cascade out, you will be fine.

i havent used mine as much as id like, but... the only not quite crash i have had is when i was finding what didnt work when using wisycom LFA antennas. as far as i am aware team SD are aware of the issue, and hopefully a firmware fix will be available soon. no issues with stability otherwise. tx battery life when managing with Nexlink would easily get to lunch. about 25-35% left most often. couldnt comment on nexlink interfering with other gear. but i imagine it to be no worse than a set full of peoples phones with bluetooth on and any other frequency hopping 2.4GHz tech. i have had 6 A20 minis since they were available. i have had to replace one battery catch in that time. thats all. range is fine. but again i havent had enough time with it to work out how to get the performance from it that i feel i could get with my A10 receivers in an A10 rack. though i am waiting on the aforementioned firmware fix for the wisycom antennas before getting to far into testing again. and thats not to say range is poor. just in walk tests i did initially i didnt get as far as i could previously. maybe 10m difference. though i felt i needed to use 10mw output, rather than the 2mw i was using previously.

The resistor is there to reduce the level of the mic so the transmitter doesn’t overload. that’s the preferred wiring for COS11s and Lectrosonics.

d'oh. it is the X+

correct. i do not want the motorised faders. they behave weirdly with my 888 - they jump to random positions and sometimes have a bit of resistance when initially moved. i dont change the fader bank. my M+ is a backup, and having fader banks doesnt seem practical for anything requiring a quick adjustment. if i needed more faders and i wasnt using my scorpio / CL16 setup, i guess id be using the faders for the additional channels on my ipad. 888 only powered up - 10.53W (16.2v 0.65A) M+ powered up via USB (no D2) - 11.63W (16.15v 0.72A) M+ powered up via USB with D2 - 12.25W (16.12v 0.76A) M+ powered with 12v and with D2 - 13.04W (16.1v 0.8A)

i have just tested to confirm. if i connect my X+ to my 888 via USB only, the X+ powers up (including the D2 display) and fader and gain control works fine.

i havent tried it with my scorpio, but with my 888, i just plugged in the USB only (no power) and it worked without doing much else. i tried using 12v power, but the faders behaved weirdly, so unless you need the flying faders, dont bother with a power cable.

since i have been using my Nexus, i have, for the most part been able to stick with one battery in the morning, and one in the afternoon. Nexlink has proved very good at helping extend battery life by powering the transmitters between setups etc. (i appreciate that if you arent doing drama, then this isnt as great a benefit) however, i feel the same as you about redundancy, and so dont think i will be moving on my A10 racks and receivers just yet.

i have had no luck whatsoever in trying to cut away the insulation of the individual conductors of a COS11 before soldering. which is probably entirely down to not having a proper insulation cutter, and instead using a blade and carefully trying to only cut the insulation. what i have been doing for many years instead, is getting a blob of solder onto the tip of the iron, and pushing the wire through that to burn away the insulation and tin the wire. the trick is to not take too long otherwise you will burn it, and the conductor inside will fall off. it takes a bit of practice, but if you are confident with a soldering iron, and have the right shaped tip for the iron (i think i have a 2.3mm chisel tip) this will work.

might not be made by Lemo then. perhaps a copy instead.

just making sure you dont make the mistake i once made.

with that kind of thing, i wouldnt guess. if there is a part number, Lemo will be able to tell you what it is. places like Mouser charge quite a big mark up on Lemo, compared to what getting direct from Lemo would cost. but you need to hit the minimum order value. also, im not sure if anything you order from Mouser is warehoused outside the US. i think that stuff i have ordered from them in the past has shipped from the states. but its entirely possible i am wrong about this, but could explain the €20 shipping. the last letter of the first 3 (FSB, FHG...) denotes the keying (number of notches on the outside of the connector, which need to match with what you are plugging into) if you look on the outside of the shell, you should be able to see the part number etched into it most power connectors i have encountered are G keying https://www.lemo.com/pdf/FSG.0B.302.CLAD32.pdf here is what i could find of the angled B keying as an example https://www.lemo.com/pdf/FSB.0B.304.CLAD52Z.pdf the FSG connectors are about 5 times more expensive than the straight connectors

you should be able to buy, if not the individual pin, then the insert the pins are part of. (i have done so from Lemo UK in the past) try contacting Lemo directly https://www.lemo.com/en/contact though they may have a minimum order amount.

i think that the lower the squelch value, the lower the signal present has to be in order for the receiver to unmute. i am on the minimum setting with mine. if its too high the audio can get choppy at the edge of range, but not necessarily prevent the pops, splats and hiss you also get.

the mono and stereo pilot tone is different. (i dont know about the pilot tone between the 100, 300 and 500, but i would guess it doesnt change there) my cart rig i have two of the half rack transmitters, which i use in mono mode. i'll have to double check tomorrow, but i believe that in order to get it to work, i have to have pilot tone turned off on the receivers. i use it that way, so that if i have to use my bag rig with the SK100 tx, i dont need to change any settings on all the receivers that may have been handed out.

you're welcome. most of the common mics we use have a similar EQ curve to create that effect.

i used to have a KMR81 way way back when (it was my first shotgun mic) when i had a CMIT as well, they sounded tonally almost exactly the same (supposedly, the KMR81 was what schoeps were aiming for with the sound of their shotgun mic) but has a bit less rejection of off axis sound. it could also be a little susceptible to RFi. i dont recall if i ever used it with the Zaxcom TRX700 i had as my ownership of the two may not have been at the same time, but it did get caught out by some fluorescent lights at one particular location. i think the KMR81 will sound great pretty much anywhere you'd care to use it, unless your location is very noisy.

it isnt soldered. its two bare ends (i probably tinned them) screwed into the green connector on the side. its not ideal for sure, but hasnt failed yet.

it does look the same. it has a green connector on the side that you screw the bare ends of your power cable into. i did have a look, and didnt think there was enough space inside so that i could fit a Hirose socket.

i have one of these on my cart https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B09HGWLZSD/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1W5E1W8ZX0BD7&psc=1&fbclid=IwAR0LHrzK-G1KD2tHbrS1OqQa0_fxPQ6FxeXnht42-x19PGm7VgYv9kQM0ws though i am sure you can find it on the Belgian Amazon site. i have had no issues with it so far. powers my Glensound speaker and I/O boxes just fine. but, i have had it connected after my A10 racks (Scorpio » A10 rack » A10 rack » linovision router » anything else that needs Dante) rather than have it as the hub that everything else is connected to.

i am guessing that if the camera base rate is 25fps, then 50 fps goes at double speed. i dont know the camera settings well enough to know wether it is possible to set its base rate to 50fps, so that on playback 50 frames takes 1 second, which i am thinking is what you are talking about. i do not understand why. that is well beyond my knowledge level, and what i am prepared to try and understand. i wonder if projects like the Hobbit, which they filmed at 48fps hadnt looked so odd to moviegoers, the situation might be different, and there would have been more urgency to develop a new SMPTE standard for the higher framrates.

ok then. is there a camera that when set to 50fps that will allow incoming timecode to see if those settings on the betso will work? what is the difference between the 2x multiplied rate of the betso at 25fps and 50fps? does it behave like an Alexa mini when you put it to 50fps, and the timecode runs twice as fast?